As title, bought a 100 series style fusible link. Looking at swapping it over. I've seen it done (On here) but just after some advice on a easy install method to wire it in. Cheers
100 Series fusible link upgrade. 1hdft 80 Series (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter JACOBnzl
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Ended up figuring it out. Pretty simple. Will get another for passenger side and re do the accessory's
For future people looking to do the swap/upgrade. Basically the fuses you can see are the same amp as the original fusible link wire. So cut the double grey plug off and crimped eye terminals and the main fusible link just unbolted from junction box. Simple as took 15 minutes. Cost $56nzd for the 100 series fusible link block. $30 odd on bolts, fusible link fuses and a pack of eye terminals
For future people looking to do the swap/upgrade. Basically the fuses you can see are the same amp as the original fusible link wire. So cut the double grey plug off and crimped eye terminals and the main fusible link just unbolted from junction box. Simple as took 15 minutes. Cost $56nzd for the 100 series fusible link block. $30 odd on bolts, fusible link fuses and a pack of eye terminals
That may be the most elegant solution I've seen to get rid of the OEM wire link. Not that the original solution doesn't work, but it always seems a little delicate and exposed for something that can so easily disable your rig. I like the idea of fuses in a fuse box, and I also like the idea of using a Toyota part.
Cool solution using OEM parts from the newer model. I might be wrong but I think there is also an additional cover on the 100 series to insulate those exposed cable lugs? https://partsouq.com/shop/product/8262160010-toyota-cover-fusible-link/13998520
If that part is NLA I'd try to find another solution to cover them up as you don't want those high power terminals exposed.
If that part is NLA I'd try to find another solution to cover them up as you don't want those high power terminals exposed.
They make heavy duty shrink tube big enough that you could bundle all the wires together installed and shrink the whole thing together... or you could 3d print something out of a high temp filament.
there may be more then one part number for the fuse box, I'm not sure but the one that i used the buss bars were such that the bottom fuse in the box (j/b no 2) you would have to attach your eyelet to the other side of the fuse opposite of whats in your picture in order for your circuit to be protected. you would think they would all be on the same side but they aren't.
