Could you post a more detailed description of what parts need to be disconnected in order to safely drive in 2wd, stuck on top of a mountain currently and need to get home.
100 Series Front Diff Failure - Random Chat (1 Viewer)
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Could you post a more detailed description of what parts need to be disconnected in order to safely drive in 2wd, stuck on top of a mountain currently and need to get home.
I know this is old....but you can just pull the drive flanges and in many cases drive slowly (CDL locked) to a spot where a repair could be made.
For clarity's sake, unrelated to a front diff failure... does the CDL have to be engaged with front shaft removed and or rear drive shaft removed?
Asking because I am chasing a drivetrain vibration and will shortly be removing front/rear driveshaft to diagnose.
Asking because I am chasing a drivetrain vibration and will shortly be removing front/rear driveshaft to diagnose.
Yes, otherwise all power will bias to the output of the Tcase with the least resistance. Locking the CD (Center Diff) forces the Tcase to send equal amounts of power to the front and rear outputs.
Gotcha, so whether I have the front shaft or rear shaft removed the CDL needs to be engaged.
TY sir.Affirmative.
Kurt, just noticed this thread, my front diff episode in 2013 is well documented in this other post.
Stock front 4 pinion diff, how strong -> video - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stock-front-4-pinion-diff-how-strong-video.736305/#post-8531522
You were there so you know some of the details, but the video is a good reminder of how it happened.
It was just the R&P that took the damage, spiders were fine.
Stock front 4 pinion diff, how strong -> video - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stock-front-4-pinion-diff-how-strong-video.736305/#post-8531522
You were there so you know some of the details, but the video is a good reminder of how it happened.
It was just the R&P that took the damage, spiders were fine.
I have wondered about that. When you remove the hub flanges, the bearings and grease inside become exposed to all the crap and water.
Some folks keep an old set of flanges (splines removed) to put back in place (along with dust caps) for just that reason.
I found the bottom of a Gatoraid bottle and some duct tape kept everything clean.
I’m curious if it would help avoid front diff failure if you do not locking the center diff. The thinking here is if the center diff is rear biased when in LSD mode, then less (but not zero) power to the front is a good thing.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
I believe that the flaw in this logic, is that unlocked, the 100 series center diff is an open diff (no LSD or rear bias).
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I think that is a 'mostly' sound theory. With the center diff unlocked power is free to follow the path of least resistance. I would argue that a 'bias' exists to the rear in all situations but weight distribution and other factors might result in that. IF so....then logic dictates less power to front means less stress on the components (for as long as that lasts).
But it remains that a single tire spinning up front could easily be the 'path' the power seeks and IF that wheel suddenly gets traction....the front diff is going to feel it.
I believe in most cases a locked center diff allows for a more controlled attempt at forward movement and 'judicious' use of the skinny pedal is your best bet.
Thanks. Both make sense. I was apparently mistakenly thinking the 100 had a Torsten LSD center diff like my 4Runner.
Left foot braking to reduce lifted wheel spin while clearing obstacles will help alleviate drivetrain shock. Not a guarantee to keep from chernoybling your front diff but a helpful technique to control free spin and the potential negative side effects of abrupt contact.
So what happens if you only pull the front driveshaft, and not the hub flanges too?
I may have just done this, and then drove 100 miles home…..
I may have just done this, and then drove 100 miles home…..
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You blend everything in that diff into a nice puree
Sounds like I’ll be giving you guys a call tomorrow morning…
