ethanol content?
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100 Caught fire & gas tank venting concerns (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Skidoo
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Buc-ees has ethanol-free at a number of their locations around Texas, including in New Braunfels. I haven't tried it yet, but I will if it gives better mpg.
Now that winter is coming to an end I added a heat shield near both cats along with shield tubing over some of the lines.
Note the rusty rear AC line towards the top of this photo:
I also added additional heat shield tubing to some of the most vulnerable lines. On the passenger side the rear AC line runs by really close and mine was pretty rusty where it came closest. I cleaned it and hit it with some rust converting paint before shielding it. Others report that their rear AC line rusts completely through in this spot which causes it to leak and fail and it's expensive and hard to replace. When the AC is running this pipe becomes ice cold and then as soon as it cycles off the pipe immediately starts getting heated up by the cat and then it gets cold etc etc. This heat cycling definitely would cause corrosion to happen at a higher rate so this is a problem spot for long term AC reliability. Some of the AHC lines also run by there which probably don't mind being shielded either, although they do have a factory shield coating.
I used this aluminum heat shield tubing which is great for this type of thing and comes in different sizes and colors: https://amzn.to/2IHkSZP It's really simple to slide over the pipe and you can fasten with zip ties or whatever. I chose to use a bit of wire.
On the driver's side I shielded the supply and return fuel lines where they come closest to the exhaust manifold. The brake lines already have insulation but the fuel lines do not.
Note the rusty rear AC line towards the top of this photo:
I also added additional heat shield tubing to some of the most vulnerable lines. On the passenger side the rear AC line runs by really close and mine was pretty rusty where it came closest. I cleaned it and hit it with some rust converting paint before shielding it. Others report that their rear AC line rusts completely through in this spot which causes it to leak and fail and it's expensive and hard to replace. When the AC is running this pipe becomes ice cold and then as soon as it cycles off the pipe immediately starts getting heated up by the cat and then it gets cold etc etc. This heat cycling definitely would cause corrosion to happen at a higher rate so this is a problem spot for long term AC reliability. Some of the AHC lines also run by there which probably don't mind being shielded either, although they do have a factory shield coating.
I used this aluminum heat shield tubing which is great for this type of thing and comes in different sizes and colors: https://amzn.to/2IHkSZP It's really simple to slide over the pipe and you can fasten with zip ties or whatever. I chose to use a bit of wire.
On the driver's side I shielded the supply and return fuel lines where they come closest to the exhaust manifold. The brake lines already have insulation but the fuel lines do not.
I want to do this too. Experience some heavy venting & boiled over to the extent it melted my paint outside the fuel cap area.
What kind of metal did you use for the shield & do you just drill a hole in the frame?
So on the DS you shielded the AC line?
And on the PS side how can I tell which are the fuel lines. Sorry if that's a stupid question but I'm looking and cant tell.
What kind of metal did you use for the shield & do you just drill a hole in the frame?
So on the DS you shielded the AC line?
And on the PS side how can I tell which are the fuel lines. Sorry if that's a stupid question but I'm looking and cant tell.
I just had some sheet stainless steel remnants that I used. I drilled into the stock heatshield and used a couple bolts. Others have used rivets. It's really simple once you look at it. @1meancruiser has some better photos in his post here: 100 Caught fire & gas tank venting concerns
@craignmongolia see here.
You are correct.
2006 LC100 with the vapor lock and/or engine shut-off in high heat and/or gas smell not inside truck but noticeable once parked in garage. Has happened 4 times to me over 5 years. I still have the issue after replacing gas cap and replacing fuel pump. Next up is replacing the fuel filter (after 230k miles probably time anyway) then the charcoal vapor canister which will be $615 for my rig. Headed to HIHX in July...hopefully the event will still happen...and really don't want to deal with this issue any longer. I will look for ethanol free fuel while up there too. Also, according to the Toyota TSB I saw posted on this thread way back, my VIN# was produced before the production change effective VIN so even though I have had no codes thrown directly related, it appears that my vapor canister is the "bad" one.
If you do a little research, it is possible to repack the vapor canister with activated carbon charcoal meant for a fish tank. You can reach out to J1000 who completed this recently.
What have you done to your rig today?
Foot forward mounting of the new winch. Remotely mounted control box and indexed free spool lever for better access. Nice view of the spool. Thanks for the advice from Jeff Mendocino and Adam On the rx!
risingsun4x4club.org
Okay, I have a 2005, guessing same rear canister, replaced it for half the cost,OEM toyota, takes 15 min to do...long story short, still boiled at alt, my belief is it is the ethenol. There is non ethanol gas available in Silverton....either way don't fill up past 3/4 and you should be ok.
Isn't it also the 06-07 that seems to be the worst offender for this issue? The 3/4 tank solution seems to solve the issue for most people. This isn't an issue with HIH because a high mileage trail day is less than 50 miles.
Sorry, I should have been more clear.....my best guess is that no matter what you do, ethenol is the culprit....plenty of discussion on this.
Yes I rebuilt my charcoal canister and my MPG went from 12 to 15 immediately and no more gas smell after normal driving. Worst part was the hoses, 3 of my MPG were just being evaporated into the air. Rebuild here:
forum.ih8mud.com
Did not solve my problem totally. Went offroading above 10k ft and had my gas tank boil again. This time, though, fuel started coming out of my gas cap. I replaced it with a new OEM one after that. By fixing the leaks in my charcoal can I just moved the leaks elsewhere.
Hopefully will be wheeling again above 10k feet this weekend and hopefully no more fuel boiling! Doesn't boil in town only at high elevation. Hopefully new gas cap = maintain pressure in tank = no more boiling.
Yes, sure. Go ahead and blame ethanol when there are literally hoses falling apart and old seals leaking vapors.
100 Series Charcoal Canister Replacement
I thought the two variants were drastically different shapes and that it wouldn't work - but if it does, post some pics :)
forum.ih8mud.com
Did not solve my problem totally. Went offroading above 10k ft and had my gas tank boil again. This time, though, fuel started coming out of my gas cap. I replaced it with a new OEM one after that. By fixing the leaks in my charcoal can I just moved the leaks elsewhere.
Hopefully will be wheeling again above 10k feet this weekend and hopefully no more fuel boiling! Doesn't boil in town only at high elevation. Hopefully new gas cap = maintain pressure in tank = no more boiling.
Yes, sure. Go ahead and blame ethanol when there are literally hoses falling apart and old seals leaking vapors.
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I am struggling STILL on my end after hitting trails first time this last week. I will say it seems to take longer to vent but it still happened, one day was bad you could hear the "boil" happening in the tank.Yes I rebuilt my charcoal canister and my MPG went from 12 to 15 immediately and no more gas smell after normal driving. Worst part was the hoses, 3 of my MPG were just being evaporated into the air. Rebuild here:
100 Series Charcoal Canister Replacement
I thought the two variants were drastically different shapes and that it wouldn't work - but if it does, post some pics :)
Did not solve my problem totally. Went offroading above 10k ft and had my gas tank boil again. This time, though, fuel started coming out of my gas cap. I replaced it with a new OEM one after that. By fixing the leaks in my charcoal can I just moved the leaks elsewhere.
Hopefully will be wheeling again above 10k feet this weekend and hopefully no more fuel boiling! Doesn't boil in town only at high elevation. Hopefully new gas cap = maintain pressure in tank = no more boiling.
Yes, sure. Go ahead and blame ethanol when there are literally hoses falling apart and old seals leaking vapors.
So far I have replaced (I think in the order over the past year and looking at this list I'm half embarrassed ive put this much time/energy/money with the problem still there!!):
Charcoal canister
Vsv valve
ECT
Fuel tank, camp, filler neck
Fuel pump
passenger side catalytic converter
All 4 O2 sensors
Water pump/timing belt (unrelated I think but it was due nonetheless)
Fuel filter
I did have evap hoses tested at one point in there too and they were allegedly ok as well.
So my only next stop is a new driver's side cat,l or muffler and overall exhaust system inspection for any pinholes and then maybe going down heat shield route. But I have a feeling hear shield is a band aid for something being hotter than it should be in the first place.
The maddening part is the car runs like a top otherwise, I get decent mpg considering the vehicle, lift and running 33s, engine doesnt leak/burn a drop of full synthetic at nearly 198k miles. Really wish I could figure this out!!!
Yeah it is annoying as heck. I am even considering a fuel cooler usually used on diesel vehicles like this one: https://amzn.to/2Un8d4z plumbed into the return line with an electric fan.
The return fuel line also goes right along the top rear of the engine before it starts going under the car. I plan to add shielding to that line and possible the fuel rails themselves during any future intake manifold area maintenance. The fuel just has so many opportunities to pick up heat on the way back to the tank so my goal is to minimize as many as possible.
The return fuel line also goes right along the top rear of the engine before it starts going under the car. I plan to add shielding to that line and possible the fuel rails themselves during any future intake manifold area maintenance. The fuel just has so many opportunities to pick up heat on the way back to the tank so my goal is to minimize as many as possible.
Yeah I noticed your comments and others on that, it is an intriguing idea to wrap that line. I just never overheat per my thermostat and even reading via bleudriver app/OBD tool while driving. Plus how michnfuel really retuns to.the tank in these thing with how they burn fuel LOL!?!? I think it's an exhaust temperature thing. I have a feeling we all have more pinholes in our exhaust systems than we think on 17+ year old truck that have been running trails and everything else.
Wow! That is quite the list! In addition to the items I replaced and plan on replacing as I mentioned in my recent post, I also had both catalytic converters replaced in 2014. Now that was expensive...used OEM replacements. I am hopeful the $625 vapor charcoal canister I just ordered will at least help with the fuel smell on a hot day driving around town. I decided to go with the new canister rather than refill since the canister for my year also includes the valves so rather than piecemeal it just yank the whole thing and replace.
I'm in that camp. Last year, I used the 100% gas from the little red station in Silverton. Absolutely zero boil the entire time I was up there. Went back up to Salida a month later and was using the typical ethanol blends found everywhere and was getting boil around 10k in altitude.
