Are P1 and B1 located inside the truck or outside, down by the main wiring harness that runs by the EGR pipe?
10 amp gauge fuse keeps blowing (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BOZ
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Yes, I am learning how to use it. I am no good at this, admittedly, but I am trying to teach myself. I just paid someone $105/hr for 5 five hours and they didn't get anywhere either, but I ended up only paying for 3 hours because I don't think the guy followed my instructions to go about this systematically. I am now trying to figure out how to do that and I could use a hand if anyone is good with reading these things. I have a test light and a multi-meter, but those feel dangerous in my hands because I am not certain I am using them correctly.
It'll take practice but the multimeter and test light will make more sense as you use them. There's not much you can hurt with either unless you have the multimeter set to measure amperage (its possible to cause shorts/sparks if you use it incorrectly in this mode, although most meters have a built in fuse). I bet there are several youtube videos out there on how to properly use a multimeter, check out one before proceeding.
In the FSM there are pages that describe the locations of where harnesses connect to each other and then a following page showing what those connectors look like. I have a pdf copy of the 94' FSM and 96' FSM and use both to figure things out. The 96' version is more detailed but not 100% applicable to the 94'.
In my case I was looking at EC1 and EC2 which are in the engine compartment near the starter. I'd recommend going through each of the sub harnesses that contain circuits fed by the fuse that keeps blowing (this info is also found in the FSM). Disconnect a harness, see if the fuse blows when turning the key on and once you find one that you can turn the key on without blowing the fuse (while the harness is disconnected) you can start narrowing things down from there.
Even if you hire out the actual repair finding the issue yourself will save you a lot of money since troubleshooting is the time consuming part (as you are finding out). In my case I was about to test the vehicle speed sensor (for the speedometer) and the first thing the FSM asked me to do was apply 12V power between two terminals. Before doing that I checked for continuity between the terminals and there is was, these terminals were shorted together somewhere inside the sensor (continuity was there - meaning no or very little resistance). If I would have applied power to the bad sensor (with a fuse) the fuse would have blown (as it did for me on the cruiser).
In the FSM there are pages that describe the locations of where harnesses connect to each other and then a following page showing what those connectors look like. I have a pdf copy of the 94' FSM and 96' FSM and use both to figure things out. The 96' version is more detailed but not 100% applicable to the 94'.
In my case I was looking at EC1 and EC2 which are in the engine compartment near the starter. I'd recommend going through each of the sub harnesses that contain circuits fed by the fuse that keeps blowing (this info is also found in the FSM). Disconnect a harness, see if the fuse blows when turning the key on and once you find one that you can turn the key on without blowing the fuse (while the harness is disconnected) you can start narrowing things down from there.
Even if you hire out the actual repair finding the issue yourself will save you a lot of money since troubleshooting is the time consuming part (as you are finding out). In my case I was about to test the vehicle speed sensor (for the speedometer) and the first thing the FSM asked me to do was apply 12V power between two terminals. Before doing that I checked for continuity between the terminals and there is was, these terminals were shorted together somewhere inside the sensor (continuity was there - meaning no or very little resistance). If I would have applied power to the bad sensor (with a fuse) the fuse would have blown (as it did for me on the cruiser).
Are P1 and B1 the same as EC1 and EC2? That is confusing. Why do they change what things are called in the manual
They are not the same as EC1 and EC2.
P1 = Park/Neutral position switch
B1 = Back up light / AT indicator switch
P1 = Park/Neutral position switch
B1 = Back up light / AT indicator switch
OK, thanks for clarifying that. They looked like they were calling out the same place. I will take a look in those areas and see where I end up.
Problem solved.... replaced the vehicle speed sensor for the speedometer and no more blown fuses. While I was under there I changed out the transfer case fluid for good measure.
Mid 20's outside, not warm but also not too bad compared to the 20 below we had the other night.
Mid 20's outside, not warm but also not too bad compared to the 20 below we had the other night.
I may have solved mine too. I tried moving the wires around where EC1 and EC2 go through the firewall and I can't get it to blow now. I just drove it further than I ever have without it blowing. There may be something funky going on in one of the harness clips, but I could get it to pop just by wiggling them and now it won't do that. It could have just been a loose connection. At least I know where to start if I need to get into it further. I am not sure how one can un-clip those harnesses without taking something off, but I was able to squeeze them together by pulling the tranny dipstick.
Fingers crossed.
Fingers crossed.
I also wanted to thank you guys. I think with what you guys mentioned here, I was able to locate my issue, which is more than I can say about the several other people that have tried to figure this out over the years. I am certain it's in one of the wires or connections where these junctions go through the wall. It makes sense too, plenty of salty crap water has been blasted on to them for 20 years. I am not going to pull it apart unless I need to, but I will have to plan for taking at least the brake booster off before I attempt to rebuild the harness clips or splice a wire.
I am not sure if I should plan on trying to rebuild the old clip, or make a new one. I may leave that to someone with more skill than I have. As Zack said, trouble shooting is a big part of it.
I am not sure if I should plan on trying to rebuild the old clip, or make a new one. I may leave that to someone with more skill than I have. As Zack said, trouble shooting is a big part of it.
This thread helped me out. Thank you! My short would happen always in park and or shift to park. Well I could not find the short, so i had to start changing parts. the transmission wiring harness plug and neutral saftey switch had shorted and fused. The back side of the switch had a hole in it. Had to break the plug to get it off. Probably the cause of the short. Right now I am just figuring out what to do, change the harness or just change the plug, it won't be hard either way, just have to wait for the parts. Best of luck.
I am now about to dig in to this as well. I have tracked the pattern down to 2 possible things.
1) It seems to blow as soon as I switch the transfer case to 4-Low.
2) It also seems to blow when the rear locker gets locked in either 4-Low or 4-High.
Any recommendations before I re-read the previous thread entries and pull harnesses would be much appreciated!
1) It seems to blow as soon as I switch the transfer case to 4-Low.
2) It also seems to blow when the rear locker gets locked in either 4-Low or 4-High.
Any recommendations before I re-read the previous thread entries and pull harnesses would be much appreciated!
Just try flexing those EC1 and EC2 fittings or maybe even see if you can separate them before you yank it all out. So many things run through those and trying to at least figure out if it's blowing before or after the firewall is very, very helpful.
AFTER THREE MECHANICS AND DOZENS OF FUSES, IT WAS THE IGNITION SWITCH ON MY 01 RAV4!!!!!!!!!!! HOPE THIS HELPS!!!!!!!!!!
