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Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by BOZ, Feb 1, 2007.
Any idea why my 10amp Gauge fuse keeps blowing. I have replace 3 in the past year .
Which 10 amp fuse? Just a little more information would be helpful. Not saying I can help you, but the more information provided the better for someone who can help.
As posted "Gauge" fuse. runs all the switches and guages.
Sounds like the little problem I have. #10 in the center second one down?
This fuse also supplys power to yor window relay. Mind tends to blow when switching betwen forward and reverse only when off road and more often with CDL in low range. Originaly thought it was my trailer wiring but ruled this out when I ripped the wiring out. On occasion a nasty trail bump has also blown this fuse.
My gut tells me that there is probably a short in the rear passenger back up/brake light system as this seems to be the common denomiter.
Good luck and carry extra fuses
When does it blow? Is there a pattern?
At one time I had 50 watt hallogen backup bulbs and those things would pop my gauge fuse about every two months. Maybe there is a problem in your back-up circuit?
I have ripped out the trailer harness and the (Number 7) 10 amp fuse still blows, added ground wires and still...now normally this happens when in locked CDL low and reverse, but twice driving in forward high range after a jarring bump caused by the hitch catching solid rock This leads me to think that the system is shorting via the frame or body, but where.
My guess again is the right rear???
Of course I carry extra fuses and may add a 10amp breaker until the culprit is rooted out.
Another thing, would a short cause Low reverse to cut out at higher rpm's? this is a new gremlin.
A lttle background on the problem I had: I was driving down the road here in Tucson with the A/C on. It was about 100 degrees outside and all of a sudden the A/C shut off and the gauges in the dash stopped working. After replacing the fuse, everthing was fine until i turned the A/C compressor back on, the fuse blew again. It only happend when I turned the A/C comprssor on, not the blower fan, heater, rear heat, or anything else on the heat/A/C control panel. So, I took a Toyota wiring schematic for the gauge circut and began testing things on the circut. At first, all indications pointed to the A/C cut relay behind the main engine computer. After I replaced that, the problem continued. So, I took the test further and now determined that the clutch on the compressor is the culprit. It was pulling about 20 amps and i THINK it is supposed to pull about 5 or 6. But, while i was there i found that the compressor is aftermarket anyway and Toyota sells the clutch and the compressor as one piece for the 1FZ .
I hope my living without A/C in Tucson for the past 2 weeks without A/C could maybe help you identify a problem quicker.
This may help:
There is a lot of stuff hooked up to fuse #7, the GAUGE fuse. Time to do some isolation trouble shooting.
I seem to have just acquired a similar problem. I've gone through six fuses today alone. It seems to blow either after a while while driving in high range, but almost instantly while reversing. At first I thought it was my recently installed GPS that I tapped into the ignition switch, but I rerouted it to the power outlet in under the hood and I've just gone through two more fuses trying it out since then.
Have you added anything to the back up lamp circuit or increased the wattage of the backp bulbs?
The previous owner installed a hitch and trailer brake light control thing. I'll see if I can pull that out and try again. thx.
My gauge fuse started to blow repeatedly so after searching the 80 forum, I came across this thread. Sure enough, I had replaced the backup bulb with higher wattage units a while back. Put the 1156s back in and problem solved.
Thanks cdan I was dreading the prospect of troubleshooting all the circuits that are on the gauge fuse, trying to locate an intermittent problem.
The interesting thing is that I had replaced the bulbs with the higher wattage units several months ago and had no problems until this past week.
Any quick pointers on the guage fuse? I'm out and about and after driving through deep slushy wet snow and water my guage fuse blew. I tried another fuse and it blew right away. Cruiser still starts and runs fine but the guages and heater fan are down.
I would look at the trailer harness wiring. Usually just ahead of right tail lamp fixture. Mine shorted out up inside the rear quarter..
If it blows when the motor is loaded, check the motor harness where it goes by the EGR pipe. If the two are making contact, can blow the gauge fuse.
The fuse blows before the engine starts. With a new fuse as soon as I turn the key I see the voltage guage jump up briefly then it's all offline by the time the starter kicks over. Tomorrow I'll break out the wiring diagrams and multimeter and see what the deal is.
I have to give the cruiser credit where its due. Even with a short somewhere in the gauge circuit it still brought us home through a snow/sleet storm in the dark. None of the gauges were working but I trusted the systems were fine. Its amazing how many things are connected to that gauge circuit; heater fan, all gauges, radio antenna, overdrive switch, reverse lights, the list goes on and on.... You have no fuel readings, no odo to compute range, no speedo or rpm to compute actual speed.....
Having the rear heater fan on a separate circuit saved the day. Without the rear heat the windows would have been fogged and since the power windows are inop (also connected to this circuit) there's not many options to defog during snow and rain.
There's more but I can only upload 5...
I have a bad gremlin. I am thinking about taking it back to a shop that has been chasing the unicorn for years for the PO.
I do have some notes that I think are worth mentioning.
1) It seems to be triggered by using the trans. It will sit and idle with everything on for hours, but as soon as you shift, it all goes dead.
2) Wiggling the wires under the steering wheel helps. There appears to be a connection to this wire that go to the trans.
Has anyone actually solved this problem?
I don't have anything to help but I commend you for your detailed flow chart approach. Seriously. Very methodical.
I think these pages are from the Factory Wiring Diagram.