1/4 Panel patch with limited tools

[Toyrod]

This is a thread on how to make your own 1/4 panel patches with minimal tools. I work out of my garage and have limited space. I'm a cheap a@# and would rather spend my money on the project than tools.

The first shot is making the template for the patch piece. I use cereal boxes because it has the right flexibility to shape into whatever you need. You will also notice that I cut big chunks out of the quarter. This is to avoid having 2 linear welds that will put a lot more heat into your metal. It is easier to control distortion by minimizing weld time.

 

[Toyrod]

Template to metal transfer

This is a shot of the metal cut out based on the template. I use cold rolled steel because it is softer than hot rolled and easier to shape. I use a jigsaw to cut it out, using the square part of the sheet metal to keep my patch panel straight.

 

[Toyrod]

Rolling the metal

This is how you can roll the metal with a pipe and a hammer. I use a piece of carpet under the metal for some give. The red lines on the metal are to help keep the pipe square with the metal so that the radius will be consistent. I take a BFH and smack the pipe, moving about 1/4 inch at a time across the metal. This will begin to slowly roll the metal.

 

[alex e]

Way to leave us hanging.......

 

[Toyrod]

Matching radius to 1/4 panel

I check my progress against the 1/4 panel regularly to make sure it matches.

 

[Toyrod]

Radius matched

Radius matched and complete.

 

[Toyrod]

Setting up the sill bend

This is the setup for the bend under the rear sill. Two pieces of plate, 1/4 inch or thicker.

 

[Toyrod]

Making the bend

Tap lightly with a small hammer, working along the entire length of the bend.

 

[Toyrod]

Finished bend

This is what the bend should look like.

 

[Toyrod]

Bending the curve

Making a bend on the curve involves a bunch of small cuts that will be welded later. I like to go about 1/2 inch wide because that is the width of some flat nosed pliers that I found in a parts car. Just bend them up at 90 degrees. The inside bend will need to have some pie shaped cuts to avoid overlap when you bend them.

 

[Toyrod]

Checking the curve

Check your curve against the taillight or original piece that you cut out of the 1/4 panel.

 

[Toyrod]

Weld the curve cuts

Weld the curve cuts with your wire feed.

 

[Toyrod]

Grind it smoothe

Carefully grind your welds down and smooth it out.

 

[Toyrod]

Scribing the final cut on the 1/4

I try to make the patch panel about 1/4 inch larger than the rough hole that I cut out of the 1/4 panel. I ended up almost making this one too small. You need to remove as much of the piece that you are replacing so you can fit the new piece accurately. Line it up and scribe the 1/4 panel.

 

[Toyrod]

Final cut

Make the final cut with a cut off saw. I have used a jigsaw with a fine blade to make the final cut before I splurged and spent $150 on a used air compressor and a die grinder.

 

[Toyrod]

Tacked in place

This is the final patch tacked in place.

 

[Toyrod]

I have patched a bunch of rust holes in Landcruisers over the years and here is all I know about controlling distortion on sheet metal. First, use a series of the smallest tack weld you can do. Spread them out and don't let the metal get too hot. Keep tacking back and forth on your patch until you have about 1/2 inch between them. When doing rear quarter patches, I usually tack them both in at the same time so I can be welding on one while the other cools. Next, weld about 1/2 inch max at a time. As quick as you can, back the weld up with a dolly and tap the weld with a hammer until the face of the weld has a slight flat spot from the hammer. This counters the shrinking that the welding causes. You can do 2-3 spots on the same quarter like this, then let it cool to a point that you can touch it before you weld anymore. It should take you an hour to weld up a patch the size that I did. Last, when grinding, don't get too agressive. Grinding can put a lot of heat into the quarter panel. I trashed a repair job once because I got a little carried away with grinding.

Good luck!!!

 

[Pin_Head]

I have about 10 sq. ft. of sheet metal patched into my cruiser just like this. Works great and it is cheap.

 

[Toyrod]

Welded in and ground down

Ready for a little filler and paint.

 

[Toyrod]

I have about 10 sq. ft. of sheet metal patched into my cruiser just like this. Works great and it is cheap.

I built a complete set of skins for my 64 FJ45 SWB with the same techniques. I used 3/4 inch high density plywood and matched the wheel well openings.

I have another set of photos from that build. The only thing I was able to salvage off of the original bed was the top 2 inches of the rail and the tailgate.