Builds 02/75 fj40 restoration

[LSUfj]

got all the pistons out of the 2f. A few rings were broken, but bearings all look great. Interesting that some of the caps have a cast number that doesn’t correspond to the cylinder. I marked each cap/rod with a punch and paint just to be sure they were kept in order. You can see some of the vast numbers on the caps.

 

[LSUfj]

I ordered some hastings rings and plan to just hone and reassemble. Cylinders and piston measurements checked out. But, should I go ahead and put in new main and rod bearings? They seem good. My only concern with new is introducing some error.

 

[Rochfort]

I ordered some hastings rings and plan to just hone and reassemble. Cylinders and piston measurements checked out. But, should I go ahead and put in new main and rod bearings? They seem good. My only concern with new is introducing some error.

Slightly offtopic but how is the crankcase? Any noise from the bottom end?

 

[LSUfj]

Slightly offtopic but how is the crankcase? Any noise from the bottom end?

No. This engine ran fine when I pulled it years ago to start the frame off. It was filthy, probably from miscellaneous oil leaks, but it ran. The intake manifold was cracked, but other than that, no known issues.

I’ll post a photo of the cam later. It’s the only thing on the short block that doesn’t look great (and has a lobe out of spec).

 

[Grayscale]

The crank, depending on its condition, will be as important in determining how to move forward. I'd probably not introduce a new main bearing with a tired crank. It either need fixing or just reassembly. Lapped valves, new rings sets, honed cylinders - that is probably all that the home-builder can effectively seal up.

Ensuring Bearing Life: Crankshaft Bearings Are Always Replaced When Rebuilding An Engine - Engine Builder Magazine

Ensure engine longevity with proper crankshaft bearing replacement. Learn causes of failure & material options for a reliable rebuild.

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Not sure about the camshaft, but, I think that the lifters might need a regrind?

 

[pb4ugo]

If your planning to hone and reassemble I'd strip down the blk, make your mess and throughly clean and inspect all the components and correct anything suspect.

 

[LSUfj]

Block is headed to the machine shop. Bearings look pretty good, but will go ahead and get everything checked and replaced. Just hoping block doesn’t need boring.

 

[LSUfj]

Update - block had to be bored .040, found some domed pistons, crank got machined for 010 undersized rod and main bearings. Head is good and is getting a valve job. The OEM valve seals won’t fit the valve guides though. Can anyone confirm that these valve guides do not look OEM? I’m thinking not based on the long taper, which is preventing the seal from fitting onto the larger OD section of the guide.

 

[Grayscale]

A '75 head uses a different style of valve guide and valve stem seal. Umbrella or deflector-type seals up until about '76. You can use the metal positive-type stem seal, it just can't be pressed on the valve guide.

 

[Rochfort]

Update - block had to be bored .040, found some domed pistons, crank got machined for 010 undersized rod and main bearings. Head is good and is getting a valve job. The OEM valve seals won’t fit the valve guides though. Can anyone confirm that these valve guides do not look OEM? I’m thinking not based on the long taper, which is preventing the seal from fitting onto the larger OD section of the guide.

View attachment 3855197

View attachment 3855199

...are you onto the fuel system yet, carb and fuel pump? Or are you putting in EFI?
.

 

[LSUfj]

A '75 head uses a different style of valve guide and valve stem seal. Umbrella or deflector-type seals up until about '76. You can use the metal positive-type stem seal, it just can't be pressed on the valve guide.

I reached out to Cruiser Outfitters for their thoughts. There’s another post where Kurt shared the photo below of the different seals that are available. I have the one in the bottom right. Do you think I need the one on top right? It looks taller. If valves guides aren’t OEM, though, I’d prefer just to replace those.

 

[LSUfj]

...are you onto the fuel system yet, carb and fuel pump? Or are you putting in EFI?
.

Not yet. Still have the OEM carburetor, but thinking hard about adding a sniper. Focus now is engine reassembly. I have to clean up some manifolds and get the head/valve seal issue sorted. One thing at a time.

 

[LSUfj]

Block is back home. Will get to reassembly next weekend. Still need to figure out the valve seals. I’m leaning toward replacing the guides.

 

[ranchdawg]

So I just did this last year. They took out seal 90913-02030 and replaced with a seal, part #35-802V. Head isn’t installed yet, but the shop (Yota-1) was recommended to me by Valley Hybrids.

 

[LSUfj]

Valve seals sorted out thanks to the crew @cruiseroutfit. Just had the later model seals which don’t fit the head. Also got some OEM plugs for the air rail holes. New oil pan about to go on. Some goodies coming from Redline for an eventual sniper addition. Rebuild coming along well now.

 

[LSUfj]

Some goodies showing up for the eventual sniper addition. I dug an extra intake out of storage, but it’s also cracked. Looking into repair or replacement. Also have a good exhaust manifold. What’s the consensus on headers vs OEM? Plan to keep the OEM exhaust manifold unless there’s a compelling reason to go with headers. Cracked manifold and sniper stuff…

 

[LSUfj]

I ended up sending the intake off to @cruisermatt for a crack repair. Service was fast and price was fair. I also decided to pick up some 3FE exhaust manifolds.

Other general progress:

• Cleaned head bolt and bolt hole threads, torqued head down
• Installed rocker assembly

Steps backward;

• While attempting to adjust initial valve clearance , I noticed that the slot in the distributor hole/oil pump looked odd. I stuck a flat head in there and found an odd loose piece of metal.
• I attempted to fish it out, but it might be larger than the hole
• I pulled the oil pan and brand new OEM gasket
• Pulled the oil pump and started disassembly
• Ordered a new oil pump, which has a different pick up, but will see if; A. It works as is, or B. Can be swapped into my original assembly

I have not yet figured out what the metal is. My suspicion is that it is one of the ears of the shaft where you can insert a flat head to prime the pump. No idea how that would have broken. I’ll confirm when I get the new pump. The little screws on the oil pump were too tight to remove and I gave up after stripping one.

Happy Father’s Day to the dads out there!
Some general progress pics

 

[LSUfj]

I’m trying to sort out these two holes in red. One is the OEM location for the oil sender. Was the other OEM, or added? It had an aftermarket mechanical gauge and the OEM gauge when I got it. Just wondering which is the original sender location and if that other was added or was plugged from the factory.

 

[ranchdawg]

Here’s mine. 06/75 2f.

 

[LSUfj]

Here’s mine. 06/75 2f.View attachment 3963738

Is the one to the left of the “32” just a blind hole, not open to the oil passages? Wondering if mine was drilled/tapped by the PO.