2001 Buildup

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wngrog

wngrog

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I retitled this because I finished the suspension and answered all the questions. It soon became a buildup thread.

Thanks Woody for the title change.

Here is how it began:

OK, I read all the posts, read the OME manual and talked to Christo.

I pulled the OEM torsion bars out. The stock bracketry has white marks on it and the flat groove.

I took a OME torsion bar and marked the splines on each end so they are the exact ones on each side. I used a chalk line for this.

I lined up the marks I made on the new OME Torsion bar with the flat spot on the bracketry, front and rear.

When I bolted it back in, the rear adjustment arm was clocked too far clockwise.

In fact, I had to pry the adjuster down just to get the top "nut" in the frame.

So, the whole assembly needs to be rotated counterclockwise about 1/4 turn, but I don't know what the hell I did wrong.

I know that the other side when I loosened the anchor arm on the passenger side it is 1/4" below the frame bracket before I tighten it back up.

I want to just rotate the damn anchor arm down to that as a starting point and just crank it back up. Christo says that will be bad.

I need help figuring out where I went wrong......
 
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Where's Bull at when ya need him?... :D
 
Next spline

Sounds like you need to rotate to the next -maybe 2 splines. I believe the easiest way is to leave the adjustable side and t-bar together slide t-bar toward rear of vehical, rotate and reinsert into front mount.
 
farinvail said:
Sounds like you need to rotate to the next -maybe 2 splines. I believe the easiest way is to leave the adjustable side and t-bar together slide t-bar toward rear of vehical, rotate and reinsert into front mount.
Click to expand...

That is what seems the logical thing to do to me.

I need to check the OEM bars and see if the flat spots are directly across from each other. I am thinking they must not be.
 
I had the same issue. You will have to rotate it a spline or two and re-install and check it. I don't think the flat parts are exactly across from eachother. I had to move mine 5 or 6 splines to get it right, which means I had the bars in and out 4 times or so...




Also, I still think my driverside is off a bit and will be taking it out again this weekend. Let me know if you need phone support..or a hug :)
 
Yeah I saw that.

Sure, it dawned on me that the indexing spots (flat spots) must not be directly across from each other.

Here is the deal.

Take the OEM torsion bar and lay it flat.

Run a line aross from one index mark (flat spot) on the torsion bar to the other end of the bar.

Count how many splines they are off from one another.

Mine are 4 splines off.

Set the front (axle end) in place and index the rear 4 splines off on each side.

They should hang from the adjuster bolt the same distance on both sides.

Don't use an impact on the adjuster bolt.

Don't lay inder the Torsion bar when you are torquing it.....they can explode if the metal is a bad cast.

Now, about those cupholders......................
 
So does this mean you figured it out? Honestly I think it is trial and error, my drivervside seems to be off. When I remove it this weekend I will count splines etc from the flat spots.

Cup holders are overated..
 
I tried counting

I tried to count splines and mark them. Totally useless. When putting it together I couldn't see squat. Eventually just tried to hit the same angle on the adjusters and about the same amount of adjuster bolt treaded. Off one spline on drivers side. Figured it out before tightening everyting. Couple times up and down adjusting. Guess I got lucky. No the flats on oem t-bars are not parallel. I think 4 splines off. useless information, just trial and error imo
 
Yeah, I just lined them up based on the angle of the torque arm. I let them hang down a bit, so that as I tightened them to the right height, they were level with the frame rail.

EDIT: The first thing I did was look at the angle of the torque arm with stock t-bars. Then, on the new t-bars, I let the torque arm hang down about 30 degrees lower than original. That way, when I cranked them up to gain lift they would end up about the same spot as they were originally.
 
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well surely there's someone who works for the various aftermarket manufacturers lurking on here...man this one of the many things (ie suspension mods) still on my list to do and i really hope you find the solution!!
cheers
peter
 
Uhm, I have to check the stock bars. I was under the impression the marks are in line.

We always mark the front and rear bracket on the torsion bar and make sure that they do not rotate in relation to each other when we transfer them from the stock bars to the new ones.
 
wngrog said:
The marks are off.

Before and after. 1.5" higher in the rear with the 863s
Click to expand...

What's up with these pix? You have an 01 right?

Looks really elevated...? :confused:
 
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