Fender Louver (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 28, 2003
Threads
36
Messages
1,192
I installed a small louver in the Drivers Side US to let air flow easier through an oil cooler I have under the fender. It would also allow more airflow from the engine bay to help move some heat out for a regular configuration. It is a very simple mod, just cut hole, use nutserts/rivnuts, and install louver. The louver has been discussed before and is Volvo part number 3522732. Cost something like $19.00 US.

Bill
Louver-Fender-Cut-Hole.jpg
Louver-Fender-Done.jpg
 
What's with the dual snorkels (do both of them function, what rig is the drivers side off of?)? ONe 3 1/2 inch hole was enough for me, but clearly you and the saw are good friends. Looks pretty crazy,

-Sam-
 
Bill, judging from the layer of dust on that pig, i'd say it's been a while since she's seen daylight, no?
 
Bill,

Will you let us know if this helps out tremendously? I have a pair of the same louvers that I'm itching to install. However I wanted to confirm the best location before I become one with sheet metal!

Thanks.

Ali
 
just how many things are under that fender that you need to cool?

the other thread has this pic

attachment.php


I kind of think you should just take the fenders off the truck....... for maximum breathing

by the way, when is it your turn to be the ROTW?
 
Bill, I had thought of doing a fender louver in the same area to help with heat but had wanted to use one of the FJ-60/62 ones to keep it looking a little more "Land Cruiser". Yours looks great and certainly functional though. One thing to note, that would have to be relocated a bit for use with the factory side marker lights.
Mike
 
Did anyone think of doing something like this for the fender that the air filter sucks from? It wouldn't be as ideal as a snorkel, but itwould bring in cooler air.
 
concretejungle - I looked at the inspection sticker and it said 03/03, so I would say I came back from the last trip in 12/02. Just a garage queen now. Embarrassing. :eek:

Rusty - The pic is a repost. I'm too lazy to look up the thread if the pic made the transition over. Oh, and the black thing in the back of the pic is the relocated charcoal canister. There is a shroud I made for the oil cooler to force some air through it. Stuff is still not connected yet.

clownmidget - Not sure if I remember correctly, but I think I asked Dan if the FJ60/62 louver would work and I think he said yes? I had an 88 FJ62 but sold it so I could not check. It would probably be nicer, but more $$ I suppose. Good tip on the side marker lights.

Bill
Oil-cooler-without-shroud.jpg
 
Bill, yes, I've been told that the 60/62 louver will fit. SOR has them used for $20 a pop so they aren't cheap. You addressed one of my concerns with yours though that I didn't notice until now. That is, what to do about those "40th" emblems on the front fenders. That is why I mentioned the side marker lights. I've been sitting on my set trying to figure out if I should remove those emblems in order to put the lights in the "oem" placement or just move them 2 inches in order to keep the emblems. Dan was kind enough to let me know that those emblems are discontinued so removing them means that's it. Then I saw your louvers and figured out what your opinion on the emblems was ;). So I think maybe the 60/62 louver right below the oem side markers and screw the emblems.

Refresh my memory but what is the accusump for?
 
I'll answer for Bill on the Accusump.

Because Bill has been so busy planning his next trip, inventing a rear crossmember that can handle towing a Class A pusher motorhome without bending, researching the fan issue, and making a living - he no longer has time for birf repacks. The Accusump does this automatically. So, the sump is hooked up to a 15 gallon reservoir of brake cleaner that required no storage tank as he simply welded up the entire left frame member into a tank for the fluid. Unhappy with the need for another Accusump, he figured out a way to build a miniature transmission for it so that it also operates in reverse. When in reverse, it pumps from the other frame member, which is full of moly grease (the pump also has a 4.11 to 1 reduction gear in reverse to handle the load).

So, when it's time for a birf repack, (say, during breakfast) Bill drops a 1 inch steel ball into a pipe in his house (next to the nuclear powered coffee maker). The ball travels down the pipe, and pops out into an old boot near the barn where the 80 lives. The boot falls over and a string tied to it pulls the cork out of a barrel of rainwater. The barrel empties, causing a rainbow trout living in it to flap around until it hits a small contact switch calibrated to .08 ounces of pressure and this in turn engages the Accusump. The brake fluid is then forced through braided titanium 4500psi lines to each birf, where it rinses the old grease out a pair of one way valves he's installed in the bottom of each birf chamber. Meanwhile, the flapping of the trout catches the attention of Bill's cat "Adiabatic", who goes to investigate. Nearing the barrel, the modified "Invisible Fence" transponder on the cat's collar throws a switch once in range that reverses the Accusump and it goes into low range to refill the birfs with moly grease. It then shuts down when the pressure switch indicates a full birf.

Bill has also incorporated this entire operation into his Toyota key fob and he can start the sequence up remotely while walking out of the local IGA with a sack of groceries so it's completed by the time he gets to the truck. The truck can also wash itself and has an integrated PTO weed wacker that deploys itself - both with remote buttons as well. What you see here in the pictures of the missing fender is the unfortunate result of him accidentally pushing both buttons, at which time the truck attempted to wash itself with the weed wacker.

DougM
 
Doug,
Rube would be proud :D

For those of you who don't know...this is how Doug sharpens his pencils...
rube_goldberg_pencil_sharpener2.jpg
 
IdahoDoug said:
I'll answer for Bill on the Accusump.

Because Bill has been so busy planning his next trip, inventing a rear crossmember that can handle towing a Class A pusher motorhome without bending, researching the fan issue, and making a living - he no longer has time for birf repacks. The Accusump does this automatically.

nice writeup, but is this a description about Bill or of more about yourself?
Im curious Doug - how well did you get along with your mother?







Bill, when is your truck gonna be a ROTW??
 
clownmidget,

I want to use the Accusump as a preluber for the motor. They come in different sizes holding something like 1, 2, or 3 quarts of oil. Mine is setup with and electric solenoid valve so before startup I throw the switch and the 1 quart of oil under pressure is forced into the engine causing it to have oil pressure, and lubing the bearings etc. So the engine has some oil and pressure before startup. The trick is to make sure the oil pressure is up, then shut the electric solenoid valve, then shut the motor off. This makes sure there is oil in the Accusump for startup. These are used in racing applications where on high G curves or acceleration it is possible for the engine to loose oil pressure. The Accusump if set up this way can then resupply the motor to replace oil pressure. Think of it as a sort of an extra oil reservoir that is not affected by G’s etc. They work by having an adjustable air supply inside on one side on a piston with the oil being on the other. I have a gauge and a Schrader valve if air adjustment is necessary. They are like a water well tank if you are familiar with those. The downside of the Accusump is a judgment has to be made on how much extra oil you feel comfortable with in the engine. For example, if the engine oil is full and you have the 1 quart size Accusump, then when it is turned on the engine is 1 quart overfull. There are some that will leave the engine 1 quart low on oil thus making it full when the Accusump is released. Just have to remember to turn it on.

For more info and prices. Accusump

DougM - I ...........................

Rusty

Bill, when is your truck gonna be a ROTW??

Either never or I hope not for a long time. Sorry, just not into that.

Bill
 
I know that before they crank the race car they first hook a warming unit up that warms the oil to operate temperatures. THey then take a cordless drill and turn the motor over using the drill fastened to one of the front pullys. This primes the motor with oil before it's actually started. Minus the warming unit, could this be accomplished on the 1fzfe by simply turning the motor over using a drill? Or is it a waste of time?
 
Photoman said:
(referring to ROTW)

Either never or I hope not for a long time. Sorry, just not into that.

Bill

Hey Bill- I think I speak for most on the forum when I say I hope you'll reconsider. From what I can tell, you have some of the most ingenious and functional mods of anyone in this group. I think it would be a great contribution to the forum if you tell us a little about your mods when you have time. Amazing rig! :cheers:
 
Last edited:
In the September issue of the Land Cruiser Magazine there was an article of this guy who used OEM side louvers from the 70 and put it on the hood.

I don't have a scanner handy so I can't post pics, but it's just plain plastic/ABS(?) ones. The part number is: 62951-90K00.

The cost is something like $28.80 here, so if your local dealer or Cdan can get it, it should be cheaper, I think.

Anyway, FWIW.

Mot
 
Bill,

I agree on the ROTW thing. I'm not into that kind of thing generally either, but I think some of the well thought out mods on your truck seriously improve its functional capabilities in a way that most people cannot conceive of, let alone accomplish as you have. Many of us would take quite a bit away from an overview of your vehicle, and I suspect there would be a lot of us incorporating the things that pertain to the way each of us uses our vehicle.

Regards,

DougM
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom