Fender Louver
- Thread starter Photoman
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Bill
cool truck. I have a preluber on my 96. I got mine from autoenginelube.com. It uses a cool valve that only allows flow one way untill you give the valve 12 volts and then it will open to go the other way. Sooooo after you start the engine the oil pressure from the oil pump charges the preluber bottle with oil under press and when you want to release the pressurized oil (say in the morning before you drive)you can siply hold down a button for a few seconds. my preluber has a 20 second timer that starts when you turn the key to on and then closes the valve 20 sec later. I use the timer so my wife doesnt need to remember to close the preluber valve when she drives the cruiser. I asked the guy who works for the site if I could buy the valve alone and he said he would sell me one for $65.
cool truck. I have a preluber on my 96. I got mine from autoenginelube.com. It uses a cool valve that only allows flow one way untill you give the valve 12 volts and then it will open to go the other way. Sooooo after you start the engine the oil pressure from the oil pump charges the preluber bottle with oil under press and when you want to release the pressurized oil (say in the morning before you drive)you can siply hold down a button for a few seconds. my preluber has a 20 second timer that starts when you turn the key to on and then closes the valve 20 sec later. I use the timer so my wife doesnt need to remember to close the preluber valve when she drives the cruiser. I asked the guy who works for the site if I could buy the valve alone and he said he would sell me one for $65.
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2003
- Threads
- 36
- Messages
- 1,189
- Thread starter
- #23
Dusty,
Sounds cool and you’ve given me an idea. I can just wire in a delay timer set to 20 seconds or so and then it would shut off and would mimic the one you have. These Accusumps have different valve options. From manual to some fast fill ones more suited to circle track etc, stuff. The regular electric valve I have is part # 24-270 and I see it sells for $107.50. It can just be wired to the ignition switch or use a toggle switch to manually turn it on and off. When the solenoid valve is turned on (open) at startup, the oil flows from the Accusump to the engine because of the pressure difference. The air in the Accucump cylinder is compressed and the engine has zero pressure. When the engine is running the oil pressure goes up and forces oil back into the Accusump cylinder and recompresses the air; as long as the solenoid is open. This is one advantage to using the toggle switch as opposed to it shutting it off with the ignition. It can be turned off when oil pressure is high thereby having a higher pressure with which to prelube at startup. Only thing is remembering to turn it off before shutting down the engine. Otherwise, you got zilch, no prelube.
Bill
Sounds cool and you’ve given me an idea. I can just wire in a delay timer set to 20 seconds or so and then it would shut off and would mimic the one you have. These Accusumps have different valve options. From manual to some fast fill ones more suited to circle track etc, stuff. The regular electric valve I have is part # 24-270 and I see it sells for $107.50. It can just be wired to the ignition switch or use a toggle switch to manually turn it on and off. When the solenoid valve is turned on (open) at startup, the oil flows from the Accusump to the engine because of the pressure difference. The air in the Accucump cylinder is compressed and the engine has zero pressure. When the engine is running the oil pressure goes up and forces oil back into the Accusump cylinder and recompresses the air; as long as the solenoid is open. This is one advantage to using the toggle switch as opposed to it shutting it off with the ignition. It can be turned off when oil pressure is high thereby having a higher pressure with which to prelube at startup. Only thing is remembering to turn it off before shutting down the engine. Otherwise, you got zilch, no prelube.
Bill
The accusump is a better luber than the one I got and that small pressure guage that come with it is nice because you can always check to make sure it is working.
another thought Bill-(one I gleaned from the bobistheoilguy.com forum) Some techies on the forum suggest that the preluber valve should be closed after its initial discharge and before start up. The reason they give for closing the valve prior to start is as follows: by not closing the valve prior to start up you force the engine to use its initial building oil pressure at start up to charge the preluber as oposed to lubing the engine. this sounds good on paper but then you need to remember to reopen and close the vave after the motor is running. The valve I got is handy because it is a one way valve into the luber tank until it turned on to discharge into the engine. Thus after my 20 second timer goes off the tank is free to take the highest pressure possible.
I doubt it is all the important to close the valve prior to start up as shared above (I doubt prelubing makes too much diff at all) as the reason for prelubing is mainly to add a little more slick to moving parts prior to start and not so much to bring up oil press prior to start. I originally had a 20 ounce tank on my luber but recently upgraded to about a 2 litre tank after I modified an aluminum oxygen bottle that a patient didn't need anymore (old people die all the time and have all kinds of usefull medical equipment left over) The one-way valve on my luber is essential for my setup because my wife drives the cruiser all the time and if the valve were somehow closed when the tank was empty the engine would be way overoiled.
I baught my preluber one day after I was reading the 1fzfe fsm and saw the picture of all those little piston squirters positioned below the skirts. I got excited thinking about all those little squirters squirting prior to start up. Im a physician so after I installed the luber i crawled under the cruiser and put my stethascope on the oil pan while my wife turned on the luber-it was a kick to hear the splashing in the pan-my wife thought it was pretty sick.
another thought Bill-(one I gleaned from the bobistheoilguy.com forum) Some techies on the forum suggest that the preluber valve should be closed after its initial discharge and before start up. The reason they give for closing the valve prior to start is as follows: by not closing the valve prior to start up you force the engine to use its initial building oil pressure at start up to charge the preluber as oposed to lubing the engine. this sounds good on paper but then you need to remember to reopen and close the vave after the motor is running. The valve I got is handy because it is a one way valve into the luber tank until it turned on to discharge into the engine. Thus after my 20 second timer goes off the tank is free to take the highest pressure possible.
I doubt it is all the important to close the valve prior to start up as shared above (I doubt prelubing makes too much diff at all) as the reason for prelubing is mainly to add a little more slick to moving parts prior to start and not so much to bring up oil press prior to start. I originally had a 20 ounce tank on my luber but recently upgraded to about a 2 litre tank after I modified an aluminum oxygen bottle that a patient didn't need anymore (old people die all the time and have all kinds of usefull medical equipment left over) The one-way valve on my luber is essential for my setup because my wife drives the cruiser all the time and if the valve were somehow closed when the tank was empty the engine would be way overoiled.
I baught my preluber one day after I was reading the 1fzfe fsm and saw the picture of all those little piston squirters positioned below the skirts. I got excited thinking about all those little squirters squirting prior to start up. Im a physician so after I installed the luber i crawled under the cruiser and put my stethascope on the oil pan while my wife turned on the luber-it was a kick to hear the splashing in the pan-my wife thought it was pretty sick.
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2003
- Threads
- 36
- Messages
- 1,189
- Thread starter
- #25
Dusty,
I like that idea that you mentioned of dumping the preluber on startup, then shutting it down until the motor is up and running. I was always concerned that with the solenoid open when starting, the first quart of oil pumped would go back into the perluber and not the engine.
I would have to see that valve you describe as a one way valve or a schematic. In my mind it is actually just the solenoid valve. Many of these systems do come with a one way valve. If installed properly, it allows flow only to enter the engine, and not backflow back into the oil filter etc. where the pressure would be lost. One way valves are just that, one way. Most are mechanical like a spring against a ball. When pressure comes one direction against the ball it pushes the spring back and allows oil to flow. The other way the ball is just forced tighter against the seat not allowing any oil flow. The other kind I am familiar with is a flapper valve which is usually more expensive. Same idea just using a flap that pivots. One way pushes the flap open; the other just forces it tighter against the seat. Neither can be made to flow in the opposite direction.
My interpretation of the system you have is by pressing the button it is opening the solenoid valve allowing the higher pressure oil stored in the preluber to flow to the engine, which is at a lower pressure or zero for startup. As I said previously there could be a one way mechanical valve installed especially if the installation did not go directly to the block and tied it at the oil filter. Then when you release the button the solenoid closes which would not allow flow back into the preluber. Next, the ignition key is turned on which again opens the solenoid allowing the higher oil pressure to recharge your prelube bottle for 20 seconds, then the timer times out, closing the valve, preserving the pressure in the preluber. Hope this makes sense. I have to see a physician today and he will be carrying more than a stethoscope. If any of this is incoherent or offensive, I apologize. Had to take the pre visit meds.
With your stethoscope trick, it is probably good you don't install toilets.
Bill
I like that idea that you mentioned of dumping the preluber on startup, then shutting it down until the motor is up and running. I was always concerned that with the solenoid open when starting, the first quart of oil pumped would go back into the perluber and not the engine.
I would have to see that valve you describe as a one way valve or a schematic. In my mind it is actually just the solenoid valve. Many of these systems do come with a one way valve. If installed properly, it allows flow only to enter the engine, and not backflow back into the oil filter etc. where the pressure would be lost. One way valves are just that, one way. Most are mechanical like a spring against a ball. When pressure comes one direction against the ball it pushes the spring back and allows oil to flow. The other way the ball is just forced tighter against the seat not allowing any oil flow. The other kind I am familiar with is a flapper valve which is usually more expensive. Same idea just using a flap that pivots. One way pushes the flap open; the other just forces it tighter against the seat. Neither can be made to flow in the opposite direction.
My interpretation of the system you have is by pressing the button it is opening the solenoid valve allowing the higher pressure oil stored in the preluber to flow to the engine, which is at a lower pressure or zero for startup. As I said previously there could be a one way mechanical valve installed especially if the installation did not go directly to the block and tied it at the oil filter. Then when you release the button the solenoid closes which would not allow flow back into the preluber. Next, the ignition key is turned on which again opens the solenoid allowing the higher oil pressure to recharge your prelube bottle for 20 seconds, then the timer times out, closing the valve, preserving the pressure in the preluber. Hope this makes sense. I have to see a physician today and he will be carrying more than a stethoscope. If any of this is incoherent or offensive, I apologize. Had to take the pre visit meds.
With your stethoscope trick, it is probably good you don't install toilets.
Bill
Bill
Hope you have fun at the doctor's- and nobody offends me without my permission.
Ya got me thinking. The guy who sold me the valve swore it works as I stated but now that you mention it I may be duked and the valve truly is a one way as you described above. I have a plan to test it: I will simply disconect the power to the valve after I discharge the luber. once the luber tank is empty of oil and pressure (((and i can confirm this with the oil press guage on the tank and I have a air fill,like a tire, on the tank so I can pressurize the tank to make sure it can be completely emptied of oil in case it somehow gets full of oil without having air in the tank- if there is a tank full of oil without air in the top to be pressurized there will be no force to drive out the oil thus a way to pressurize the tank is helpfull-your tank doesn't need this due to better engineering))) I will start the motor and rev it and then turn it off. If the tank has a simple one way valve as you describe there should be no oil in the tank after the test. if the tank has a one way valve as I have described the tank should be full of oil after the test.
If my tank doesn't have the one way valve I have described one could be integrated simply: simply plumb a bypass hose around the valve, ie place a tee between the tank and solenoid and between the solenoid and engine block access (in my case the hole for the oil pressure sender) this hose that is bypassing the solenoid would need a one way valve placed in it so that oil could only go to the direction of the tee placed between the tank and solenoid and thus could only charge the tank-therefore the tank is free to take the greatest pressure possible as i have described in my last post.
hope im understandable
Hope you have fun at the doctor's- and nobody offends me without my permission.
Ya got me thinking. The guy who sold me the valve swore it works as I stated but now that you mention it I may be duked and the valve truly is a one way as you described above. I have a plan to test it: I will simply disconect the power to the valve after I discharge the luber. once the luber tank is empty of oil and pressure (((and i can confirm this with the oil press guage on the tank and I have a air fill,like a tire, on the tank so I can pressurize the tank to make sure it can be completely emptied of oil in case it somehow gets full of oil without having air in the tank- if there is a tank full of oil without air in the top to be pressurized there will be no force to drive out the oil thus a way to pressurize the tank is helpfull-your tank doesn't need this due to better engineering))) I will start the motor and rev it and then turn it off. If the tank has a simple one way valve as you describe there should be no oil in the tank after the test. if the tank has a one way valve as I have described the tank should be full of oil after the test.
If my tank doesn't have the one way valve I have described one could be integrated simply: simply plumb a bypass hose around the valve, ie place a tee between the tank and solenoid and between the solenoid and engine block access (in my case the hole for the oil pressure sender) this hose that is bypassing the solenoid would need a one way valve placed in it so that oil could only go to the direction of the tee placed between the tank and solenoid and thus could only charge the tank-therefore the tank is free to take the greatest pressure possible as i have described in my last post.
hope im understandable
test confirms the valve in my tank is a simple one way as bill thought. I have a small switch in the cab (it sits where the hand trottle is suposed to be) that i was using to turn off the luber in case i needed to turn the key to "on" but didn't want the luber to discharge its load (remember the luber is wired to the cigarett lighter so the luber valve will get 12 volts when the wife goes to start the car). Now that i know what I know after this test I just need to remember to toggle the luber switch off and back on while the motor is revier to get a prelube charge (or plumb in the one way valve as stated above)