Repacked the rear wheel bearings this afternoon. (1 Viewer)

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Since we'll be towing with the 97 this summer and I haven't a clue how the previous owner maintained them, I repacked the rear wheel bearings. Amazing how quickly this job can go.

Since I recently filled the rear diff with $40 worth of Mobil 1, I hit on a solution to avoid losing it. Simply jacked each rear wheel in turn all the way to the top of my jack while I worked on it. Worked - The axle housing tip was above the gear oil level.

Just like the 93 at 90,000 miles, the rear axle seal had worn enough that gear oil basically washed the bearings clear of grease. The wheel bearings on this 97 at 137,000 looked perfect and I could tell they were untouched as the Toyota yellowish clear factory grease was still packed between them in the cavity. In fact, they clearly would have run perfectly contentedly like this for another 100,000 miles. But I wanted grease in there for the pressure rating gear oil won't provide. Spindles were absolutely perfect, where my 93 had some scoring from the bearings - likely because I towed with it a lot before repacking them.

Skipped altogether the fish scale thing and simply set up the bearings by feel. Looked great with fresh red Mobil 1 packed in everything. With only 2 seals and 1 paper gasket per side, this service cost me a whopping $45 plus a half tub of M1 grease. I have no doubt the dealer price on this service would be $300.

Thanks to Cdan for the correct parts first time every time, and ScottM for use of his rear bearing locknut tool! Finally ready for tow season.

DougM
 
Thanks to Cdan for the correct parts first time every time,

Amen to that Doug. Well put.

Also, another question:

Skipped altogether the fish scale thing and simply set up the bearings by feel.

How do you do this? Does this skill set come after years of experience with dealing in front and rear axle work? Or is there some secret in knowing when good enough is good enough? I guess I am unsure how you know when you are within specs.

When Rook2 and I did the rear axles, I believe both of us were on the upper end of the specs. according to the FSM...and that was with a spring gauge.

I guess experience has its benefits. Thanks Doug.

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
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I gave up on the fish scale in my fronts, they were wobbly loose to get the fish scale right. I tightened the locknut so the play was just gone, left it there. I'll probably do the same with the rears later this summer.
 
scottm said:
I gave up on the fish scale in my fronts, they were wobbly loose to get the fish scale right. I tightened the locknut so the play was just gone, left it there. I'll probably do the same with the rears later this summer.


Scott, outta' total respect, you'll repack what? I thought your 80 was a total loss due to the meeting of a crane?
 
The wife's ride. He has one left.
 
Wheel bearings are really not complicated to set up - they're really more a matter of having some confidence in yourself I believe. I've done a few on cars, a few on bicycle wheels, bicycle pedals, and this and that. It's a feel thing and being assertive pays off.

I use the FSM part where you first tighten the nut to 43 ft-lbs or whatever, and run it back and forth awhile. Then I loosen it, and repeat. Then I loosen it and now tighten it until I feel the resistance in the wrench that the bearings are getting pressed together. Do this a few times and you'll realize there's a definited feel in the wrench that the bearings and races have just become pressed together firmly.

At this point I make a simple decision. If these are new bearings/races I'll tighten slightly (perhaps 5 degrees) on the theory that the parts will be breaking in and therefore loosening slightly as they do. If it's a repack of good used bearings I will leave them as is because they're broken in and the clearance is not going to loosen up. You want the parts to be together and touching firmly, but not mashed.

It's important to do the 43lb tightening and run them back and forth to press excess grease out of the bearings so you can subsequently feel the sudden rise in wrench resistance. If you don't do it, this rise is less pronounced because of the damping effect of grease still being squeezed out.

Even after my own experience, I will touch all four wheels routinely at gas stops on a freeway trip to maintain my personal baseline of running temps. You can also immediately tell if a bearing is too tight as that wheel will feel warmer. A little variation is fine, but if you wanted to be anal you can actually loosen a front wheel bearing without even taking the wheel off - pop the center cap off, unbolt the drive plate and you're looking at the bearing nuts.

HTH. It's an art, but frankly it's not as exacting as the whole fish scale thing leads you to believe.
 
IdahoDoug said:
HTH. It's an art, but frankly it's not as exacting as the whole fish scale thing leads you to believe.

I'm pretty sure that cruisers in many "3rd world" countries have wheel bearings repacked without a fishscale. Fingertouch is a pretty fine tool. As an ex-bike mechanic, that's how we did it. By touch. That's how we tought the newbies - "here, feel this, it's too tight...now feel how it's just right..."

Thanks Doug for reminding us about how a simple skill can be more important than a tool...
 
Since we both hail from the shallow end of the gene pool, I'm sure he'll figure a way to get it out of me. Heh. What I really like about doing this stuff myself is that the bearings are full of grease of a quality no dealership would carry. Makes me wonder if a guy could open a mechanic shop called "Fully Synthetic" or some such to indicate to anal types like this list that they only use the best stuff. Would hardly cost a few bucks more for most work.

DougM
 
IdahoDoug said:
Wheel bearings are really not complicated to set up - they're really more a matter of having some confidence in yourself I believe. I've done a few on cars, a few on bicycle wheels, bicycle pedals, and this and that. It's a feel thing and being assertive pays off.

I use the FSM part where you first tighten the nut to 43 ft-lbs or whatever, and run it back and forth awhile. Then I loosen it, and repeat. Then I loosen it and now tighten it until I feel the resistance in the wrench that the bearings are getting pressed together. Do this a few times and you'll realize there's a definited feel in the wrench that the bearings and races have just become pressed together firmly.

At this point I make a simple decision. If these are new bearings/races I'll tighten slightly (perhaps 5 degrees) on the theory that the parts will be breaking in and therefore loosening slightly as they do. If it's a repack of good used bearings I will leave them as is because they're broken in and the clearance is not going to loosen up. You want the parts to be together and touching firmly, but not mashed.

It's important to do the 43lb tightening and run them back and forth to press excess grease out of the bearings so you can subsequently feel the sudden rise in wrench resistance. If you don't do it, this rise is less pronounced because of the damping effect of grease still being squeezed out.

Even after my own experience, I will touch all four wheels routinely at gas stops on a freeway trip to maintain my personal baseline of running temps. You can also immediately tell if a bearing is too tight as that wheel will feel warmer. A little variation is fine, but if you wanted to be anal you can actually loosen a front wheel bearing without even taking the wheel off - pop the center cap off, unbolt the drive plate and you're looking at the bearing nuts.

HTH. It's an art, but frankly it's not as exacting as the whole fish scale thing leads you to believe.

This description is encouraging for someone like me who wants to wrench but has no idea what :banana: means (no reference points yet - never worked on cars). I used to repack bicycle bottom brackets, hubs, pedals, headsets for, well, a living - so I actually understand what Doug is talking about.

Thanks,

David
 

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