Power Steering Issues

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matt.mcinnes

2F-ETI
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Threads
43
Messages
2,390
Location
Melbourne
Ever since I had the power steering fitted I have had issues with it. Always a thorn in my side from leaking pump to fitting extactors, we won't go there thou:mad:

So 1st up, I have noticed that most posts state that the 2F block had the holes in the block from around 1979 as shown here in a photo I borrowed form PabloCruis's thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=1008741#post1008741

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Now I have had a look at my block and been a late 80 model yes it has them, but here is the thing, as far as I can see all right hand drive 40's and 60's have their power steering pump on the drivers side and use the bolt holes off the head as their are none on that side of the block.
Except for mine, for some reason the PO moved the alternator (sensible as it keeps it out of the mud) from where it usually is on a right hand drive (where your smog pump resides) to where your alternators usually sit in the USA.

This meant when the power steering conversion was done they were not happy and tried to charge extra as their brackets had to be custom as did the hoses. I pointed out that my written quote was for a full conversion and he had said "No need to look there are all the same" at that he swallowed his extra costs:D

I have noticed today while looking at a few issues with the 2F-ETI conversion a slight leak from the water pump gasket caused by the design of the power steering pump levering in on the two bolts used to fix the bracket and water pump grrrrrrrrr.

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Now for those of you that are following my 2F-ETI thread it's getting close to pulling the engine time, so I think this thorn should be once and for-all finally fixed.

Now even with an oil cooler this pump even after been stripped and rebuilt under load 35's at 6psi leaks:mad:

So do I switch to a different pump, maybe a GM with remote reservoir and a new bracket using the genuine holes or just source a genuine 2F power steering bracket which will have to come from the USA as their are none to suit that side here in Oz.
 
Toyota PS pumps do not flow near the volume and pressure that a GM pump does, which is a dead giveaway on your problem turning 35" meats, without leaking. No reason that they will not work but it mayget expensive replacing them. A fair amount of people go directly to a GM pump once the Toy one quits. For larger tires i would definatley look into putting a GM pump on there.
 
There is a lot of stress on all PS components turning tires at 6psi. I have put quite a few pumps on mine. I never air my tires up, 5psi whether in town or on the trail. Why? Because is rides like a caddy with nearly flat tires :D
 
There is a lot of stress on all PS components turning tires at 6psi. I have put quite a few pumps on mine. I never air my tires up, 5psi whether in town or on the trail. Why? Because is rides like a caddy with nearly flat tires :D

Sounds like the way to go then I can pick a fully reco GM pump up for $80Aus now for the bracket.

Oh yes got to love the ride a 6psi
 
There is a lot of stress on all PS components turning tires at 6psi. I have put quite a few pumps on mine. I never air my tires up, 5psi whether in town or on the trail. Why? Because is rides like a caddy with nearly flat tires :D

unless you have to make a turn above 20 MPH ;):beer:

if yo want it to ride like a caddy, buy a caddy:rolleyes:
 
Ok off to hit search but if anyone knows where to get an after market or second hand genuine power steering bracket to suit the above holes from post up:D
 
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When I do my conversion, my pump will be put on the driver side on the head where the alternator is now. The upgraded alternator will be moved to mount where the holes in the left side of the block are, probably a bit close to the mud, but makes for a neater steering setup.. I have to fit the York somewhere too.. I'm interested in mounting bracket outcomes, its something I've spent some time looking at too..
 
When I do my conversion, my pump will be put on the driver side on the head where the alternator is now. The upgraded alternator will be moved to mount where the holes in the left side of the block are, probably a bit close to the mud, but makes for a neater steering setup.. I have to fit the York somewhere too.. I'm interested in mounting bracket outcomes, its something I've spent some time looking at too..

Thats how I did my 74 FJ40. Used a alt mount from a 78 to put the alternator on the passenger side and fabed up a pump mount to fit the old alternator mount.


Kevin
 
Cruiserparts.net probably has one. They're good folks to work with, too!
 
Toyota PS pumps do not flow near the volume and pressure that a GM pump does, which is a dead giveaway on your problem turning 35" meats, without leaking. .

Really?

The toyota pump puts out 1050 PSI at 4 GPM, while the average Saginaw puts out 1100 PSI at 4 GPM. To me, that is close.
 
Well thanks to VTcruiser60 I have a genuine power steering bracket winging it's way from the USA.:cheers:

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Today I picked up a rebuilt GM/Holden powersteering pump $80Aus

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Now to just fit the two together:D

One main advantage to this pump is it uses a separate reservoir moving it away from the headers and turbo.

Once the modification are complete i'll post up.
 
Power steering bracket arrived today:cheers:

Now how do you usually tension these:confused:
 
All ready for a new coat of paint

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Looking good too the G/M pump lines up with both the mounting holes and only need spacers to center the pull to the right spot for the V Belt:bounce:

Just have to fit the pulley too it and figure out how to tension it:mad:
 
All ready for a new coat of paint

Looking good too the G/M pump lines up with both the mounting holes and only need spacers to center the pull to the right spot for the V Belt:bounce:

Just have to fit the pulley too it and figure out how to tension it:mad:

You tension it using the alternator, IIRC.

See this picture for belt routing:

http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/fanbelheavdu.html

You will have to have either a smog pump or an idler pulley for the crank-to-water pump belt. Someone on here makes one, that I bought for mine, but I can't remember who. You can probably do a search on smog pump replacement or idler pulley to find out...

HTH!
 
You tension it using the alternator, IIRC.

See this picture for belt routing:

http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/fanbelheavdu.html

You will have to have either a smog pump or an idler pulley for the crank-to-water pump belt. Someone on here makes one, that I bought for mine, but I can't remember who. You can probably do a search on smog pump replacement or idler pulley to find out...

HTH!


Just what I needed, currently I run 3 short belts one to the power steering one to the alternator and one to the Air compressor. All I need now then is two blets C and D and use the alternator to tension the system.

Tks
 
Well some thing just work and some don't this is one of those occasions that does:bounce:

Picked up an new Stainless shouldered bolt yesterday, actually wanted 2 but only had one in stock:mad:so that's on back order, so for now using a Allen cap in one hole.

Well what do you know a GM power steering pump for a Commodore VT and more(most common car on the road here) has the same spacing for the bolts. It fits straight in to the 2F power steering bracket. Off the shelf here fully re-co'd $80Aus.

All I need to do is space the pump to suit the pulley with a few washers or I may even machine up a bronze bush as a spacer. All too easy, the fluid reservoir will be moved to the opposite side away from the heat of the upcoming turbo and exhaust manifold.

One other issue is to fit the pulley to the pump which I will figure out when I swap them over during the engine swap.

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