The plug in the picture at the 2 oclock position is leaking. Engine is out and on an engine stand. What is the best way to remove this plug? What should I replace it with? OEM or an aftermarket expanding type? Thanks in advance for your help.
![Swapin%27motors%20005[1].jpg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='640' height='480' viewBox%3D'0 0 640 480'%2F%3E "Swapin%27motors%20005[1].jpg")
Need help replacing cam plug (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter toyman317
- Start date
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Mark W
Yep, it's true. I just don't care that much.
Just punch it out from the inside.
This is not a freeze plug. It is a very shallow, straight walled plug. Nothing deeper will work here. You may not be able to find it except via the dealer, SOr or other Cruiser (or at least F/2F/3F) oriented supplier
This is not a freeze plug. It is a very shallow, straight walled plug. Nothing deeper will work here. You may not be able to find it except via the dealer, SOr or other Cruiser (or at least F/2F/3F) oriented supplier
Your garage looks just like mine!! Cool
Except that you need to clean yours up like I did
Ed
I had the machine shop do mine, so I am absolutely of no help here. But you already got advice from a Cruiser-made-man.
That the oddball metric plug. A good machine shop should be able to source it.
That oil galley plug looks suspicious... whats up with that?
That is my old '74 F that I gave to IDave. He just posted it to clarify. That is also my nasty-assed garage in the background......
Ed
Ed
Your garage looks just like mine!! Cool
Except that you need to clean yours up like I did
Ed
I had the machine shop do mine, so I am absolutely of no help here. But you already got advice from a Cruiser-made-man.
That is pretty damn funny Ed...
I thought that I had seen the oil smears on the cam plug and that shop vac before...
Yeah that picture has gotten a LOT of milage.
Actually, perhaps I should have asked first, but the way I got that out (yes, the one in the picture!) was to drill a hole in it and work it out with a screwdriver.
Actually, perhaps I should have asked first, but the way I got that out (yes, the one in the picture!) was to drill a hole in it and work it out with a screwdriver.
- Thread starter
- #9
Yes, I cobbed the pic because it was too convenient to do otherwise. My garage looks worse.
Mark. I don't plan to take the engine down so I need to get it out from the outside. I am concerned about drilling a hole in it because of the potential for shavings getting inside. Perhaps putting some grease on the bit will keep that from happening. Sounds like I need to get the new plug from Toyota. Is there any trick to putting it in? Should I put some kind of sealer around the new one?
Thanks guys for the quick responses.
Mark. I don't plan to take the engine down so I need to get it out from the outside. I am concerned about drilling a hole in it because of the potential for shavings getting inside. Perhaps putting some grease on the bit will keep that from happening. Sounds like I need to get the new plug from Toyota. Is there any trick to putting it in? Should I put some kind of sealer around the new one?
Thanks guys for the quick responses.
Coolerman
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You could also just use a small sharp punch to make a small hole for a screw. That way no metal shavings inside.
Another trick to keep metal shavings outside is to magnetize the drill bit or use a small strong magnet right beside the bit as you drill.
If you are totally paranoid about it, use a vac as you drill with a magntized bit AND a magnet beside the hole!
Another trick to keep metal shavings outside is to magnetize the drill bit or use a small strong magnet right beside the bit as you drill.
If you are totally paranoid about it, use a vac as you drill with a magntized bit AND a magnet beside the hole!
I witnessed a wise old man remove a cam plug by poking a hole in the center with a ice pick, screwed a sheet metal screw into the hole, then when it contacted the cam the plug followed the threads of the screw outward. I dunno tho, may have been a fluke deal
You will see that if you get a few shavings in they will be easy to get back out once you get the cap off. I used a small, magnetized bit, then punched it bigger until I could rip my screwdriver in there. It wasn't easy to get out!
Mark W
Yep, it's true. I just don't care that much.
If the cam is in place, it will prevent any metal shaving from going anywhere. Once you have the plug out, just clean them out with air, vacuum, a brush or whatever.
Mark...
Mark...
- Thread starter
- #14
Any tricks on installing a new one? Use a sealant of some sort?
IIRC, when rebuilding a Ford 360 block, my friend and engine master mech. instucted to hit one side of the plug to where the thing will sitting sideways in the hole. Then jank'er out with a pair of visegrips.
I believe we found a socket similar in size when installing.
I believe we found a socket similar in size when installing.
Mark W
Yep, it's true. I just don't care that much.
I don't normally put anything on the plug. Just install it dry. A good silicon wouldn't hurt. Nor would JBweld. I'd chose silicon if I was going to use anythig.
There is not enough room with the cam or the cam bearing in place to punch this plug sideways. Works fine for freeze plugs, but not for cam plugs.
Mark...
There is not enough room with the cam or the cam bearing in place to punch this plug sideways. Works fine for freeze plugs, but not for cam plugs.
Mark...
- Thread starter
- #18
I would want to be very careful not to damage the sides of the hole. JB Weld might make it extremely difficult to replace the plug in the future however, how many years would that be. Is it possible to push the plug in too far and interfere with the cam? Mine seems in there pretty far as it is. At least 1/16 of an inch beyond the block maybe more. Excellent ideas on this task. Any others?
