Long distance expedition cruiser 80vs100

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ranma21

ranma21

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Need any 80 previous owner to help me on this. Currently I have a 95 locked 80 and planning to sell it and get a LX450 if it is in better condition. My 95 has about 138k miles and in very good condition as well. The 80 has arb bull bar, snorkel, ome lifted, t case skid plate and all the up to date maintenance..ready to go any where anytime. I am debating to get a LX450 that I am about to go check it out, black..the color I love. Will transfer all the goodies from my current 80 and put ARB locker in it. Or just get a 99/00 100 series with about 100k miles on it and spend double for what I pay for the LX450 wihout counting the mod to it.

I intend to built a ultimate long haul cross country machine that is able to cross different terrain in different countries in the world. Here comes the concern, is 100 series easier and cheaper to service around the world? I figure 80 series probably is easier to get parts in 3rd world country and probably more mechanic know how to deal with 80 series. Is 80 easier to fix on the trail than 100? Is the cost of owning a 100 higher than 80 in the long run assuming both truck are in top condition to begin with? Whichever cruiser I get will be stay with me for at least 6,7 years or more. I hardly drive my 80 now, is just built for adventure trip and weekend driver.

So is 100 series that much better than 80 LC? I saw some member trade their cruiser back to 80 from 100. Thanks a million for any input. It really bother me since I love cruiser so much wish I have the $$ to own both. I already have 3 cars now and I am the only driver, can't get too many =P
 
well, I would think that for 3rd world countries, the 80 is a better bet, parts and maintenance wise; and perhaps sturdiness / ability wise too...
plus you are less likely to get killed over it...

You must really like black if you are going to trade a VG 80 for a 450 and transfer all the stuff....
 
100 series will be nice, I haven't got a chance to ride in a lifted one. wonder if a lifted one ride much better than lifted 80 in rough trail like schofield, Pearl pass in colorado and as capable? yea...always love a black one, mine is in blue color.:)
 
I use LC100 for expedition purposes. In two weeks I will be taking it to some heavy dune driving (will post pictures, when I come back).
My opinion is: LC105 or LC78 would be better, as they are more popular in 3rd world countries. They don't have a turbo - it means less HP but also one thig less to fail. If you plan to drive in 3rd world countries, get a diesel, as it is usually not possible to get unleaded gasoline. LC100 doesn't have a common rail engine, so it is able to run on a diesel available in 3rd world countries.
I've bought a LC100 as it has more space (I usually travell with my whole family - four people). IFS and wider footprint enables it to carry load on the roof (if you see a picture of a 4x4 that has tipped over it is 99% a Land Rover Defender with load on the roof). Even on expeditions most of the accidents happen on the paved roads.
LC100 is not a 4x4 for heavy offroad (well, some members of this forum might disagree, as they use them even for rockclimbing ;) ), but it is in my opinion one of the best expedition vehiclies.

Which car has won the Paris-Dakar rally in last six or seven years in "stock" 4x4 class?
HDJ100, off course ;).

Regards
Samo
 
ranma21 said:
100 series will be nice, I haven't got a chance to ride in a lifted one. wonder if a lifted one ride much better than lifted 80 in rough trail like schofield, Pearl pass in colorado and as capable? yea...always love a black one, mine is in blue color.:)
Click to expand...

I drove both passes a couple of months ago in my LX. For Schoffield, the disadvantage of the 100 is its width. With the AHC, it was mighty comfy. Brakes are a plus when going downhill. In a section w/ larger rocks, I hit the AHC button for an instant 2" lift. For Pearl Pass...well, any vehicle can go up that, it's just the potholes that slow you down. I even saw a guy towing a boat up it. Either way, the stock suspension is sufficient unless you're carrying a lot of weight.
 
i think gas would be a major issue, i dont have have a LC but i am in research mode and have read some stuff where the 100s need super unleaded gas, witch as stated above the good stuff or even unleaded may not be available. I dont know if that could be fixed with some type of additive or something...

ill take a look at my bookmarks when i have a little more time, there are some expedition sites where rig choice is discussed in detail and of course LC and toyota are a very common(sense) choices.:D

-Mike
 
I agree, parts and service will be better for the 80 in third world countries. Also remember, the 80 shares many drivetrain components with older Cruisers, or can be more easily adapted as such. Maybe fuel as well, though there are other threads concerning octane ratings used in the U.S.-spec 100. Obviously, the best choice would be a foreign-spec diesel truck (either 80 or 105).

The 80 is probably better engineered for rough use over long distance with little support. The 100 has compromises to appeal to a wider market (rack and pinion steering, weak IFS, etc.). Others will debate these opinions, but when you look at those who really use these trucks day after day in extreme conditions and depend on them with their lives, they are usually driving an 80 or solid-front-axle 100 (known as the 105 in some countries), unless they have a very robust support system.

And IMHO black would be a poor choice for an expedition vehicle, especially if you will be hitting any of the warmer climes in Northern Africa, the Middle East, Australia, etc. White is by far the most popular and best choice.
 
Roof-rack loads

SamoL said:
IFS and wider footprint enables it to carry load on the roof (if you see a picture of a 4x4 that has tipped over it is 99% a Land Rover Defender with load on the roof).
Click to expand...

This reminds me of a question:

I saw the Oasis rooftop tents that were talked about in another thread - here's the question: If my factory roof-rack on a 2000 LX has a weight limit of 150lbs, how in the world does it work that it could support 30lbs of tent, and 200lbs of me, plus another 110lbs of person I camp with?

Does it require another crossbar? different roof rack? - I'm pretty sure the thing says it'll work with stock racks...

-LX Pilot
 
LX470Pilot said:
This reminds me of a question:

I saw the Oasis rooftop tents that were talked about in another thread - here's the question: If my factory roof-rack on a 2000 LX has a weight limit of 150lbs, how in the world does it work that it could support 30lbs of tent, and 200lbs of me, plus another 110lbs of person I camp with?

Does it require another crossbar? different roof rack? - I'm pretty sure the thing says it'll work with stock racks...

-LX Pilot
Click to expand...


That rating is dynamic, not static. IOW, that's the safe weight it can carry while on the move. When parked, that's another story, and AFAIK there is no weight rating for that. However, in real-world use it has proven to hold much more. But you still may want to look into an aftermarket system, as I don't kow how strong the factory crossbars are. I do know that some of the high-end rooftop tents (Autohome, Hannibal, Eezi-Awn, Howling Moon) can be run with just a couple of Thule or Yakima crossbars, and those tents weight about four times as much as the Oasis.
 
LX470Pilot said:
This reminds me of a question:

I saw the Oasis rooftop tents that were talked about in another thread - here's the question: If my factory roof-rack on a 2000 LX has a weight limit of 150lbs, how in the world does it work that it could support 30lbs of tent, and 200lbs of me, plus another 110lbs of person I camp with?

Does it require another crossbar? different roof rack? - I'm pretty sure the thing says it'll work with stock racks...
Click to expand...

Well, roof rack of my LC100 can carry 100kg, for LC100 sold in Australia the limit is even 200kg. And they don't seem much different ;)
Remember: this limitations are not for load on a parked car, but for car when offroading. On a parked car you could load at least 500lbs.

Regards
Samo
 
try this out:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=86995

this nice gentleman went through and documented every step in his selection and build-up processes. the linky is at the end of that thread. didn't end up with an LC, or anything near it, but still covers the options and his (thorough) thought process. i believe that christo was instrumental in guiding him.
 
For parts/repairability, I think a BJ60 or HZJ70 w/ 5spd manual is the way to go. You'll find lots of those in places like Africa, Middle East, etc. You definitely want diesel, and an older diesel, not the newer electronic ones that are finicky with the sulfur/water content. I don't think any of the LC's sold in the US are suitable for non-North American travel w/o making some mods. You'll have issues w/ dirty fuel, and I don't think any of the gasoline engines after the 3F/FE like that. Then, as mentioned, you'll need a lot of fuel regardless if it's a FJ60, FZJ80 or UZJ100. Even if you can get a diesel, you'll still need a sub-tank, as you might not encounter a gas station for 1000 miles.
 
dclee said:
Also remember, the 80 shares many drivetrain components with older Cruisers, or can be more easily adapted as such.
Click to expand...

I have seen this statement made before and it confuses me. The only thing that I know of that will interchange with the older cruisers and the FZJ80 is the rear 3rd member and the wheels. I think the 70 series would be closer with the older cruisers. The 55 series and 60 series have alot more shared drive train parts then the 80 series and the 60 series. The FJ62 and FJ80 share alot of drive train parts but I don't think the under powered FJ80 that is at least fourteen years old would be suited to starting around the world travels. The FZJ80 in this country at least is it's own vehicle just as the UZJ100 is. When Toyota dropped the leaf springs, chanced the front third member and switched to the 1ZF engine parts stop being easily adapted.

I would use a diesel cruiser that was from a third world as my base to start with. Steel wheels, hand crank windows, manual transmission plus no emissions. Probably a new 80 series that is still being made somewhere like South America.


John
 
I didn't know the unleaded fuel will be a problem. So my best bet probably is to do a transplant of a diesel engine into a 80 or 100 LC. Probably 80 is cheaper for the diesel swap and easier to obtain a front clip. Does the 80 has a stronger roof since it use the rain gutter for mounting?
 
I think this is a very good discussion. One frequently overlooks the huge difference in infrastructure between the US and 3rd world countries. The gas 80 is indeed a top notch vehicle for the US but a much simpler vehicle would do better under more primitive conditions indeed. And yes, Diesel is a big plus.
 
Living in the Past said:
I have seen this statement made before and it confuses me. The only thing that I know of that will interchange with the older cruisers and the FZJ80 is the rear 3rd member and the wheels.
Click to expand...


Which is more than on a 100.

Anyway, I mostly agree with you, but even then, as you state, there are similarities among the 80 and 60 Series, and by extension 55, 40 (at least for certain drivetrain components), which is more than can be said for the 100. Also, I did say could "be more easily adapted." And not just older Cruisers, but even newer ones that you can't get here, but are often encountered in other countries, e.g. 78 Series Troopies also use the same front axle as the 80, and can be encountered with the same engine, and maybe tranny, etc.

It's all relative. For the two trucks listed as potential candidates, the U.S.-spec 80 has more in common with older, or other, Cruisers than the U.S.-spec 100.

If it were me, I'd take a diesel UNIMOG. Who cares about parts availability if nothing ever breaks? But then, I'm biased... :flipoff2:
 
ranma21 said:
I didn't know the unleaded fuel will be a problem. So my best bet probably is to do a transplant of a diesel engine into a 80 or 100 LC. Probably 80 is cheaper for the diesel swap and easier to obtain a front clip.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't use a heavily modified car for arround the world travel. It will not be reliable as factory produced cars. And spare parts will be harder to obtain.

Regards
Samo
 
oh, the diesel swap will be done with a 80 diesel front clip to make it a factory 80 diesel so it retain the factory reliability. Unless I can find a 100 series diesel front clip, then I will get a LX470 to do the swap.


SamoL said:
I wouldn't use a heavily modified car for arround the world travel. It will not be reliable as factory produced cars. And spare parts will be harder to obtain.

Regards
Samo
Click to expand...
 
I own a 100 now and have owned 2 80's in the past.

I love the 100 and it has taken me to some pretty cool places - for a 4 day trip to Death Valley last March - food, supplies, water, spare parts, tools, roof top tent and fuel - the truck weight was 7180 pounds!

Have you worked on the IFS? There are lots of moving parts - to get to the CV's if it breaks - hub has to come off - bearings - rotors & calipers - upper & lower A-arm ball joints has to come off - need a big hammer to get the CV's off the third member. You will need special tools for the ball joints - if the CV boot rips or cracks - you will also need a special tool for the clamps that keeps the grease from leaking.

The rear axle on the 100 is a semi-floater.

The 80 series front end - no special tools needed - a lot less moving parts - the rear axle is a full floater.

Being in the US - I would use the 100 for day to day, long trips, expedition trips - parts can be available readily and cdan is easy to get a hold off :grinpimp: but outside of the US, I would use the 80 - less moving parts in the front end - they have sold far more 80 series than the 100 series so parts can be easily obtained - even used parts.

I guess I have worked on the front end of the 100 many times - I have cracked the CV and had to replace it - in my garage, wouldn't want do it in the dirt somewhere where it might afffect someone else's vacation since they don't want to leave me there on the side of the road by myself. I've also broken birfields on the 80 - take the driveshaft out, remove broken birfield - lock the center diff and your on your way home. The 100 - you break a CV - unless you have another one with you, your options are very limited - you can take off the CV - be hard to plug that hole you left where the CV was and prevent gear oil from spilling out after you take the driveshaft off and push the center diff lock to get home or to a shop.

But I love the 100, lots of power, smooth, heated seats ... :D

just my 2 cents ...
 
If you use the 80 TD, don't use the earlier ones (pre 96?) since they had problems w/ the big end bearings going bad in Oz. You want the later TD introduced in @'96-97 or the non-turbo 1HZ. I'd imagine a non-turbo would be more reliable than a turbo.

If you use a 60, remember that the US-spec 60's have a semi-floater rear that relies on a C-clip while the overseas ones use a full floater rear. OTOH, if you blow an axle overseas, it should be relatively easy to find an entire full-floater rear end. The additional advantages of the 60 are (1) there are diesel 60's for sale in the US (from Canada or originally sold in the US?) w/o having to do a swap or import a non-North American one plus you can get the 5spd manual from MAF and (2) an even more fool-proof suspension than the 80 (leaf springs and no rods vs. coils w/ lateral rods & upper/lower arms that can dent on rocks). I suppose if you're willing to pay, you can have any engine installed in just about any vehicle.

Why not buy the vehicle overseas? Then you can get a troopie w/ 1HZ diesel and factory snorkel/sub-tank and have lots more space than a 60 or 80 for your gear. If this country didn't have all the import restrictions on foreign vehicles (ie, if it were more like Japan where you just pay $10K to import any vehicle, left or right-hand drive), I would buy a HDJ78 or HZJ105 with manual everything. The Toyota HDJ100's used in Paris-Dakar have manual everything and in left-hand drive.
 
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