6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain

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Carb to Distributor air lines

I believe that is a Weber 32/36, which is nowhere near as much fun as 38/38. C'est la vie.

Moving on: of the two ports under the choke the left one (EGR it seems to be called) is going to the distributor's outer vacuum advance port. The one on the right (vacuum advance, I think) is going to one of the distributor cap vent lines, through that white/blue/black control valve.

I'm not buying it but I don't know how to test the ports until the engine is running. Parts to hopefully make that happen arrive Monday, hopefully.

I'm going to set it up like Jim C says to do:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7957113&postcount=9

carb-to-dizz-2.webp


carb-to-dizz-1.webp
 
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Paints

I'm not endorsing any of these. This is just for documentation purposes. I bought these before reading up on automotive paint. Monochrome except for the temporary, close enough match to faded Freeborn Red on the right.

This is the only non-2K rattle can I can think of that I might buy in the future:
http://www.cruisercorps.com/paint-freeborn-red-aerosol.html

After I burn through these my next experiment will be with a Preval disposable sprayer shooting 2K epoxy primer and topcoating with something that is 2K hardenered. After that it will be time to learn about spray guns and compressors.

And screw these half face NIOSH masks. A couple of hundred dollars towards health insurance sounds like the only way to go:
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=HP

paints.webp
 
Exhaust flange

I had to cut off one of the nuts that connect the header and exhaust pipe. It sounds like replacing all 3 might be a good idea anyway.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/382247-exhaust-manifold-exhaust-flange-nuts.html

The calipers say the OD of the stub pipe on the exhaust flange is 2.5". I have not found a replace gasket nor nuts-and-bolts yet (haven't looked yet). Any suggestions are welcome.

The way the 2" OD exhaust pipe is welded into the 2.5" OD flange-and-pipe-stub looks like it cannot be helping the exhaust flow (and not just because it is stepping down from 2.5" to 2") but I have never done exhaust work before so I am not sure this is as stupid as it looks.

I do have a small MIG welder here, fluxcore only no Ar/CO2. I was planning on getting a mandrel bend and fabricating a solution. The existing exhaust system on the truck is in good shape. It did not have headers though.

exhaust-flange.webp


exhaust-flange-2.webp
 
Exhaust pipe and muffler

The existing exhaust system had the stock exhaust manifold attached to a custom setup that is in good shape. The stock muffler I know to have a very few thousand miles on it, as I bought it NOS a few years ago.

The pipe from the exhaust manifold to the muffler is 2.25" OD. The muffler input on back is 2" OD.

In the previous posting, the flang-and-stub-pipe are 2.5" OD. With zero previous exhaust welding experience (this pig pretty much forced me to pull the trigger on getting into the welding game), I'm thinking I might use the 2.25" OD pipe plus a 2.25" OD mandrel bend to get from the header to the muffler, around the motor mount on the flywheel house, using my 110v welder (fluxcore, no Ar/CO2 gas available). Ugly but good learning experience. I'll re-clamp the muffler and tail pipe and weld those on after testing for heat in the cabin. Also that way if I change things I'll be back at my main base where I have a AR/CO2 tank and more of a welding kit in general.

I would like to hang the muffler outside the frame rail for cabin cooling reasons but that looks more complicated and would leave the system exposed to damage (it would be outside the transmission under cover and somehow would have to cross over or under the frame rail). So, I think the first pass will be to hang it inside the frame rail and it that proves too hot then do something more complicated down the road.

Opinions and advice are most welcome.

exhaust.webp
 
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NAPA Rust Treatment, part duh

Back in post #78 I reported on my experiment with NAPA Rust Treatment. I wasn't happy with the adhesion.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8809237&postcount=78

This afternoon I have been removing what I had applied. Here are two pictures of the progress. Indeed, where the bare metal is in good shape (i.e. no pitted and completely rust free) the Rust Treatment flaked of way too easily with a fine wire cup on a drill. But where it is pitted and I had not removed all the rust, it holds pretty good. The deeper the rust the harder it is to get off.

So, this might well be me applying the stuff in the wrong context. I'll have to run another experiment on some heavily rusted metal. I wonder if this is what is called "rust encapsulation" because there still rust below the hard purple surface.

In the second picture my index finger is pointing to the stuff before I hit it with the wire wheel. It's purple and notice the brown of rust below the surface. My pinky is pointing at pitted metal that still had rust in it and to which the Rust Treatment bound well and was difficult to remove. Between those two finger is bare metal in good shape where the stuff just flaked off.

fender-apron-1.webp


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Presumed Weber 32/36 vacuum ports

I'm pretty sure the carb on the donor 2F is a Weber 32/36. Here are the two vacuum ports under the auto choke. I am coming to the conclusion that I should just cap the left one (the inside of the vacuum port tube is threaded so the cap is a screw?). The right one should go to the distributor vacuum advance can's outer port, as the inner one would possibly provide too much advance.

See Post #81 for more info:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8809693&postcount=81

I'm learning as I go on this front so any advice is welcome.

weber-vacuum-ports.webp
 
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I run desmogged with my pig and 86 2F carb. heck, I'm not even running vac advance right now and it doesn't seem to need it. all I use vac for is the choke opener, the dizzy vent, evap, and hot idle air diaphram.
 
Perhaps I should just dial the vac stuff in after I get the engine running. Water pump pulley should show up today, along with new dizz cap and rotor. Hopefully I've got all the pieces I need to get this 2F running.

So, main carb issue now is just to get all the 6 year old gas out of it. I'm hoping that can be drained simply by exercising the throttle for a bit. On the other hand I wouldn't be surprised if there's a carb rebuild coming up.
 
Door threshold scuff plates

Holy moly rust mitigation just sucks all the fun out of the room.

For a morale boost I checked out some more of the bits I pulled off the donor FJ60. Here's the dark gray plastic FJ60 scuff plate just sitting on the door sill. Looks like with just a bit of trimming it will work well for now. The screw holes do not line up but some trim adhesive should address that.

Eventually I'll get around to gladly giving bobm some of my money. I'll have to take stock of just how many bits I'll be getting from him and save on shipping with one big order. That's way down the road though so for now I'll try this.

Here's bobm's scuff plate eye candy:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...s-floor-supports-rockers-rear-corners-23.html

scuff-plate.webp
 
Water pump pulleys

Left to right:

1. 6/72 FJ55 F
2. The double wide deep dish 1/75-8/76 FJ40 and 1/75-1/79 FJ55 (SOR#: 054-013D-U)
3. ?/84 FJ60 2F

Hard to tell from the pictures but the first two have interchangeable interfaces to the water pump, but the third one will not swap with the other two.

water-pump-pulleys-1.webp


water-pump-pulleys-2.webp


water-pump-pulleys-3.webp
 
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