Why did you go so far as to remove the sound deadening? Why didn't you just put more over it?
83 FJ60 Build up thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Project60
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
nice job... you need a rotisserie
- Thread starter
- #344
Because every time I remove something, I find more rust. I didn't take a picture yet, but the rear floor has rust as well under the sound deadening.
I 100% agree! That was one of my biggest mistakes so far.
Yes, I did spray the inside of the quarter panels. The water ran out of the giant rust holes!
No problem getting rid of the water!
- Thread starter
- #345
Sound Deadening Removal
Got about 2hr 15min on the 60 this weekend. I got all the sound deadening out. Wasn't too bad using the air chisel on the floors and firewall... just don't stay in one spot too long :whoops:. I had to use a torch and scrape the stuff from the insides of rear quarter panels, that was fun!
Sound Deadening Removed:
Rust on driver side floor under sound deadening:
Oops... don't stay in one spot too long!
Rear quarter panel sound deadening removed:
Got about 2hr 15min on the 60 this weekend. I got all the sound deadening out. Wasn't too bad using the air chisel on the floors and firewall... just don't stay in one spot too long :whoops:. I had to use a torch and scrape the stuff from the insides of rear quarter panels, that was fun!
Sound Deadening Removed:
Rust on driver side floor under sound deadening:
Oops...
don't stay in one spot too long!
Rear quarter panel sound deadening removed:
- Thread starter
- #346
Presents!
Oh, I almost forgot to mention that I got some presents in the mail on Friday. My epoxy primer and paint prep supplies came from www.smartshoppers.com - good price, I will let you know what I think of the quality later.
Oh, I almost forgot to mention that I got some presents in the mail on Friday. My epoxy primer and paint prep supplies came from www.smartshoppers.com - good price, I will let you know what I think of the quality later.
- Thread starter
- #347
Spot Welds and Paint Booth
Got an hour on the 60 last night.
I tried a few different methods of removing spot welds. Seems like the best was a 1/8" pilot with the 3/8" spot weld cutter. Using a regular drill bit as the spot weld cutter wasn't bad, but there are a couple of full holes now.
The only thing I can't figure out yet is how to separate the panels without damaging them? Any thoughts?
I started work on the paint booth as well. I will post pics up tomorrow after I get a little farther.
Got an hour on the 60 last night.
I tried a few different methods of removing spot welds. Seems like the best was a 1/8" pilot with the 3/8" spot weld cutter. Using a regular drill bit as the spot weld cutter wasn't bad, but there are a couple of full holes now
.The only thing I can't figure out yet is how to separate the panels without damaging them? Any thoughts?
I started work on the paint booth as well. I will post pics up tomorrow after I get a little farther.
Bead Blast?
Have you considered bringing the truck to a Bead blast or sand blast facility? they should be able to get all the way down to the metal.
Have you considered bringing the truck to a Bead blast or sand blast facility? they should be able to get all the way down to the metal.
- Thread starter
- #349
Paint Booth
Sorry all for the lack of updates, I have been out of town for 3 weeks and just got back into it this week. I wanted to wait for an update until this part was complete.
I spent 12 hours over the course of the last few days making a paint booth out of 1x3" pine and 1 mil plastic. I must admit, the 1 mil is a little thin for those looking to do the same, but it is patchable with duct tape!
Paint Booth 1:
Paint Booth 2:
Inlet filter is 3 times 16x20 furnace filters:
Rear portion is removable so that I can roll the body in and out. I put a door with hinges on too so I can get in/out easily:
Sorry all for the lack of updates, I have been out of town for 3 weeks and just got back into it this week. I wanted to wait for an update until this part was complete.
I spent 12 hours over the course of the last few days making a paint booth out of 1x3" pine and 1 mil plastic. I must admit, the 1 mil is a little thin for those looking to do the same, but it is patchable with duct tape!
Paint Booth 1:
Paint Booth 2:
Inlet filter is 3 times 16x20 furnace filters:
Rear portion is removable so that I can roll the body in and out. I put a door with hinges on too so I can get in/out easily:
- Thread starter
- #350
Body Work
Got 1 hour on the 60 this morning. I used the 3/8" spot weld remover bit and started to remove the cowl. I had to use the air hammer to help separate the panels... I will have to hammer some pieces back into shape as it is not the most gentle of tools!
Driver side of cowl:
Got 1 hour on the 60 this morning. I used the 3/8" spot weld remover bit and started to remove the cowl. I had to use the air hammer to help separate the panels... I will have to hammer some pieces back into shape as it is not the most gentle of tools!
Driver side of cowl:
- Thread starter
- #351
I have thought about it. Problem is they are going to want $400 or more (even seen over a $1000 to do the underside). I don't think this project justifies the cost.
Plus, I want to do all the body work/rust repairs before I go into big scale paint removal application.
I will probably shop around and see how much it costs... I REALLY don't want to lay on my back and wire wheel the crap off the bottom.
paint removal
Cool project. I was watching Trucks this morning on powerblock and they had a media blasting kit that used baking soda. it seemed pretty cheap for the kit and it just washes away with no effect to the enviroment. it won't warp the metal and it only removes paint and primer. thought I'd share.
Cool project. I was watching Trucks this morning on powerblock and they had a media blasting kit that used baking soda. it seemed pretty cheap for the kit and it just washes away with no effect to the enviroment. it won't warp the metal and it only removes paint and primer. thought I'd share.
- Thread starter
- #353
Cowl Removal
Got 2hr 15 minutes between last night and tonight. I spent the time drilling out spot welds and removing the cowl.
The air hammer has a tendency to bend the metal up, so I had to hammer it flat again after I was all done. The 3/8" spot weld remover bit ($4 at HF) worked the best. I think I had to remove 50 spot welds to get the cowl off.
I spent some time grinding/flap disc sanding/3m pad removing/wire wheeling the rust off. I think I enjoy sandblasting more. The wire wheel simply polished everything. The grinding was ok but was harsh, the 3m type wheel shattered the instant it hit a spot weld. The flap disc worked the best for "paint and rust removal"... none were as effective as sandblasting.
Cowl Removed:
Driver side seam:
Passenger side:
Rust around window frame. This will have to be cut out and re-welded:
Got 2hr 15 minutes between last night and tonight. I spent the time drilling out spot welds and removing the cowl.
The air hammer has a tendency to bend the metal up, so I had to hammer it flat again after I was all done. The 3/8" spot weld remover bit ($4 at HF) worked the best. I think I had to remove 50 spot welds to get the cowl off
.I spent some time grinding/flap disc sanding/3m pad removing/wire wheeling the rust off. I think I enjoy sandblasting more
. The wire wheel simply polished everything. The grinding was ok but was harsh, the 3m type wheel shattered the instant it hit a spot weld. The flap disc worked the best for "paint and rust removal"... none were as effective as sandblasting.Cowl Removed:
Driver side seam:
Passenger side:
Rust around window frame. This will have to be cut out and re-welded:
- Thread starter
- #354
Unfortunately I am tired of blasting at home. The mess is just unbearable and the equipment I have just takes too long. I think I am going to get a quote to media blast the whole body. I am thinking anywhere from $400 to $1000 for the whole thing.
I am still going to do all the patch panels first, then trailer it off for someone to help out. If I have to do all the paint removal, the truck will be in the garage til my kids go through college!
- Thread starter
- #355
Media Blasting
Well, I found a place in Denver that will media blast the body for me. A verbal quote was $450-$500, not bad in my opinion. They will be using star blast which I have read won't warp panels. Based on the mess and time, this is WELL worth it.
I will get all the patch panels and rust repair done, then get the whole thing blasted, then epoxy prime all at one time!
Now I just need to find a trailer to haul it around town...
Well, I found a place in Denver that will media blast the body for me. A verbal quote was $450-$500, not bad in my opinion. They will be using star blast which I have read won't warp panels. Based on the mess and time, this is WELL worth it.
I will get all the patch panels and rust repair done, then get the whole thing blasted, then epoxy prime all at one time!
Now I just need to find a trailer to haul it around town...
blast
That is a pretty good deal.
On another project, I was looking at quotes ~800.
Just be careful that you dont get flash rust. Maybe spray a fast sand/weld primer.
PS Keep up the great work..
That is a pretty good deal.
On another project, I was looking at quotes ~800.
Just be careful that you dont get flash rust. Maybe spray a fast sand/weld primer.
PS Keep up the great work..
- Thread starter
- #357
Cowl Repair
Got 2.5 hours on the 60 between last night and today. I had some clean up to do and fixing my air regulator on my compressor, then I got to work on the 60.
I decided to start on the cowl repair. The sequence of repair is pretty straight forward. Cut out rusty metal, cut out clean metal to replace, weld, grind. I'll show once for the peanut gallery, then I will just do a before/after shot from now on as it is time consuming.
I would show the finished product on this one, but I am going to need a copper backing plate to weld. My welder is just too hot at it's lowest settings to not burn through. Great thing about sheet is that it's easy to cut and shape... but no fun to weld!
Spot to repair:
Piece Removed:
Piece pounded flat and traced onto 18 gauge sheet:
I used a 3" cut off wheel and/or the shear to cut the metal:
New metal beside old:
Got 2.5 hours on the 60 between last night and today. I had some clean up to do and fixing my air regulator on my compressor, then I got to work on the 60.
I decided to start on the cowl repair. The sequence of repair is pretty straight forward. Cut out rusty metal, cut out clean metal to replace, weld, grind. I'll show once for the peanut gallery, then I will just do a before/after shot from now on as it is time consuming.
I would show the finished product on this one, but I am going to need a copper backing plate to weld. My welder is just too hot at it's lowest settings to not burn through. Great thing about sheet is that it's easy to cut and shape... but no fun to weld!
Spot to repair:
Piece Removed:
Piece pounded flat and traced onto 18 gauge sheet:
I used a 3" cut off wheel and/or the shear to cut the metal:
New metal beside old:
- Thread starter
- #358
Cowl Repair
Got 3.5 hours on the 60 today over two sessions. Wow!
It was definitely a learning day! I have never welded thin metal... it kicked my butt!
I did finally finish welding in a section on the cowl. I had to learn and read some over the course of the day just to get as far as I did. It is not pretty, but I am getting better! Luckily, what I worked on is hidden by the windshield gasket.
Funny thing is, after learning - I redid a small section and I cut out the old, made a new piece, and welded it back in - 15 total minutes.
Tips:
After:
Got 3.5 hours on the 60 today over two sessions. Wow!
It was definitely a learning day! I have never welded thin metal... it kicked my butt!I did finally finish welding in a section on the cowl. I had to learn and read some over the course of the day just to get as far as I did. It is not pretty, but I am getting better! Luckily, what I worked on is hidden by the windshield gasket.
Funny thing is, after learning - I redid a small section and I cut out the old, made a new piece, and welded it back in - 15 total minutes
.Tips:
- Use low setting and low gauge on the welder.
- My weld only has 4 heat settings. The lowest was not low enough. After reading around, I set my welder up for flux core wire (positive on work piece, not the wire). This actually reduces the heat to the workpiece and moves it to the wire. This worked great!!! I could actually make a small spot weld without burning a hole.
- Get a auto darkening welding helmet. It wasn't a big deal on this stuff 'cause you lay a bead. But for spot welds it really helped out!
- Don't use a grinding wheel to smooth out the spot welds on thin gauge. Use a flap disk. I spent half my time repairing where I burned through the steel with the grinder.
After:
- Thread starter
- #359
Cargo Area Floor Removal
I did get some time in removing the spot welds in the back too while the welds were cooling. Only 50+ more to go!
Cargo area:
I did get some time in removing the spot welds in the back too while the welds were cooling. Only 50+ more to go!
Cargo area:
Lookin Good!
Kudos for sticking with it!
It is amazing what you have done thus far.....
Kudos for sticking with it!
It is amazing what you have done thus far.....
