My TLC experience (2 Viewers)

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I wanted it off my list and it was quick and easy.

Put together a new shelf base for when the drawers aren't in.

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You know what they say, happy puppy, less shoveling.

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I've got extra hinges, probably a few decent green ones actually... I'll have to check when I get stuff dug out here soon for spring.


You're in Minnesota. Are you on the whatsapp text?

I get so confused when things cross platforms
 
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Started in on this project again. Machining some center caps to cover up the flange on the end of the rear axle shafts.


Front Side

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Backside.
The six small round pockets will be for neodynium magnets. I think that'll hold them in place? Along with a .010" gap around the outside to the wheel.
I think. Probably. Maybe....

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and the hole I'm trying to shove these into.

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I need to cut one out of mdf to see if my clearancing on the back works, and if I like the dimensions of everything. Shouldn't be too bad on machine time. Last time I started this, it was something like 15 minutes to do the front face. I should probably make a third one to go on the spare as well.
 
ADHD and projects....

Made this little plate to use a mounting ball at the top of the windshield.
I'm ordering up a Garmin Tread for navigation in the 40, and thought above the windshield would ne the best place to do so since there is an acre of real estate between the mirror and the headliner.
Being in the shade, glare shouldn't be in issue.

I'll have to see when the device shows up.


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I'm going to be running two cameras through the GPS as well. One for the rear and one on the front somewhere. I haven't figure out where those are going to be placed yet.
 
Test cut on the center caps.
I have to do flip operations and I didn't fixture it very well so my cut from front to back isn't spot on.
No big deal, I'll do something smarter when I cut the finals.

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Since I fired up the cnc on Zombie Jesus day, I cut out the final version of the rear speaker enclosures.

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I soaked all of the cut edges in thin CA glue. That worked really well. Everything was much easier to sand smooth. I think it'll be adding durability as well. Which probably doesn't matter that much spice they will be getting coated with bedliner worth the tub.

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And sanded smooth. Super weird looking how the glue soaked in and made a fake grain.

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I'm coating the inside with epoxy as well.

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Not related to the 40....

Chris needed something to haul fuel on the flatbed of the Hilux.

May I present, The Dixin Fuel Caddy.

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Moral of the story, don't give me the opportunity to be a dick.
We’d get along.
Awhile back when I had my vinyl plotter running, I made a bunch of tiny dicks out of black vinyl. I stick them on people’s back up cameras and it makes the perfect fuzzy dick silhouette on the screen.
Hilarity ensues.
 
Test cut on the center caps.
I have to do flip operations and I didn't fixture it very well so my cut from front to back isn't spot on.
No big deal, I'll do something smarter when I cut the finals.

View attachment 3595646

View attachment 3595647


Since I fired up the cnc on Zombie Jesus day, I cut out the final version of the rear speaker enclosures.

View attachment 3595648


I soaked all of the cut edges in thin CA glue. That worked really well. Everything was much easier to sand smooth. I think it'll be adding durability as well. Which probably doesn't matter that much spice they will be getting coated with bedliner worth the tub.

View attachment 3595649


And sanded smooth. Super weird looking how the glue soaked in and made a fake grain.

View attachment 3595650

View attachment 3595651


I'm coating the inside with epoxy as well.

View attachment 3595652
Shellac on the edges of MDF works really well for sanding back. It’s also hypoallergenic and nontoxic so you can eat it if hungry. I also like to finish MDF with cold galvanized spray and rub it back, looks like steel if done right. A rag works fine.
 
Shellac on the edges of MDF works really well for sanding back. It’s also hypoallergenic and nontoxic so you can eat it if hungry. I also like to finish MDF with cold galvanized spray and rub it back, looks like steel if done right. A rag works fine.


The CA glue worked really well. Like I'm blown away how well. It reminded me of sanding fibreglass.

I still have a few cuts to make, but I also need to throw some filler at it to fill little gaps in the stacks. I need to get the 40 to the shop and yank the beta boxes so I can get some measurements and figure out where I mounted the wire terminals.

I threw some primer at them today. I probably won't be able to get at them for again for a couple of weekends. The roads are coated in salt again,

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I'm real close on the center caps. The face of the axle flange isn't flat and is creating some issues that I think I have a resolution for. Until I get the face fitting the flange nicely, I can't set the actual thickness of things. These will be cut from a resin material for the final. Same stuff I made the switch panel and radio face plate from. I'll paint the recessed area silver to match(ish) the wheels.

(Screw in the face so I can actually grab it)

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The cameras for the Garmin showed up yesterday. Took a look at placement options.
I don't like my options.
For the rear this was the simplest solution, but I've got a feeling being that far off center will bug me and the tire will block a lot of vision. Above the center of the ambulance doors is likely the best spot and also the worst for running the wiring.
I've got a 2" thick block of black UHMW plastic that I might try and mill out some mounting options. Or.... I'll stop being a bitch and just get a 3D printer and learn how to use it to make something

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That does tuck up there nicely.

EXACTLY how I was hoping. My only complaint is the thickness of the magnetic mount pushes it aft more than I'd care for, but nothing I can do about it. So not a problem. Is what it is.
 
I don't care for how the front camera looks where it is sitting, but I think that is the most out of the way place.

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Image is really good. I have it being trigger off of a relay in the console. The rear I think I'm going to put that on the switch for the rear auxiliary lights. So when they come on, either manually or when going into reverse, it kicks the rear camera on. I need a mounting solution for that yet and I haven't come up with anything good

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The note on the screen makes me chuckle. I thought that's why I added the camera?

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For perspective, I can't see the front bumper at all while seated.

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Just stuck the rear camera onto the back with magnets above the ambulance door and snuck it over the seal by the latch.

I think that's a good as is going to get. I made a little section with two plugs to spice into the harness I made for the rear Rigid lights. Using it today, I'm not really a fan of that setup.
Two reasons.
1. If I want to turn the camera on for whatever reason the reverse lights need to be on. Sometimes you don't want that.
2. I have it so the camera wire goes inside, then back out again through the marker light grommet. That seems dumb with some afterthought. I can run the wire inside, and just tap into the power that is already in the console. I'll put it on a two pole switch so it'll be ON with reverse. Off. Or just ON regardless of being in reverse or not.
Easy enough to do. Why not have options.

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I can connect the dog's collar to it too. That's freaking awesome. I can't shock the shiz out of her with it, but I really don't have to do that often anyways.

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Went for a drive to the local Toyota dealership. Did you know you can still buy new rear view mirrors? The plastic on my original looks like it's two weeks away from turning to dust. $58 with tax. That's hard to beat.

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Made a little housing/bracket/mounting thingamawidget for the rear camera.

Turned out alright. I dig it.
As always should've done some things differently, but nothing worthy of garbage can.
No cnc action on this. I didn't have the patience to model it. I do wish I had a mill. Would've been a while lot safer and smarter than how I did it. 😆

I put 3 neodymium magnets epoxied into the plasticto hold it on the vehicle. Put a piece of rubber grip tape across the whole back face of the mount.

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Started in on this project again. Machining some center caps to cover up the flange on the end of the rear axle shafts.


Front Side

View attachment 3590189


Backside.
The six small round pockets will be for neodynium magnets. I think that'll hold them in place? Along with a .010" gap around the outside to the wheel.
I think. Probably. Maybe....

View attachment 3590190


and the hole I'm trying to shove these into.

View attachment 3590203


I need to cut one out of mdf to see if my clearancing on the back works, and if I like the dimensions of everything. Shouldn't be too bad on machine time. Last time I started this, it was something like 15 minutes to do the front face. I should probably make a third one to go on the spare as well.
do you have the round TEQ door access covers. I saw a 3d print file for them but the owner wanted $15 for the file.
 
Made a little housing/bracket/mounting thingamawidget for the rear camera.

Turned out alright. I dig it.
As always should've done some things differently, but nothing worthy of garbage can.
No cnc action on this. I didn't have the patience to model it. I do wish I had a mill. Would've been a while lot safer and smarter than how I did it. 😆

I put 3 neodymium magnets epoxied into the plasticto hold it on the vehicle. Put a piece of rubber grip tape across the whole back face of the mount.

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What camera did you use
 

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