What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (31 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Not sure why anyone would trade out the Slee for an ARB. That Slee is just about the best looking best built bumper for a 100 series. Just my opinion
You are not wrong that Slee is baddass built and good looking bumper. I wanted some more protection higher up and have always loved the look of the ARB's.
 
Finally got around to redo the previous owners air gauge install, and coupled it with an isolator override switch. (Monetary "boost" function
or latching "winch")
Will probably make a few more versions before I am completely happy but this will do!
Left USB outlet shows main and aux battery V.
Cigarette outlet is rated for 25A's should be enough to power my 300W inverter safely.
Also trying to source a new surrounding for the cig-outlet as it's been previously mended, or I will just re glue the
missing piece. Also pondering if I should make a hole over the cigarette outlet for the oem ashtray light but I think I don't want more
light down there.

When I bought the cruiser (terrible pic)
Screenshot 2024-03-06 at 19.12.01.png


Test mount with oem meter and a separate monetary switch
IMG_2091.JPG


After

IMG_4338.JPG
 
You are not wrong that Slee is baddass built and good looking bumper. I wanted some more protection higher up and have always loved the look of the ARB's.
I get it. I’m in SoCal and we don’t deal with trees when we’re out and about in the desert. If I was in a different area I’d want more protection also.
 
New Falken Wildpeak AT4W tires including the spare. Stuck with 285/75r16. My KO2’s were 8-9 years old based on the production codes and dry rotting pretty badly.

So far I’m very pleased, but I’ve only got a few miles in them. They’re quieter than the KO2 and might ride a little softer, but it’s really too soon to say. The new AT4W is quite a beefy tire and I can see why the weight has increased.

79645300-FEBA-4D47-90AF-4EB9C5A58FA5.jpeg


52CB75EC-681B-4964-B658-4E91597341E5.jpeg
 
New Falken Wildpeak AT4W tires including the spare. Stuck with 285/75r16. My KO2’s were 8-9 years old based on the production codes and dry rotting pretty badly.

So far I’m very pleased, but I’ve only got a few miles in them. They’re quieter than the KO2 and might ride a little softer, but it’s really too soon to say. The new AT4W is quite a beefy tire and I can see why the weight has increased.

View attachment 3575516

View attachment 3575517
Love those! They look "chonkier" than the press shots. This is my next tire.
Did they balance out easy?

Edit: Wow, 255/85R16 A/T4W's have disappeared off the face of the earth...gonna need to rethink size and maybe even wheels...
 
Last edited:
Started refreshing my engine bay by swapping out the old rusted (and nearly gone) battery hold down, new hood lock, new hood bumpers.

IMG_7844.jpeg


IMG_7845.jpeg
 
Love those! They look "chonkier" than the press shots. This is my next tire.
Did they balance out easy?

Definitely “chunkier” than the AT3W and more than I was expecting. My wife commented on it too. Can’t wait to get the in the dirt and see how they do!

As for balancing, the least required was 40g and most 95g or 1.4 to 3.3 ounces. I don’t know enough about tire balancing to comment if that’s good or bad.
 
Trying out a little makeshift wireless charger setup.. So far so good for less than $20. I cut down some hard foam packaging I had laying around and just laid it in there and put a bar stop at the bottom with double sided tape to butt the phone up against and two side stops (they need to be bigger/ stronger), but it charges fast!
IMG_4634.jpeg



IMG_4635.jpeg

IMG_0220.jpeg
 
Looking forward to it. I'm a mechanic and have replaced many racks. Just not on a 100. Taking the path of raising the engine instead of removing the oil housing.

I'm going to go with oem rubber on the driver side small bushings. Then install a super pro larger bushing on the passenger side.
Had mine replaced a couple weeks ago. The mechanic said that he disassembled the rack to get it into place and reassembled it to avoid raising the engine.
 
There should be some improvement due to material strength of the bracket. But you’re 100% right that the optimal condition is bolted on the bottom as well. This will allow the bracket to change the assembly’s ‘polar moment’, which is enginerd talk for strength against bending.

My thinking was it would double up the thickness where the torsion bracket bolts to. Since those 2 holes are where they crack.

I work for a shop that specializes in Land Cruisers. Have installed probably a dozen lift kits on 100 series and most of those include this torsion bar support plate. I dislike the fact the brace isn't flush to the bottom of the LCA. When the torsion bar bracket is tightened, there is a definite gap on the bottom side. Then when you install the lower bolts/nuts into the drilled holes, the thick plate is forced to bend as you tighten them. It's a lot of force and makes me think it's unnecessary stress on all parts involved.
 
I replaced valve cover gaskets, tube seals, pcv valve , hoses, water pump, oil pump, oil cooler seal and hoses, timing idler, tensioner, tensioner pulley, timing belt, serpentine idler and tensioner pulleys. Dropped both oil pans, removed front diff, removed cv drive shafts and axle hubs, ball joints. Going to drop tranny soon and replace rear main seal and compressor, evaporator, expansion valve and drier.
 
I replaced valve cover gaskets, tube seals, pcv valve , hoses, water pump, oil pump, oil cooler seal and hoses, timing idler, tensioner, tensioner pulley, timing belt, serpentine idler and tensioner pulleys. Dropped both oil pans, removed front diff, removed cv drive shafts and axle hubs, ball joints. Going to drop tranny soon and replace rear main seal and compressor, evaporator, expansion valve and drier.
Holy baseline Batman. I’m working through a similar list. 💪
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom