0W-20 in a 2uz for short trips? (1 Viewer)

[Tareq]

During the last 2 years, I have been driving my LC for about 3k miles per year, mostly short distances of 2 or 5 miles between home and work.

I have been using 5w-30 or 0w-30 M1 with YZZD3.

Engine has almost 80k miles.

No signs of condensation or foaming under the oil cap, always clean!

I have read some 2uz owners using 0w-20 in cold Alberta and hot Texas, but no Blackstone reports shared.

I was wondering if making the switch is beneficial for my type of repeated short distance commutes?

 

[Rhetoric]

Oil advice can be a black hole of awfulness... so here we go.

You'd be better served running some sort of oil pan heater or engine block heater than changing the viscosity of your oil for short trips.

I would not want to go below a 30wt for the hot viscosity, personally. I want that protection when the engine is up to temp and I'm not trying to win any fuel economy challenges by going thinner.

 

[jLB]

Why try to outthink the guys that engineered the engine?

I can maybe see compensating the low number for cold weather, but why monkey with the high number?

 

[Mike NXP]

During the last 2 years, I have been driving my LC for about 3k miles per year, mostly short distances of 2 or 5 miles between home and work.

I have been using 5w-30 or 0w-30 M1 with YZZD3.

Engine has almost 80k miles.

No signs of condensation or foaming under the oil cap, always clean!

I have read some 2uz owners using 0w-20 in cold Alberta and hot Texas, but no Blackstone reports shared.

I was wondering if making the switch is beneficial for my type of repeated short distance commutes?

My opinion is to stick with what toyota recommends or do the oil analysis to make a decision based on facts. The cruiser starts for me in -20 or less with just a battery warmer / tender and the slight difference in oil viscosity shouldn't make a difference for cold weather starts. The newer vehicles seem to be more accommodating to the 0 weight.

I'm sure it's fine, it's just oil, but again I would stick with what toyota recommends

What I would be more concerned with your short length of driving and only 3k per year. It's never ideal for a vehicle to barely get to operating temps before shutting down and starting all over again. Should take her out on the highway once a month and let it burn off some of the nasty stuff.

 

[Tareq]

What I would be more concerned with your short length of driving and only 3k per year. It's never ideal for a vehicle to barely get to operating temps before shutting down and starting all over again. Should take her out on the highway once a month and let it burn off some of the nasty stuff.

Thank you, this is what I do!
The vehicle does reach operating temp before I arrive to my destination, and I do take it on the HWY once a week for 5 miles or so.
That is why the oil cap is always clean with no foaming in it.
I was just wondering if I should make the switch to make it easier on the engine during cold weather and short commutes.
I read people using the 20 grade but no analysis on the oil shared.
I don't mind to keep using 30 and just take her on the HWY more often.

 

[Mike NXP]

Thank you, this is what I do!
The vehicle does reach operating temp before I arrive to my destination, and I do take it on the HWY once a week for 5 miles or so.
That is why the oil cap is always clean with no foaming in it.
I was just wondering if I should make the switch to make it easier on the engine during cold weather and short commutes.
I read people using the 20 grade but no analysis on the oil shared.
I don't mind to keep using 30 and just take her on the HWY more often.

right on, suppose it's just personal opinion at that point. Would be cool to run it and send it off to blackstone to see some numbers. I'm sticking with 5w30 .

If it aint broke.....fix it till it is.

 

[Rhetoric]

As another data point: I ran Delvac 1 5w40 in my truck after getting it. I had a stash from my former TDI and figured it wouldn’t hurt anything since globally the 2UZ is spec’d for 5w40…

The engine is back on a diet of M1 EP 5w30 now. Oil pressure gauge reads a bit lower than with the 5w40 otherwise I notice no difference.

I wouldnt over think it. As long as you keep any oil in a 2UZ and maintain the cooling system you will be set for an easy 500k miles.

 

[Tareq]

As another data point: I ran Delvac 1 5w40 in my truck after getting it. I had a stash from my former TDI and figured it wouldn’t hurt anything since globally the 2UZ is spec’d for 5w40…

The engine is back on a diet of M1 EP 5w30 now. Oil pressure gauge reads a bit lower than with the 5w40 otherwise I notice no difference.

I wouldnt over think it. As long as you keep any oil in a 2UZ and maintain the cooling system you will be set for an easy 500k miles.

I appreciate the extra input.
I would probably stick to 30 and just drive longer sometimes, but this testimony from another member is also encouraging!

+2
I have been on 0-w20 for the last 100000km. If anything I think if has helped with fuel economy =]
I am in canada though hottest it ever gets here is around 30 degrees celsius. Its an average -1 here now during winter and I think it has helped greatly at morning startups

Will make the decision on my next oil change

 

[suprarx7nut]

OEM or analysis.

Anything else is just hot air.

As it turns out, there's an entire industry dedicated to oil selection. Oddly forum enthusiasts don't quite know as much as the people focusing on oil for a career.

Some OEM specs are tainted towards mileage improvements, but aside form that the OEM specs are always safe.

0-40 for me, but honestly just keep it full of oil. It's fine. The 2UZ is not a finicky and glorious Ferrari engine... unfortunately.

 

[jLB]

The 2UZ is not a finicky and glorious Ferrari engine... unfortunately.

Or fortunately. I foolishly looked at picking up a Ferrari at one point in time, up to the point where the $10,000 service, where the engine had to be pulled, was explained to me. At this point, I don’t remember if that was a 15k or 30k interval, but it makes 90k/7 year timing belts seem trivial.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Or fortunately. I foolishly looked at picking up a Ferrari at one point in time, up to the point where the $10,000 service, where the engine had to be pulled, was explained to me. At this point, I don’t remember if that was a 15k or 30k interval, but it makes 90k/7 year timing belts seem trivial.

If the sound of those engines at redline doesn't evoke enough emotion to overcome the rational concern of the cost you're probably smarter than I.

 

[jLB]

If the sound of those engines at redline doesn't evoke enough emotion to overcome the rational concern of the cost you're probably smarter than I.

Love the sound, but at some point in my life I’d like to retire. I didn’t see that happening if I bought a Ferrari.

Maybe this would be less service intensive, and still make “pretty noises”



Not terribly affordable though.

 

[Tareq]

Will add this for future reference for anyone searching the issue.

Toyota TSB EG018-06​

ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL
RECOMMENDATION

EG018-06 Toyota Technical Service Bulletin

EG018-06 Toyota Technical Service Bulletin

www.tsbsearch.com

 

[jOnathN]

That image is a little fuzzy for me (but thank you for posting regardless). If I am reading right, the short story is:
1) ILSAC GF-4 SAE 5w20 is acceptable for our UZ series motors
2) ILSAC GF-4 SAE 0w20 should *not* be used in our UZ motors, because “These low-viscosity oils cannot maintain lubrication effectiveness in engines with older designs”

Do I have that right?

 

[Tareq]

That image is a little fuzzy for me (but thank you for posting regardless). If I am reading right, the short story is:
1) ILSAC GF-4 SAE 5w20 is acceptable for our UZ series motors
2) ILSAC GF-4 SAE 0w20 should *not* be used in our UZ motors, because “These low-viscosity oils cannot maintain lubrication effectiveness in engines with older designs”

Do I have that right?

I think both 20 are the same, but the image is fuzzy, so I provided the link to the TSB above the image. You are welcome!

 

[bigredmachine]

The newer vehicles seem to be more accommodating to the 0 weight.

toyotas using the lighter weight oils for improved emissions, outside of the us in markets with less strict emissions their using heavier oil weights

Oddly forum enthusiasts don't quite know as much as the people focusing on oil for a career.

i dont know about that, cant post it in the forum if it isnt true

 

[Tareq]

Walmart had these for $3/liter on clearance for renovations so I had to get 7 and do an oil change!

Old filter was stuck!


Going for a drive now and see if it warms up faster than Mobil 1 0w-30 AFE

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Been using this viscosity for close to 4 years now and no issues. This weight is actually perfect for short trips, since the weight of the oil is light, it doesn’t take long for the engine to warm up and make the oil watery enough to lubricate internal parts whereas heavier old needs a moment to get the oil effectively circulated. This is also the same weight I run on my dual sport boxer engine bike before and as you know motorcycles rev higher so this is perfect for the application and use. Fuel consumption on the 2uz is negligible, but idle behavior is significant, definitely smoother.

 

[Tareq]

Been using this viscosity for close to 4 years now and no issues. This weight is actually perfect for short trips, since the weight of the oil is light, it doesn’t take long for the engine to warm up and make the oil watery enough to lubricate internal parts whereas heavier old needs a moment to get the oil effectively circulated. This is also the same weight I run on my dual sport boxer engine bike before and as you know motorcycles rev higher so this is perfect for the application and use. Fuel consumption on the 2uz is negligible, but idle behavior is significant, definitely smoother.

Thank you for your input!
If you look here, they actually allow 5w-20 to 10w-30 in Japan for the 4.7 2UZ-FE
All oil change stickers in my JDM 100 are 5w-30, I assume conventional

Toyota-Club.Net - Fluids & capacities - Land Cruiser 100j (1998-2007)

Land Cruiser 100j (1998-2007) | Maintenance data: motor oil, coolant, transmission fluids - types and volumes

toyota-club.net

After few days, here is what I noticed in comparison to Mobil 1 0w-30 AFE

- Cold starts are smoother
- Idle & drive is smoother
- Oil pressure once warmed up at idle is same at 1/4 mark, but at 4000RPM barely touches the 1/2 mark compared to 3/4 mark before!
- Engine is more willing to rev higher

The only thing I don't like is at the same downhills I drive on everyday locked in 2nd gear is engine braking is not good as I have to apply the brakes while the engine is reving about 500 RPMs more


So far, not sure the engine warms up faster than 0w-30, might switch back on the next change!

 

[Tareq]

MPG notes with 80% city driving.
Less than 5 miles commutes each way.

With 0w-30, the computer used to show 3.7 km/Liter = 8.7 mpg
With 0w-20, the computer now shows 4.1 km/Liter = 9.6 mpg

I used to get around 280 km per tank, now I got 320 km from the 1st full tank.