Hard to tell from your description, but could also be old motor (2) and transmission (1) mounts passing engine vibration through when you are on the gas.
That image is a little fuzzy for me (but thank you for posting regardless). If I am reading right, the short story is:
1) ILSAC GF-4 SAE 5w20 is acceptable for our UZ series motors
2) ILSAC GF-4 SAE 0w20 should *not* be used in our UZ motors...
Re the design: button and icon styles look fine, I would only make two changes for usability:
1) make the secondary buttons (recirc, etc) and icons the same size as the others. Key in a truck is “glance-ability”… big enough that you can recognize...
Wow, that’s an intense setup! Seems a shame to hide the aluminum pole piece in the door mains. What part is that in the rear cargo area, an amp? I’ve never seen one that long and skinny before.
IMO, no, unless it looks or feels bad. You only have 60k on since the last change. Meant to be every 90k IIRC and that’s conservative. Mine appeared nearly new at 120k FWIW. YMMV though so, like 97 AZ said, best to have a look if it’s a bother...
When you recharge the battery to 100% it starts and all is well for about a week?
If that’s the case I’d guess:
1) a weak battery again, possibly because of:
A) a failing alternator or voltage regulator that is not keeping it charged
B)...
Ignoring the bad decisions part of this; curious why she spun. Usually a spin happens if the rear locks but the front doesn’t.
Were you on a curve when you locked the brakes? Did ABS not fire at all? Did it fire just on the front axle but not...
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