Carburetor leak (1 Viewer)

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Jun 6, 2018
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I have attached a photo with an arrow that shows where a little gas was leaking from my carburetor. My concern is risk of fire as tiny drops were dripping on the area below. My friend mentioned unscrewing the connection and using a compound to stop the leak and then refastening the connection. I don't recall the compounds name he mentioned. Any thoughts?

fullsizeoutput_19eb.jpeg
 
Thats your Fuel inlet fitting , and Yes it looks cocked to a angle ?


i would remove it and apply teflon tape to the male threads , a few turns on that then try to re-install the fitting straight


use the new grey stuff u get at a plumbing supply house its thicker and had more Teflon in it
 
There's supposed to be a copper crush washer behind that fitting that does the sealing against the carb body.
 
That’s a F engine carb 1970-1974

It might be a taperd pipe on that modle ?

Not sure


@Living in the Past
 
This is why I tell customers to always send me the inlet fitting WITH the carburetor; it is obviously been screwed in crooked.

Separate the fitting on the end of the delivery hose [17mm] from the inlet fitting(14mm). If you are lucky, the inlet of the carb will still have enough good threads left to reset the fitting a little deeper and that should take care of the leak.

THERE IS NO NEED TO EVER UNSCREW THIS FITTING!

Only 2F carbs used the crush washer on the inlet fitting. F engines used one on the access plug, above the inlet.
 
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Keep in mind that now the fitting has been cross-threaded, there is an increased likelihood that metal fragments from the carb casting will be produced during reinstallation which will clog up the carb.

Several times a year I receive carbs for rebuilding that have had the fitting removed. I then have to call the customer and have them send me the fitting so I can install it and make sure the inlet is clear BEFORE reassembly.
 
Keep in mind that now the fitting has been cross-threaded, there is an increased likelihood that metal fragments from the carb casting will be produced during reinstallation which will clog up the carb.

Several times a year I receive carbs for rebuilding that have had the fitting removed. I then have to call the customer and have them send me the fitting so I can install it and make sure the inlet is clear BEFORE reassembly.


what do u use on the fitting during re-assy mark ?

loch tite

or

teflon tape ?
 
If there isn't enough thread left to make it work, Permatex and Loctite make a thread repair epoxy - Versions of this stuff have been around a long time and I used it once, years ago, to fix a stripped fuel inlet on a Quadrajet and it held for a year until I sold the car ... But I don't really know how it would hold up long term to gasoline, though there are youtube vids using it for carb thread repairs on soft zinc bodies.

You'd want to remove the Air Horn to do that fix anyway, so might be best to just send for expert rebuild at that point, since the Carb gurus prolly have their proprietary repair techniques. :)

Anyway, here's the permatex stuff, perhaps what your friend was talking about ?

 
2-part epoxy or resin products are fuel proof. Cyanoacrylate based threadlock products are fuel proof.

Two products that are never fuel proof:
Teflon tape,
RTV silicone gasket goo.
 
what do u use on the fitting during re-assy mark ?

loch tite

or

teflon tape ?

I’ve never actually had to cross that bridge Matt. Having a repository of hundreds of cores with f’ed up bases, drilled out bowls, etc that for the few that have been completely stripped out, I’ve just installed another air horn.
 
Hmmmm, so why does my '73/'74 carb have a crush washer? I probably thought it needed it during the carb rebuild and put it on. So is the end of that fitting tapered and does the sealing?

Must investigate now and check on my son's '71 also.
 
Guys thanks for all the help. I applied the teflon tape and no leaks today. The forum is once again a great resource.
Reread Jim's post a few posts back
 
FYI - When using TEFLON TAPE:
Wrap the tape around the threads in the same direction you are screwing it in.

This helps ensure a tight seal.
 
I would use Permatex (the fuel proof one); avoids pieces of tape possible clogging something.
 
I am having a leak from a different spot then, Brasi. I borrowed the pic he posted. My leak is coming from the fitting with the green arrow. How do I fix that? Is that fuel line still available??

D4AD811B-A55E-49AC-9422-7677674F8EE8.jpeg
 

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