3ur ticking at cold start (1 Viewer)

[Ricardor87]

Hi, im new here.

I got and lc200 2015, im having ticking at cold start for 3 or 4 minutos then goes away im using 0w20 mobil 1 full synthetic every 5k
I only have 30k miles on my truck ive have been reading some posts about tensioner

Any ideas??

 

[LSUfj]

Probably an exhaust manifold leak. My 100 series used to do that.

 

[bloc]

Try switching to 5w-30, especially in south Florida.

These trucks aren't known for quiet valve trains, so a tick isn't uncommon. It being a new sound doesn't seem great.. but if it's just a tick I wouldn't be worried. The tensioner issue is much more alarming.. it is a very loud clatter.

Also I wouldn't expect exhaust manifold leaks at such low mileage.. but I guess it is possible. The 1UZ was much more known for that than the 3UR though.

 

[Ricardor87]

I try today 5w20 and same problem here's the video on the cold start

 

[Ricardor87]

Hi, im considering the tensioner here's a video many thanks

Try switching to 5w-30, especially in south Florida.

These trucks aren't known for quiet valve trains, so a tick isn't uncommon. It being a new sound doesn't seem great.. but if it's just a tick I wouldn't be worried. The tensioner issue is much more alarming.. it is a very loud clatter.

Also I wouldn't expect exhaust manifold leaks at such low mileage.. but I guess it is possible. The 1UZ was much more known for that than the 3UR though.

i,

 

[bloc]

The cyclical nature of that doesn’t sound normal, but also much quieter and long lasting than typical chain slap from tensioners. My thinking is it’s possibly the cam phasers.. the 3UR does occasionally have problems with those.

I’d definitely try a thicker oil before tearing stuff apart though.

FYI what happens with the tensioners is when the engine shuts off depending on the position of the cams, without oil pressure in the tensioner the chain can push it back to a compressed state. There is a small ratchet on it designed to prevent this while allowing it room to take up slack from chain wear, but that is what actually goes bad. As soon as the engine develops oil pressure that takes over and gives tension.. maximum a few seconds. but until that point there is a very loud clatter while the chain slaps around. Far louder and less rhythmic than what you have.

 

[Ricardor87]

The cyclical nature of that doesn’t sound normal, but also much quieter and long lasting than typical chain slap from tensioners. My thinking is it’s possibly the cam phasers.. the 3UR does occasionally have problems with those.

I’d definitely try a thicker oil before tearing stuff apart though.

FYI what happens with the tensioners is when the engine shuts off depending on the position of the cams, without oil pressure in the tensioner the chain can push it back to a compressed state. There is a small ratchet on it designed to prevent this while allowing it room to take up slack from chain wear, but that is what actually goes bad. As soon as the engine develops oil pressure that takes over and gives tension.. maximum a few seconds. but until that point there is a very loud clatter while the chain slaps around. Far louder and less rhythmic than what you have.

The cam phaser also work with chain and tensioners?

 

[bloc]

The cam phaser also work with chain and tensioners?

Yes. Cam phasers have the chain sprocket on them and connect the chain to the camshaft.. they are “phasers” because they can adjust how much the cam timing is advanced or retarded compared to the crankshaft and chain.

This complexity leaves room for problems to come up. They don’t often have issues, but if you read about our engine this does happen on occasion. For the record there were many, many more tundras built with the 5.7 than 200s, so you can find lots of information from those sources online.

 

[mdrei]

Yes. Cam phasers have the chain sprocket on them and connect the chain to the camshaft.. they are “phasers” because they can adjust how much the cam timing is advanced or retarded compared to the crankshaft and chain.

This complexity leaves room for problems to come up. They don’t often have issues, but if you read about our engine this does happen on occasion. For the record there were many, many more tundras built with the 5.7 than 200s, so you can find lots of information from those sources online.

@Ricardor87, I've been hearing same noise from my '14 LX (~109K mi). The vid post #1 in this thread is exactly what I'm hearing...
Need help/advice with timing chain noise - https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/need-help-advice-with-timing-chain-noise.764982/

@bloc, what are your thoughts re the source/solution suggested in post #16 in linked thread?

 

[bloc]

I personally dislike the idea of solvent in my oil but it is less invasive than mechanical work and maybe worth a shot. I’d just do a couple changes to get rid of all of it before driving on for a full change interval.

The poster’s impression of how the tensioners work is incorrect.. they depend on oil pressure to maintain tension while running, the ratchet there to fight the valve spring pushing the cam back when there is no oil pressure, and the spring being there simply to apply initial tension. Also they mention oil becoming more viscous as it warms, though that could be a simple typo.

I don’t think it would help OP as their vehicle is very low mileage.


For the record, it’s subtle but much of the noise from OPs video is totally normal for our vehicles. The valve clatter, even a little bit of bottom end noise. All of these 3URs do that. They are truck engines, never put into a Lexus LS. But I do think OP has something else going on as I said above.

 

[PDoyle]

At 30 k miles you have changed the oil 6 times. That is once a year.? I would change the oil a couple of more times within the next 5 k. Cheap and easy.

 

[mdrei]

I personally dislike the idea of solvent in my oil but it is less invasive than mechanical work and maybe worth a shot. I’d just do a couple changes to get rid of all of it before driving on for a full change interval.

The poster’s impression of how the tensioners work is incorrect.. they depend on oil pressure to maintain tension while running, the ratchet there to fight the valve spring pushing the cam back when there is no oil pressure, and the spring being there simply to apply initial tension. Also they mention oil becoming more viscous as it warms, though that could be a simple typo.

I don’t think it would help OP as their vehicle is very low mileage.


For the record, it’s subtle but much of the noise from OPs video is totally normal for our vehicles. The valve clatter, even a little bit of bottom end noise. All of these 3URs do that. They are truck engines, never put into a Lexus LS. But I do think OP has something else going on as I said above.

ok, thanks for the feedback. I'm familiar with the 'normal' valve clatter in my 200 and it was same with a Tundra I used to own. This extra noise cycles on/off and I seem to notice it more on cold starts. I'm due for an oil change in the near future so I'll grab a few extra 5gal jugs and some SeaFoam and give it a try.

 

[mcgaskins]

I try today 5w20 and same problem here's the video on the cold start

I meant to reply to this when I first saw it months ago but just now getting around to it. This is precisely the same noise I found in my 2013 with ~105k miles and was determined to be left hand side timing chain tensioner. I just posted more details including all the part numbers to fix the issue in my build thread here: TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER mcgaskins' 2013 build thread - Palladium

 

[mdrei]

I meant to reply to this when I first saw it months ago but just now getting around to it. This is precisely the same noise I found in my 2013 with ~105k miles and was determined to be left hand side timing chain tensioner. I just posted more details including all the part numbers to fix the issue in my build thread here: TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER mcgaskins' 2013 build thread - Palladium

Thanks for your post. McGaskins. I thought I had gotten lucky with the Sea Foam/Oil Change suggestion as it seemed to quiet things for a few weeks. However, the noise recently started again so I'll explore this fix.

 

[mdrei]

I read McGaskin's write-up & watched/listened to vid. Nice work and it seems likely I have same issue (same side of engine). I have a few questions for the greater community of smart folks who gather here:

• Parts list mainly contained left side parts as that was the side creating issue. With everything apart, should swapping opposite side parts be considered, too?
• Any other parts to add to that list?
• I'm reading stuff on Tundra forums but still not sure what are main 'potential' consequences if this isn't repaired.
• Re 'while you're in there' stuff, I've got a new radiator and assoc 'while you're in there' parts wrt to radiator replacement...all in prep for what seems like the inevitable radiator crack... which I haven't yet experienced (btw, I have a '14LX with ~117k mi). Considering the labor re timing chain tensioner repair (and the apparent necessity to remove the radiator), I'm wondering if I should continue to wait for signs of radiator failure or just replace it while that section is dismantled?

 

[mcgaskins]

I read McGaskin's write-up & watched/listened to vid. Nice work and it seems likely I have same issue (same side of engine). I have a few questions for the greater community of smart folks who gather here:

• Parts list mainly contained left side parts as that was the side creating issue. With everything apart, should swapping opposite side parts be considered, too?
• Any other parts to add to that list?
• I'm reading stuff on Tundra forums but still not sure what are main 'potential' consequences if this isn't repaired.
• Re 'while you're in there' stuff, I've got a new radiator and assoc 'while you're in there' parts wrt to radiator replacement...all in prep for what seems like the inevitable radiator crack... which I haven't yet experienced (btw, I have a '14LX with ~117k mi). Considering the labor re timing chain tensioner repair (and the apparent necessity to remove the radiator), I'm wondering if I should continue to wait for signs of radiator failure or just replace it while that section is dismantled?

I was told it would dramatically increase the cost of the repair to do the right hand side, and from my research the vast majority (maybe even all?) of the failures on the Tundra forum were on the left hand side. @JohnJB also had a similar repair and did the same research, so maybe he can shed some more light on it.

 

[Artie]

Apologies, I’m not at my computer or I’d look at the FSM and answer my own question.

How much of this work is done at the timing chain regular replacement interval? I definitely wouldn’t go in there and not do what’s done at that service.

What exactly is the part that fails that causes this noise? I’m assuming the tensioner so I guess the slop in the chain wears out the sprockets as well.