Rain Gutter and Top Restoration (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jvincig01
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I used the rope technique. I sat the bottom of the glass in place on the truck and applied a lot of downforce while my helper pulled the bottom in with the rope. Once the bottom was in I shifted force towards one side and pulled it in, then the other side, and lastly the top. We didn't use lube because the lube helps the window pop back out as easy as it helps you pop it in. There was a small amount of seal manipulation and pushing on the glass to get it set in right, even after we pulled all the rope. I ended up using the back end of an ear piece of some ray ban wayfarers as a seal tool to help pull the lip of the seal up into position. For glue I would look at the bob smith indusctries rubberized CA. IC-2000 | Rubber-toughened CA - https://bsi-inc.com/hobby/ic_2000.html
jvincig01
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #164
Made some good progress tonight. Got the sidewalls of the hardtop on. Before I installed it, I used all @Racer65 weatherstripping. '67 did not have any sort of rubber where the top meets the bed. However, it does in later models so I decided to add it. I also decided to use weatherstripping glue to hold down the bottom strip.
The next project is fiberglass. Wish me luck.
The next project is fiberglass. Wish me luck.
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Nice progress. Been installing these kinds of windows for 30 years and was taught the joints go at the top. Water collects at the bottom and will seep through the joint, as it has more time to do so than at the top. Classic Restorer's Handbook also says top. I know many people put it on the bottom and don't have any problems. Just a rule of thumb, probably, and won't matter that much. I wouldn't change what you did, but just throwing it out there. FYI, mine was at the bottom of my 40 windshield when I got it, with a shrunken gasket and an 1/8" gap.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Looks great! I think it's a good call to add the weatherstrip, even if it's not "period correct". It's what Toyota did after thinking about it; that says something.
All the OEM seals I have seen have the molded ends at the bottom. It could be argued that at the top they act as a funnel, whereas at the bottom they are just an open passage.
I wouldn't change anything. Apologies to give you concerns, it most likely doesn't matter. Just how the restoration guys taught it in the 80s. I read that glue works well. The other thing, when installing, is to cut the rubber a little long so there is pressure, pushing the ends together. That way, even with shrinkage over the years, it won't pull apart.
Anyway, it probably doesn't matter because the edge of the glass is sitting outside the flange of the window frame. Any water that gets past should run outside the vehicle.
jvincig01
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #170
Finished the rear hatch. I didn't go crazy on restoring it because it's a little warped and has a bunch of fiberglass patchwork the PO did. I am keeping an eye out for a nice one without rust. This will work for now, though.
I almost forgot I modified my struts years ago. I replaced the worthless springs for gas struts. They are inside the original housing. Pretty slick mod if you ask me.
More rubber is on the way and should finish the glass soon. Well, I should say I am going to pay a guy to finish it.
I almost forgot I modified my struts years ago. I replaced the worthless springs for gas struts. They are inside the original housing. Pretty slick mod if you ask me.
More rubber is on the way and should finish the glass soon. Well, I should say I am going to pay a guy to finish it.
Thanks. Now I have another project to add to my list! But, seriously, awesome job! That's the kind of stuff I do, but I didn't think of it.
jvincig01
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #174
If you haven’t done your headliner yet, choose your adhesive carefully. I used Permatex brand and it’s already failed in 4 months.
I like the strut mod. I’m tired of getting hit in the head!
I am not there yet but will be in a few weeks. I will definitely look for the right adhesive.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
So why did you end up using?If you haven’t done your headliner yet, choose your adhesive carefully. I used Permatex brand and it’s already failed in 4 months.
I like the strut mod. I’m tired of getting hit in the head!
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Do you have any write up on how you did this? Very slick mod. Sadly my chrome is corroded so will have to deal with that also.
I used Lokweld high temp contact adhesive for adhering vinyl to door cards. It is for automotive upholstery.
I've also used 3M Super 90 for my M3 headliner. Been hanging on for 3 years now.
There is also Weldwood Landau Top Adhesive professional contact cement but only comes in gallons, I think.
jvincig01
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #179
@merbesfield Here is a link that shows how to do the mod. Read all the pages but pg 4 and 5 show pictures.
Gas Struts for rear lift gate on '73 - Where do you fin 'em?
Gas Struts for rear lift gate on '73 - I FIGURED IT OUT!!!!! Saw some on eBay, but was outbid ($50). Where do you get 'em? Or does anybody have the specs so that I can order some?
forum.ih8mud.com
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Find that interesting. My 9/64 FJ45 had weatherstripping between the cab and the top. Bought replacement from Toyota but original weatherstripping was still there. My 9/67 68 model had both pieces. Had it since 74.
