New FJ45 owner (as of March 2022) (1 Viewer)

[whitey45]

Power steering is a game changer, you will love it!! Dont get defeated, at the end of the day, these trucks can be real nice drivers, you are doing all the necessary mods to get there. I have been driving a 45 for the last 25 years, and it still brings a smile everytime!

 

[avicenna110]

Power steering is a game changer, you will love it!! Dont get defeated, at the end of the day, these trucks can be real nice drivers, you are doing all the necessary mods to get there. I have been driving a 45 for the last 25 years, and it still brings a smile everytime!

I am very much obsessed with it and with fixing it to drive daily. Before buying it (or seeing one in person really) I thought it would be similar to our 77. In a lot of ways it is, but also has many little things unique to FJ45 and early FJ’s especially the ‘65 year like the bug catcher, all metal doors, windshield vent, 4x4 lever, light switch , wipers etc… it is quite unique.

I am looking forward to the PS, made some progress this afternoon: cut the shaft from the old box and welded it to the coupler from JT outfitters, not a pretty weld job but it’s welded on both sides pretty good

 

[whitey45]

The steering gear takes all the torque, so the input takes very little to turn the gear, those welds will last a lifetime!!!

 

[avicenna110]

The factory FJ40 PS is in but the coupler would be hitting the clutch line, and is very close to the dip stick. I think it’ll pass the dip stick but I’m gonna have to move the clutch line bracket. I’ve already cut the shaft of the original steering box so no turning back. The box is also close to the exhaust manifold. I’m installing a cooler for the PS so I’m hoping that would help.

Those bolts on the box bracket took me 45 min to put on because of the exhaust pipe

 

[avicenna110]

Ok panic moment over, I cut the bracket and now it should fit. I’ll weld the clutch bracket to the side. And I’ll get to the shady electrical work later.

 

[avicenna110]

Hey all, I have a slight issue, the tube around the shaft on these early FJ40s is fixed to the steering box, and the shaft rotates inside. The outer tube needs to be fixed since the signal indicator is attached to it. But to install the power steering you cut the shaft and the tube and weld the coupler to the shaft like below:

In the picture above the shaft in inside the tube and cannot be seen. I almost also welded the outer tube to the coupler but realized that would have been really stupid. Anyways now the issue I have is that the tube can easily rotate, it’s kind of held in place by the bracket under the dash like in the picture below but it can be rotated. The canceling mechanism on the steering wheel also wouldn’t work, as it would just rotate everything (I installed the steering wheel upside down as a result). My question is what is an elegant way of fixing this as opposed to say welding it in place.

 

[EWheeler]

Hey all, I have a slight issue, the tube around the shaft on these early FJ40s is fixed to the steering box, and the shaft rotates inside. The outer tube needs to be fixed since the signal indicator is attached to it. But to install the power steering you cut the shaft and the tube and weld the coupler to the shaft like below:

View attachment 3040254

In the picture above the shaft in inside the tube and cannot be seen. I almost also welded the outer tube to the coupler but realized that would have been really stupid. Anyways now the issue I have is that the tube can easily rotate, it’s kind of held in place by the bracket under the dash like in the picture below but it can be rotated. The canceling mechanism on the steering wheel also wouldn’t work, as it would just rotate everything (I installed the steering wheel upside down as a result). My question is what is an elegant way of fixing this as opposed to say welding it in place.

View attachment 3040260

Need to cut a plate with a hole in it, remove steering wheel and turn signal stuff, slide it down over steering column, layout or somehow pattern the holes on the firewall to the plate, remove plate and drill the holes, and reinstall plate and weld it to the column shell.

I understand thats an over simplification, but i think it gives you the outline of the solution. There are others that have done this and documented here. I think some of the recent electric power steering threads in the 40 section may have some photos. You will basically replace the two trim halves that secure the steering columm boot/gasket with a solid plate that is welded to the steering column tube.

 

[whitey45]

I usually cut a plate for the firewall and pass the column through and weld it. Then a bushing at the end to support the shaft. These parts can be bought through advance adapters and others online.

 

[avicenna110]

Need to cut a plate with a hole in it, remove steering wheel and turn signal stuff, slide it down over steering column, layout or somehow pattern the holes on the firewall to the plate, remove plate and drill the holes, and reinstall plate and weld it to the column shell.

I understand thats an over simplification, but i think it gives you the outline of the solution. There are others that have done this and documented here. I think some of the recent electric power steering threads in the 40 section may have some photos. You will basically replace the two trim halves that secure the steering columm boot/gasket with a solid plate that is welded to the steering column tube.

I usually cut a plate for the firewall and pass the column through and weld it. Then a bushing at the end to support the shaft. These parts can be bought through advance adapters and others online.

Thanks guys, funny thing is I’ve seen them in posts I’ve read on this forum before but I didn’t see why they were needed, now I do. Somehow I didn’t even connect them to my issue. I still don’t know what the bushing does but I’ll dig up a bit. Thanks again.

 

[DomSmith]

Pretty sure the bushing just presses onto the shaft and holds it nice and tight so it doesn’t flop around and feel weird.

 

[avicenna110]

Pretty sure the bushing just presses onto the shaft and holds it nice and tight so it doesn’t flop around and feel weird.

Got it, thanks. It makes sense. The coupler I installed kind of does that, the outer diameter is keeping the tube in place.

 

[Terrax]

Late to the thread, I'm also near you on the coast in Pacifica. Congratulations!! Nice score.

 

[avicenna110]

Late to the thread, I'm also near you on the coast in Pacifica. Congratulations!! Nice score.

Thanks! Nice looking truck you got

 

[Terrax]

Thanks! Nice looking truck you got

Thanks!! It has a very long, interesting history and how it ended up with me.

 

[avicenna110]

Installed PS, put fluid and started it up to bleed the pump. There was a horrible ringing/grinding sound when I started the engine, not what you wanna hear. After re-checking everything I found the alternator blades hitting the ground cable, PS pump/pulley were good

Drove it around the block and what a difference a good steering box makes, and add PS to it, it almost feels like driving a modern car

 

[avicenna110]

Shouldn’t the rear axle have studs instead of bolts? It was leaking so I decided to change the gasket.

Transfer case and (maybe transmission) was leaking too. I had changed the fluid but I think I put too much in the transfer case. The car wasn’t on a flat surface and I filled it to the filler hole. I just emptied it and put 1.8 quarts exactly this time. I’m hoping the leak was coming from the breather plug on top. But I had also noticed the parking brake housing was very hot on the first drive after I changed the parking brakes and seal, so the oil on the outer of the housing might be due to the seal getting damaged from the heat. Also had oil on the speedo cable.

Anyone know what the flat plug with the 12mm bolt in the middle of the picture below is for?

 

[Terrax]

Shouldn’t the rear axle have studs instead of bolts? It was leaking so I decided to change the gasket.

View attachment 3047023

Transfer case and (maybe transmission) was leaking too. I had changed the fluid but I think I put too much in the transfer case. The car wasn’t on a flat surface and I filled it to the filler hole. I just emptied it and put 1.8 quarts exactly this time. I’m hoping the leak was coming from the breather plug on top. But I had also noticed the parking brake housing was very hot on the first drive after I changed the parking brakes and seal, so the oil on the outer of the housing might be due to the seal getting damaged from the heat. Also had oil on the speedo cable.

View attachment 3047024

Anyone know what the flat plug with the 12mm bolt in the middle of the picture below is for?

View attachment 3047022

I believe is the idler shaft. Here's a great video from Georg at Valley Hybrids.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Yes, studs on both the front and rear differentials. That bolt keeps the idler shaft that the idler gears in the tcase run on in place. You only want to remove it if you're taking the tcase apart.

 

[avicenna110]

I believe is the idler shaft. Here's a great video from Georg at Valley Hybrids.

Nice, love these educational videos

 

[avicenna110]

Yes, studs on both the front and rear differentials. That bolt keeps the idler shaft that the idler gears in the tcase run on in place. You only want to remove it if you're taking the tcase apart.

Maybe I’m being paranoid but does not having studs make the oil leak through the threads? I put thread sealant on the bolts when I put it back together.