Solid burn! This is what I get for pissing on their install
Slee LX Slider Notes (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
- Start date
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7000ft
SILVER Star
Turns out they put lock washers on both sides. Next install got shorted!Solid burn! This is what I get for pissing on their install
In my experience you could have a box of taps and still not have the one you need. It is likely m6 or m8 right? I suggest threading a bolt thru, it’s a good excuse to buy an impact wrench, right!
All the bolts on mine that didn’t go into the truck frame were SAE I believe.
I expect you’ll have to deal with it yourself. Nature of the beast dealing with large hunks of metal shipped across the country. Be nice if Slee was a little more accommodating, but I don’t know how much of a grudge it’s worth holding. The fact that they cost an arm and a leg doesn’t help. I get the limited production, but if we were slapping them on Wranglers they’d cost at least half as much.
if slee couldn’t tell you the thread size, your local lowes/Home Depot will have a thread tester to find it.
So the captured nut is on the slider? I thought it was in the truck frame.
Yes, on slee’s slider. I would have delt with frame on my own
I see the issue more clearly now.
But you’re still going to have to fix it yourself.
But you’re still going to have to fix it yourself.
Well, the manual was linked there briefly. It’s the 3/8 16TPI I believe.
7000ft
SILVER Star
Here is the SLEE installation LX570 guide with parts list. All fasteners are detailed.Someone set me straight:
I was test fitting all the things when I noticed one of the bolts wouldn’t thread into the captive nut on one of the arms.
At first I thought, “no big deal, maybe some power coat stuck in there.” But it was a much bigger chunk of metal. I send these pics to Slee, and they respond back with “tap the nut.”
And then I responded back with, “Please verify the thread size to tap with or send me one.”
And then get this message:
There are ultimately four ways to handle these imperfections;
- Use a pick tool and try to remove
- Use the bolt and thread in by hand with a rachet and use the bolt as a thread chase
- Use a Thread chase
- Use a Tap
It’s definitely not PC, the bolt won’t budge it, and a pick didn’t work. Maybe the nut was damaged when they welded it on?
I’m a little annoyed. These things weren’t cheap, and now i have to deal with fixing this before I can install. I don’t have the size, so I have to order and wait until it arrives. Plus, all time I wasted e-mailing and complaining on here
Would you be annoyed as well or just deal with it and move on?
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Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life
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Maybe I was just clairvoyant.Here is the SLEE installation guide with parts list. All fasteners are detailed.
Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life
www.dropbox.com
7000ft
SILVER Star
This is the LC200 fitment kit instructions.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I will look into who answered and did not supply the details. However here is the main page where all our instructions are listed.
We strive to list all bolts / nut details with size and thread pitch.
It is not uncommon to have to chase some holes due to power getting into it or maybe a small defect or spatter from welding. We will post likely update the instructions to tell people to expect that. It is not possible to catch all these cases after coating. All holes are plugged when being coated but sometimes the powder gets passed it.
I apologize if this caused any frustration with the installation. We will take note and address the issues.
We strive to list all bolts / nut details with size and thread pitch.
It is not uncommon to have to chase some holes due to power getting into it or maybe a small defect or spatter from welding. We will post likely update the instructions to tell people to expect that. It is not possible to catch all these cases after coating. All holes are plugged when being coated but sometimes the powder gets passed it.
I apologize if this caused any frustration with the installation. We will take note and address the issues.
It's fine - the Tap ended up only costing $6, so not the end of the world. It was mainly just the inconvenience, but one little weld splatter isn't going to stop me... just slow me down
Next question: The slider shares a mounting point with my Dissent Skids. Thoughts on putting the bracket above or below the plate?
Other considerations: reuse the Dissent bolt/washer (which has a flat head), or drill out the Plate to use Slee's much larger bolt, or source a round head that @TeCKis300 posted earlier...
Amazon product ASIN B00DL7PHG6
you'll most likely remove your skids before you remove your sliders right?It's fine - the Tap ended up only costing $6, so not the end of the world. It was mainly just the inconvenience, but one little weld splatter isn't going to stop me... just slow me down
Next question: The slider shares a mounting point with my Dissent Skids. Thoughts on putting the bracket above or below the plate?
Other considerations: reuse the Dissent bolt/washer (which has a flat head), or drill out the Plate to use Slee's much larger bolt, or source a round head that @TeCKis300 posted earlier...
View attachment 2972601
View attachment 2972604
Amazon product ASIN B00DL7PHG6
Not necessarily. The dissent skid has service holes for greasing the propshaft. @lx200inAR said that those particular brackets were though to align, so I might not even have the right angle to go on top of the skid.
I guess I was thinking of more along the lines of having the skid protect the slew bracket, or having it under the plate is less grabby things in the event of a slide
From looking at the instructions, it seems like I might be able to slide the slee bracket between the plate and the crossmember after the slider is installed.
I will say, it may have just been the order that i bolted things up. On the drivers side, i had a lot of trouble and had to ratchet strap the bracket into place. On the passenger side it went right in. I can't remember now what order i bolted things on either side. So sorry i can't be of more help there. Technically it seems like that should be an easier one since you have some free movement with the floating z-nut thing. I still think it's going to suck trying to stack those plates and get a bolt through, no matter which way you go, especially since one is going to end up at a non-ideal angle. From a protection standpoint, i think i agree with @tbisaacs that the slider bracket going on first, then the skid on top.Not necessarily. The dissent skid has service holes for greasing the propshaft. @lx200inAR said that those particular brackets were though to align, so I might not even have the right angle to go on top of the skid.
I guess I was thinking of more along the lines of having the skid protect the slew bracket, or having it under the plate is less grabby things in the event of a slide
From looking at the instructions, it seems like I might be able to slide the slee bracket between the plate and the crossmember after the slider is installed.
Now that i re-read your post, i think we are all in agreement that the skid should go on last..
Not that I doubted @TeCKis300, but I can confirm that 44lbs came off the rig (not including any bolts).
