Building a 2H (1 Viewer)

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Thanks @tlaporte and @mongoose2231, its been a while since I posted any updates...
the engine is almost completely reassembled new seals and gaskets everywhere.
The last major piece is rebuilding the rocker assembly and mounting that back on the head.
I need to wire the glow plugs so I can glow them manually to test start the engine out of the 40 before it gets swapped in.
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Lovely engine.. keen to see a video of its first firing up! :)

All you need for the glow plugs is the rail, a jumper lead from a battery direct to the glow rail for 5 seconds will be sufficient - even if you are using Superglow voltage plugs they will be fine with full voltage for 5 seconds.

Glowplug rail is an opportunity for some bling too :)

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I finished up the rocker assembly and got everything back on the engine. I mounted up the sandwich plate, flywheel, bellhousing and starter. I took the engine off the stand and onto a cart so I can test start it.
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Id like to just run leads from the battery to the starter to bypass all wiring but I wasnt getting it to turn over.
I grounded the neg lead to the aluminum housing on the starter. I ran 12v directly to the stud and solenoid lead shown. I did the same setup when the starter wasnt mounted on the engine and both the motor and the plunger worked fine so there is no issues with the starter itself.
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Looking for some wiring help. I have tried hooking the starter up a few different ways: Neg to post A, Pos to post B and lead C. Neg to starter housing, Pos to post B and lead C. Pos to post A, Neg to housing. Pos to post A, neg to post B. I can hear the solenoid clicking and the starter will spin but never at the same time. Is it possible the starter is spinning reverse somehow? it doesnt seem like it want to engage the flywheel and actually turn the engine over. Any help much appreciated!
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  • "C", the dangly white plug. is your trigger wire.. Put 12V+ to this when you want it to crank.
  • "B" is your permanent HIGH AMP 12V+ feed to the starter motor. The big nut on the starter motor attached to the copper post. Use a big thick cable.
  • You then need to provide an earth (12V-) to the block or bellhousing to complete it using a big thick cable.One of the bell housing bolts would be fine, or the top starter to bellhousing bolt.
 
  • "C", the dangly white plug. is your trigger wire.. Put 12V+ to this when you want it to crank.
  • "B" is your permanent HIGH AMP 12V+ feed to the starter motor. The big nut on the starter motor attached to the copper post. Use a big thick cable.
  • You then need to provide an earth (12V-) to the block or bellhousing to complete it using a big thick cable.One of the bell housing bolts would be fine, or the top starter to bellhousing bolt.

So only run +12v to B and C, nothing to A, and ground to the bellhousing?
 
I am not sure what you're labelling with A? The little round thing? thats the oil pressure sensor.. here's the 2H currently on my test stand that I ran a few days ago set up the way you see it..

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I am not sure what you're labelling with A? The little round thing? thats the oil pressure sensor.. here's the 2H currently on my test stand that I ran a few days ago set up the way you see it..

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Nice yeah that's how I just hooked it up and seems to crank just fine. I'm waiting for an oil pressure test gauge to come in before I try to fully run it
 
You'll need to glow it before it'll start in all likelihood.. a nice fat bit of wire to give 12V+ directly to the glow rail for 5 seconds is what I do.
 
Here’s some footage of the first cold start of the engine.

I was able to start and run the engine over the past few days, both good and not so good updates. It started pretty easy after glowing the glow plugs for a few seconds 2 or 3 times. After bleeding the air out of the injector lines it idled and ran smooth with no issues.

The bad part is that it sounds like it has some bearing knock from around cyl 1 or 2. The noise sounds like its coming from the bottom end around the oil pan. I double checked the rockers and pushrods to make sure there wasn’t a stuck valve or a pushrod came un seated. The noise gets more muffled when I put my hand on the pan, it almost seems like a hollow sound like there isn’t enough oil, but per the FSM I did a dry fill with 11qts.

Can anyone tell me if this is just a standard 2H noise or if it sounds like an issue in the bottom end.



 

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