What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (50 Viewers)

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That is very disappointing to see! Luckily you have a long enough rod to lop that off and try again, are you using washers between the nuts and the driving socket/receiver?
Yes, I have very heavy duty washers to protect the nut. I will use heat next time!
 
Yes, I have very heavy duty washers to protect the nut. I will use heat next time!
Damn, good luck man. I don't know what difference this would make but I used a long handled 1/2" ratchet and a cheater pipe with a 6pt socket on the driving end and two washers on the nuts. Hopefully the heat does it for you!
 
Making very slow progress on LCA bushings refresh. So far I have taken everything off and have failed spectacularly in my efforts to take off the frame side bushing. Broke the 5/8" Acme rod but the bushing didn't even budge!
View attachment 2816315
Are you positive that your press diameter is smaller than the frame receiver tube? I thought mine was at first, but after struggling for a few minutes I sized down the socket by 1mm and the bushing squirted right out with minimal force. Your bushing sleeve might be frozen, but I'm just mentioning my mistake in case it helps.
 
Yes, I have very heavy duty washers to protect the nut. I will use heat next time!

I used an electric heat gun to warm up the area around the bushing so it would expand enough to let the bushing squirt out. Seems hokey but it did help.
 
Replaced 9005/9006 low/high/fog/ with phillips ultravision.. Lights u up Like the deathstar. The amber LED turnsignals now blink fast(like if u had a burnt out light indicator) need the like adapter i guess.. LED on license plate is super bright! Vs og. Interior is nexxt
-2006 LC w AHC. 148K
20211019_193728.jpg
 
Replaced 9005/9006 low/high/fog/ with phillips ultravision.. Lights u up Like the deathstar. The amber LED turnsignals now blink fast(like if u had a burnt out light indicator) need the like adapter i guess.. LED on license plate is super bright! Vs og. Interior is nexxt
-2006 LC w AHC. 148KView attachment 2816660
It's really like stepping into the 21st century when you replace the incandescent bulbs
 
Just wanted to throw this out there as a follow up to the ACME rod for bushing presses. I completely forgot about McMaster Carr when I was ordering my parts but came across them again recently when looking for some other acme parts for a completely unrelated project(moxon vise.)

I didn't have any issues with the plain steel rod breaking but I am realizing I may have been lucky and although my bushings had a good amount of corrosion they were clearly not seized. I dealt with seized frame bushing on my frontier last year and it was one of the most frustrating things I've ever done(didn't try a press but hours of drilling, cutting and chiseling.) The point of this is McMaster Carr has different grades of steel for their ACME including alloy which is Grade 7 vs Grade 2 and has over double the tensile strength. Hope this helps some of you and definitely regretting not knowing about this option earlier when I was praising my set up, I apologize for that.

McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/rods/acme-lead-screws-and-nuts/
 
Just wanted to throw this out there as a follow up to the ACME rod for bushing presses. I completely forgot about McMaster Carr when I was ordering my parts but came across them again recently when looking for some other acme parts for a completely unrelated project(moxon vise.)

I didn't have any issues with the plain steel rod breaking but I am realizing I may have been lucky and although my bushings had a good amount of corrosion they were clearly not seized. I dealt with seized frame bushing on my frontier last year and it was one of the most frustrating things I've ever done(didn't try a press but hours of drilling, cutting and chiseling.) The point of this is McMaster Carr has different grades of steel for their ACME including alloy which is Grade 7 vs Grade 2 and has over double the tensile strength. Hope this helps some of you and definitely regretting not knowing about this option earlier when I was praising my set up, I apologize for that.

McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/rods/acme-lead-screws-and-nuts/
Yup, pretty sure, I got the grade 2 :)
 
@Eyedaho had the right idea. I needed a smaller socket to push the bushing out. A 3/4" drive 33mm socket pushed the bushings out in no time at all. And fresh bushings were pressed in rather easily as well. This part of job ended up being super easy!
Thanks guys for the suggestions.

Are you positive that your press diameter is smaller than the frame receiver tube? I thought mine was at first, but after struggling for a few minutes I sized down the socket by 1mm and the bushing squirted right out with minimal force. Your bushing sleeve might be frozen, but I'm just mentioning my mistake in case it helps.

I used an electric heat gun to warm up the area around the bushing so it would expand enough to let the bushing squirt out. Seems hokey but it did help.

Just wanted to throw this out there as a follow up to the ACME rod for bushing presses. I completely forgot about McMaster Carr when I was ordering my parts but came across them again recently when looking for some other acme parts for a completely unrelated project(moxon vise.)

I didn't have any issues with the plain steel rod breaking but I am realizing I may have been lucky and although my bushings had a good amount of corrosion they were clearly not seized. I dealt with seized frame bushing on my frontier last year and it was one of the most frustrating things I've ever done(didn't try a press but hours of drilling, cutting and chiseling.) The point of this is McMaster Carr has different grades of steel for their ACME including alloy which is Grade 7 vs Grade 2 and has over double the tensile strength. Hope this helps some of you and definitely regretting not knowing about this option earlier when I was praising my set up, I apologize for that.

McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/rods/acme-lead-screws-and-nuts/
 
Looks great! Care to share the link, that color is perfect.
 
Got the Loncky steering wheel cover for the cruiser all stitched up. Process was fairly tedious, but I'm happy with the result.

View attachment 2817046

Nice - I did the same in mine last summer, and it's definitely one of the main things to sprucing up an old/worn interior. Yours turned out a little better- I think I skipped a stitch or something along the way and wound up with some extra material in back of one spoke of the wheel - or maybe just couldn't get it to tuck in and stay. But overall, for a couple hours in the car listening to music and sewing it on, great update. It's an easy thing, for those that want to attempt - just take your time. It'll be a couple hours of sitting there stitching, but it's worth it. Especially if your OEM wheel has cancer like mine did. 😅


This is the one I got - I don't know if there's a different brown/ tan these days, but the only one that sounded right is the one I got and it's... about right.
 
Kept it simple and changed the oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid and brake fluid. Granted now my oil gauge is all over the place now despite it being topped off. From what I have read, looks like either the oil filter or the oil level sender. Will check it out again this weekend!
 
Bunch of one banana jobs lately for me.
First, I noticed one of my AC line insulator things broke. Didn't want to pay $$$ for a rubber piece so ordered one that was similar on amazon.
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Been sitting on an ASFIR front skid plate for a minute so I slid under and bolted that one on (ignore the missing bolt, the head broke off prior to my purchase of the LX)
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And then I finally replaced my eBay special awning that snapped in multiple places while using it at a beach last year with an Ironman one using Gamiviti multi-brackets
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Next things to do are to install the Air Lift rear bags, Ironman rear springs and spacers and re-index and crank the torsion bars, oh, and replace the front steering rack (not looking forward to that day).
 

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