Builds Let's not call it a restoration... Chopped down FJ40 to 45ish on an FZJ80 chassis BUILD! (1 Viewer)

[HandForged]

I'm moving this thread over to this section although it has been going on for a couple months on the 40 tech section. I thought it was more appropriate to have it here where folks are used to cutting, welding and fabricating. There's a lot that has been done so far but I will try to catch you guys up to speed.

The drivetrain: A well built (220hp) VW 1.9 diesel, with lots of go fast goodies and more to come. Manual pump, upgraded injectors, turbo, intake and exhaust manifold as well as stud girdle, studded head and full overhaul. Mated to a R150 Toyota 5 speed with a Diesel conversion specialists adapter kit. V-6 Clutch pressure plate and flywheel.

The chassis: 1993 FZJ80, 2.5" OME lift, slee offroad lower arms, 4.88 gears

The body: 1964 FJ40 cut down into a slightly longer Truck cab.

The Goal: To build a lightweight Fj45(ish) pickup for daily use. Custom fabricated service body, roll cage, creature comforts and above all Dead reliability. Zero electronics of any kind. A lightweight, diesel, bombproof truck that will see everything from dirt roads to Moab.

 

[HandForged]

Here is where I started. A rolled 93 fj80 with a solid frame and a good amount of work done to it already. A decent early FJ40 rolling chassis that was an extra parts truck here. The drivetrain was pieced together from a few sources. The 1.9 VW diesel was pulled from a built and running Passat which I experimented on for a good little bit before pulling the engine.

 

[HandForged]

Here is where we are now. FJ80 frame stripped down, FJ40 chopped down to start the body work to create a truck (UTE) as they call it in OZ. Drivetrain has been assembled and ready to install.

 

[HandForged]

Today's work. Tub was measured out and taken apart. Removed from the frame and stripped down to move onto the FJ80 chassis for some quick measurements. Then I'll start working on the body mounts and tub location on the chassis to see where and if I want to extend the frame. I am looking for a proportional truck with good approach and departure angles. Now this isn't a necessity but for a truck that will see trails and highway being build essentially from scratch, why not? Once the cab is set onto the frame with permanent body mounts installed I can locate the drivetrain and then start the fabrication on the custom bed. That is the part that will take some time. It will be a winter project for me so I am hoping to have it ready to at least drive out of the shop by spring.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

 

[HandForged]

Had a message or two asking about the Primer/ coating I was using on this project. So I just took a picture of the cans for you guys following along. It is military issue CARC... (Chemical Agent Reactive Coating) this is used with a polymide epoxy primer. First off let me say, this is BAAAADDDD *hit. You do NOT want to breathe it or spray it without a respirator. They say this is the lowest harmful content formula but I can tell you, don't believe it. One whiff of this stuff in the can and I said Nope...

This is the exact recipe used by the Military for painting everything that they have. It is only available through Sherwin Williams industrial coatings division for those wanting to order and it isn't cheap. I purchased several gallons of it for a few military truck restorations in the past. Trust me when I say this and listen closely. If you use this on your truck, it will be the last finish that goes on there. I am not exactly sure what chemical action that takes place when using the part A (primer) and the topcoat but I can tell you it's not coming off. Not without a grinding wheel. After it is applied and cured all paint remover does is turn it a darker color...HA! I'm not a paint and body guy and I am not trying to decipher the complexities of why this paint does what it does, all I know is my personal experience with it. This stuff is available in all of the standard military paint codes, tan, green, light green, white, black and a darker rust brown and if there are others I am not aware of it.

For me I will be wire wheeling the rust, shoot or brush the primer straight on and never worry with it again. You can even apply this stuff with a roller if you want. The primer is self leveling as is the top coat. Just please don't get it on anything you don't want to be that color forever.

Pro Tip: Go buy a cheap HF HVLP gun to shoot it, don't run it through your Sata's and the other high end fancy guns. It isn't going to make a difference. The finish will end up with a heavy peel no matter what you spray it with. It's something to do with the chemical reaction between the paint and the primer. I've had Pro's spray it with the high dollar (thousands of dollar) professional guns and I got the same results from a cheap HVLP gun at home that you can essentially use and throw in the garbage.

 

[HandForged]

just went out and put a couple test patches of the primer on the tub to judge dry time again. This stuff goes FAST! about 5 minutes and it was dry to the touch. Cure time is around an hour. I'm putting two coats on the we'll do some testing for fun.

 

[HandForged]

So this afternoon I had a little time to work on the tub. Got all the paint removed, rust ground out and a coat of the CARC epoxy primer shot on to the bottom. I'll shoot a coat of raptor liner on it so that once it is set on the frame I won't need to flip it over again to work on it. This is all just preliminary rust prevention and to cover the metal. There are some small rust holes in the floor but I can repair those from the top once it is set onto the frame. As I mentioned in the title, this isn't a restoration.

 

[HandForged]

I really love getting emails from parts manufacturers, I'm not naming any names here but it rhymes with "Harlin". I contacted them about their Toy box, that is being heavily advertised and promoted on the website that they are apparently not making...LOL. I really think they need to take all the videos off of the website if they're not making them or the adapters for them or pretty much anything related to them? Do you think?

On the bright side I did get a prompt response from them telling me that although the toybox would resolve a drivetrain issue for me and do exactly what I wanted it to do, they aren't making them.... so there's that? BUT, I was invited to email them and get on some kind of list for the piece that they aren't currently making...

 

[HandForged]

ONE more thing and I will digress....

It is absolutely astounding how little the tech people from the various companies know about the products that they are selling. I spoke with two different companies (very well known) and their tech people were absolutely worthless. They had no knowledge past what they could read off a screen in front of them. Yes, I am asking unorthadox questions to use their products in a way to better suite my needs BUT it would seem to me these guys would need to have general toyota knowledge, is that asking too much? One tech line operator had no idea what an R150 transmission was. The other one didn't know that the R150 was used in the V-6 tacomas.... What do you do with that? Why am I having to do all of the research here on their products to figure out if they will work or not. What happened to Techs that knew crap? Earlier this season I contacted Diesel Conversion specialists about an adapter that they sell. They put me through to a tech that not only knew his stuff but also knew the technical specs of the parts they were selling. He went BEYOND what I needed to know for my application and was more than helpful. Is it too much to ask for other companies to put someone on the line that knows what he's talking about? How are people supposed to buy their products if no one there knows if it will work or not. Geeez.... rant over.

 

[HandForged]

Today I got all of the underside of the tub coated in a heavy layer of Raptor bedliner this afternoon. The epoxy CARC primer will seal up the metal for me and the Raptor liner will protect it from abrasion that would open it up again for the metal to rust. I will continue this cycle all through the assembly. Undercoating with raptor and the exterior will be painted in CARC. The inside of the engine bay will also get a layer of reflective heat and sound deadening material. Epoxy primer/ raptor liner/ heat reflector over all of that. The most important thing I am after is noise and heat reduction. These will give me about the best I can get there.

One other thing that I am doing in this process is drilling through the recessed body mounts. In the future I want to be able to locate the bolts inside the tub instead of under the support members for removal. I anticipate having to remove the body a few times in this process and This will not only make it easier to do that but it will make the connection points stronger in the process.

I'll be getting the two parts of the tub mated together tomorrow most likely so that I can set them on the 80 chassis to start locating body mounts. I am hoping to have it in place and the engine transmission in place before Christmas. The drivetrain is located by the firewall on this build or I would certainly already have the drivetrain sitting in the frame. Such is life I guess, everything in stages

 

[HandForged]

Today's progress. Cleaning and cutting!

Started removing all of the 80 body mounts and cleaning up the frame in those locations for epoxy primer. I was amazed at how thin the mounts and frame are, not a lot of meat there. Removed the front frame sections before the front crossmember. This will become my new front bumper of sorts. At least the basis of it. Next step there will be to cut and sheet with 3/8" plate on the front, bottom and sides. My bib should locate just behind this cross member with the radiator support mounted to a piece of 1/2" wall channel that I will weld in behind it. Keeping good clearance on the steering stabilizer. I have seen some that remove this completely and move it back but I figured it was a good base for the very minimal crash bar I have planned for the front. As I am locating my winch centrally in the rear of the chassis, there is no need for anything protruding from the front that doesn't need to be there. I'll weld up a good solid base with the plate and bend up a hoop with a stinger of sorts to protect the bib and radiator. The plate will contain the small conical fairlead I need to fabricate and a strong Pad eye, that's it.

On a side note: the second to last picture in the series shows the approach angle with a 285-75-16 tire on the wheels and 2.5" of lift... It is about Zero as it is, with the larger 35-36" tires that are planned it will be really nice.

 

[HandForged]

While I was at it I started working on the Central winch part. Essentially what has to happen is the winch is mounted in the middle of the chassis. In my case I am mounting it more towards the back bumper. It faces towards the rear, travels through a set of sheaves (pulleys) in a block and is redirected to the front of the truck and exits through the front bumper. I have seen this setup before and it is used quite often in the offroad challenge trucks. First of all I had to find a clear path to travel. In many of them the cable is just exposed under the truck and has a few guides along the way. I was thinking more of using tubing. If the cable breaks or something happens underneath the truck I would rather it not rats nest and take other parts with it. So I went down to the shop and brought back a half stick of heavy wall 2x2 tubing. At first I was just using it to check pathways and use it as a straight edge but the more I messed with it I realized that it would work as I had pictured. I cut a square hole into the front cross member and started feeding it into place. With no flexing of the tube it centered itself directly to the right side of the upper link mount for the rear axle. There is a path directly through there. The only interference that I see is the brake line coming from the rear junction. I was able to just massage it a little and move it out of the way. So it makes a clear shot, front to back.

 

[waiting for time]

How are you going to feed the wire on the drum?

 

[too tall]

I would think about all of the other things that need to go in between the frame rails before adding that tube for your center winch idea. I think you are going to run into issues with something because that tubing is in the way . I would maybe mount the engine/tranny/transfer and plumb the exhaust etc. before finalizing the placement of that piece.
I do think that rearward facing winches are a bit of a waste of time. I have never seen anyone use a rear mounted winch on a trail and I believe the idea of having to go backward off or out of an obstacle because you are stuck is the wrong mindset.
Forward is the way. If I even think I might not make it up an obstacle before I attempt it, chances are better that I won't because of that idea itself. I don't entertain that train of thought personally. I prefer to go up all of the obstacles I approach. I do like the idea of your build though, I have a few "apocalypse" cars in my stable .

 

[HandForged]

I would think about all of the other things that need to go in between the frame rails before adding that tube for your center winch idea. I think you are going to run into issues with something because that tubing is in the way . I would maybe mount the engine/tranny/transfer and plumb the exhaust etc. before finalizing the placement of that piece.
I do think that rearward facing winches are a bit of a waste of time. I have never seen anyone use a rear mounted winch on a trail and I believe the idea of having to go backward off or out of an obstacle because you are stuck is the wrong mindset.
Forward is the way. If I even think I might not make it up an obstacle before I attempt it, chances are better that I won't because of that idea itself. I don't entertain that train of thought personally. I prefer to go up all of the obstacles I approach. I do like the idea of your build though, I have a few "apocalypse" cars in my stable .

The tube is there temporarily for now, it won't be welded in until I do a good bit more measuring. Keep in mind that the drivetrain I am using is not only narrow and small but it is also all essentially on the right side. The 1.9 diesel is 1/3 the size of the 1fz that was removed. Driveshafts and exhaust are both on the passenger side. I will most likely set the drivetrain into place today to check clearance but it looks really good.

On the topic of rear facing winch. This isn't a dedicated trail truck. It will be living in the mountains of Montana. I understand your point about trail winching. I've been doing it for 30 years. The beauty of a rear facing winch is when you have to winch some other guy up the trail. Not having to turn around and get my nose pointed to them is a huge plus. Add to that, being able to use it around the farm and various other chores. I have winches on every truck that i have. For me here it isn't a want, it's a must. I know the average person on this forum doesn't live the way that I do but winching logs for firewood out of draws and pulling trees down are a weekly affair here among other things.

One other thing. Mounting the winch in the rear or center isn't so much about having a rear winch, it's about the transfer of force. Creating a better lever point under the chassis of the truck versus dragging it around by the nose. I would love to work out a way to use one winch to pull from the front, back and both sides. I think it is possible but I'm not going to put much effort into right now. I started a thread in winching and recovery just for this part of the build. There will be lots more information there about it. Including a video that is pretty good.

 

[HandForged]

How are you going to feed the wire on the drum?

If the cable is directed to the center of the drum with a cable tensioner and a fairlead it will feed just fine onto the drum. More than likely it will be winch rope in the end and not cable which is a little more particular about feeding.

 

[HandForged]

First mock up. The Tub is sitting within an inch of where it will reside. The drivetrain as you can see will need to move back a good bit. Good thing is that everything clears by a LOT in every dimension. As it is I have 13" from the pulleys to where the radiator will reside. It will need to move back another 8-10 inches for it's final location. All I have done at this point for motor mounts is machine flat plate to bolt to the side of the little diesel. Knowing that things would change as it got into the 80 chassis. Should be easy enough.

The first impression I had when I got it all in place and walking around is "Man this thing is TALL". The 285's on it look tiny and I had a small concern that I wouldn't be able to get 38's on there without more lift or something stupid like a body lift. Well that is not a concern anymore AT ALL. I have room for 42's...

There was a concern expressed earlier about clearance for my tube that was mocked up for the central winch idea, well....not anymore. The first picture there illustrates that fairly clearly. There is nothing on that side of the engine to interfere with the exception of fabricating a motor mount. Which needs to be a good bit taller than the stock mount in the picture. When it is gone there will be 3-4" clearance all the way around it. There is a power steering bracket on the engine that looks close but that will be relocated to the other side of the engine. Combined with the engine needing to be lifted about 4" or more in the chassis to get it leveled and square to where the motor mounts will go.

 

[HandForged]

Fabricating body mounts in the forge all afternoon. Simple 1/4" wall rectangle tubing cut to shape, semi-boxed for some strength. Didn't take any pictures of that... Spent a few hours mocking up the steering column. Removed the column from the FZJ80 and studied it for a while and started dissecting. I want it as high in the dash as possible. Removed all of the brackets, including the side ignition switch/ lock assembly to essentially end up with a smooth round tube. Guess what? It fit great. I will fab up a bracket tomorrow to weld to the bottom of the column tube and give it a little more strength there. Column clears the brake pedal nicely. Not sure about the shaft length in relation to the firewall as of yet. It looks slightly short to have the knuckle pass through the firewall. I'll secure it first, then measure again. I may have to lengthen the shaft slightly to put the joint outside the firewall. I will also likely fab a flange at the firewall to give the column tube a little more support there.

I did all of this for a few reasons. Even though I am looking for a bare bones rig, I still want things like intermittent wipers, tilt and built in turn signals. Now I could have purchased an aftermarket column and made that work but I'd rather put a little time into something that I already have to end up with something better. After it's all said and done I will cope the plastic shroud to clear the dash in tilt. So far, I dig it!

After the body mounts are finished and welded up and tied it being able to steer the rolling chassis around while I do various other things is the next important step, so I thought I would get a head start on it.

 

[HandForged]

here's a couple better pictures of the steering column in place. Looks good and I will most likely be able to just shorten the intermediate shaft to get the right length. I will most likely open up the hole in the firewall as I am pretty sure the knuckle is going to rub the current small slotted hole for the stock column.