Carburetor Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[Nate98]

I’m checking my carb this weekend and see that choke valve is not fully closed (horizontal) when choke is fully pulled. But, the choke shaft turns fully to the stop and I can cold start with the choke pulled after 4 or so gas pumps. Do I need to adjust? And if so, how? I’ve searched the FSM and see on 2-15 that choke valve should be “fully closed” but then on the carb assembly section (6-53) under choke breaker, there’s a choke valve opening angle of 45*.

I’m attaching picks of my carb with choke fully pulled as well as pushed in all the way.

Thanks,

 

[mwebfj60]

Can’t really tell from the pics but the clamp for the choke cable is where the arrow is pointing below. Check to make sure the end of the cable sheath isn’t pulled past it. If you loosen the Phillips screw a little, you can pull the cable/sheath back toward the valve cover and that will give you more throw on the choke plate. The choke breaker pulls the choke plate open just a bit as soon as the engine is started so it’s not fully choked.

 

[Spike Strip]

It may be moot anyway cuz it looks like your accelerator pump is worn and leaking. Rebuild time.

Plus, that rubber ring on the air horn is supposed to go inside the lip of the air cleaner. That's why it looks crushed .

 

[Nate98]

Thanks. So with the engine off and choke fully pulled, should my choke plate be fully horizontal and closed?

 

[Nate98]

It may be moot anyway cuz it looks like your accelerator pump is worn and leaking. Rebuild time.

Plus, that rubber ring on the air horn is supposed to go inside the lip of the air cleaner. That's why it looks crushed .

I was afraid of that, too. Rebuild recommendations?

 

[Spike Strip]

Two Land Cruiser Carb gurus:

In Burbank, CA 65swb45

Marks Off Road Home Page

Ohio: FJ40Jim

A Toyota Land cruiser specialist with parts and service

 

[John McVicker]

The choke plate is suspossed to fully close. You've got maybe a 3mm gap.

It's impossible for it to go fully horizontal...but it should 'close', with no gap.

 

[Nate98]

Pulled the carb this afternoon to start the rebuild. That was a bugger getting it off. Didn't realize the air cleaner needed to be completely removed first and then it took a while to find the four mounting bolts. Here are some pictures.

What do you think of all the oily buildup on top of the valve cover? Would that all be result of leaky accelerator pump spray, or do I have more to worry about?

If you see any other blatant items for concern in the pics, please point them out! This will be my first attempt at a rebuild.

Thanks!

 

[morganism]

Make sure there are no cracks in the spacer under carb, it is a weak point when old. Also wiggle the lower J pipe a bit, and make sure it isn't loose and leaking. A lot of folks have to JB Weld that vac pipe.

If you bought a basic rebuild kit, make sure you stack the main carb body gasket, and make sure all the holes are there. Some of the cheap ones are missing 1 or 2 secondary pass thru holes, and will give you major pains trying to troubleshoot going forward.

 

[Nate98]

Howdy folks, I have some disassembly questions for the knowledge base:

Question 1: The discharge weight is not coming out of the carb. I presume the steel ball and spring are in there, too. I can tap it and see it move, but it does not fall out. The snug fit doesn't give me any way to grab and pull it or wedge it out. I soaked the carb body in chem-dip over night (after disassembling all the other parts) but it still will not fall out. How can I get this out?

Question 2: I cannot get my secondary vacuum actuator with the diaphragm in it off of the body. The two screws are stuck. Used WD-40, oil, carb cleaner. Can't get a vice grip on it in that small space. So, opened it and took out the diaphragm to evaluate it. I think it still looks good. Do I need to remove it for any reason? Is there a gasket between the vacuum casing and the carb body?

Question 3: Pin Head's videos say that the two venturi look different, and his do. Mine are identical in size and shape. Is that wrong?

Thanks!

 

[John McVicker]

On #2, as I recall: it's not 'necessary' to remove those 2 screws and mine too were a bear to get off. I was able to get needle nose vise grips on one screw and kept working with a good fitting screwdriver & pressure on the other one. Eventually I got them both off. WD40 is a poor penetrant, use Liquid Wrench or similar.

On the diaphragm itself, it's difficult to determine if it's still good just by a visual inspection. Try to form it into a bowl shape, set it level & fill it up with water to help determine if it leaks.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

On the weight. Take a home use staple (not from a staple gun), bend one end out straight and push it up into the hole from in the bowl and it might pop up. Mine was stuck and that’s how I was able to get it out. There was no spring hence why it wasn’t popping upward.

Sometimes they are staked inplace too. You might need to use a razor to carefully smooth the edges where they contact the housing.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

And the venturis are the two parts that have a circular ring of metal below the pipe that is on an angle? Pretty sure of the 4 carbs I’ve had in parts infront of me all were the same on each.
Person to verify it best would be Jim C.

 

[Nate98]

On the weight. Take a home use staple (not from a staple gun), bend one end out straight and push it up into the hole from in the bowl and it might pop up. Mine was stuck and that’s how I was able to get it out. There was no spring hence why it wasn’t popping upward.

View attachment 1800463

Sometimes they are staked inplace too. You might need to use a razor to carefully smooth the edges where they contact the housing.

Sweet. The staple worked after a little effort. Thanks so much!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

@Nate98, glad it worked!

 

[Nate98]

Installed the carb after my rebuild yesterday. It’s idling heavy and dying easily. I worked a little with the idle speed adjustment until I got run out of my open garage by the exhaust. There was a light visible smoke coming from the carb top while I was adjusting idle screws. Any ideas on this? Possible new gaskets and some spilt fuel from initial install or something I need to worry about?

 

[gregnash]

Installed the carb after my rebuild yesterday. It’s idling heavy and dieting easily. I worked a little with the idle speed adjustment until I got run out of my open garage by the exhaust. There was a light visible smoke coming from the carb top while I was adjusting idle screws. Any ideas on this? Possible new gaskets and some spilt fuel from initial install or something I need to worry about?

yeah I would think that it would be cleaner burning off along with the gaskets setting. Did you ever get your tune right?

 

[Nate98]

No. Last weekend i started adjusting idle screws and could not get it to idle unless choke was at least half pulled. Even with a high idle speed.

Then after working on it for a while, It wouldn’t start at all. Like it was over heated or something. The next morning it started in choke but I haven’t had time to work on it anymore. Maybe tomorrow.

Did some forum searching. Read possibilities from bad solenoid to big vacuum leak. I don’t know what the culprit it yet.

 

[gregnash]

Normally if the truck will not idle without choke that is an indicator that the ICS (Fuel Cut Solenoid) on the carb is not working. Pull the ICS plug and check that it is connection properly, if you look around on the forum there is a procedure to test. I had the same problem where it wouldn't run without the choke pulled and my ICS was dead. Can happen since you remove while cleaning and could possible break the wires.

 

[Nate98]

Yes, I think it was your comment on another thread that I read about needing to check the ICS. I have yet to find the procedure test you reference on the forum. Hopefully I'll come across it, but let me know if you have a link or know what to search for besides the 10 pages of results that come back from "fuel cut solenoid check".