Carburetor Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[gregnash]

Yes, I think it was your comment on another thread that I read about needing to check the ICS. I have yet to find the procedure test you reference on the forum. Hopefully I'll come across it, but let me know if you have a link or know what to search for besides the 10 pages of results that come back from "fuel cut solenoid check".

If you don't want to pull the ICS, if I remember correctly the easiest way is to do the following...
- turn key to OFF
- get under hood and disconnect ICS plug (green plug)
- turn key to ACC (maybe it is the ON position, just not starting the engine)
- Plug ICS back in and you should hear click.

When you plug the ICS into power you should hear a clicking come from it. It is fairly loud (if you look way back in my thread in dec 2015/jan 2016 you should see the video where I test mine) so if you don't hear any clicking then yours is likely dead.

 

[morganism]

and don't forget...

1984 FJ60 Engine Sputtering, Bucking

 

[Nate98]

Thanks. I tried the click test last night. It definitely clicks when key is on and I plug back in. Just feels like my carb is starving. I hear a wheeze sound from it and then it dies. DIdn't have much time to work with it last night but even choked it was dying quick without my foot on the accelerator. I'm guessing maybe a vaccuum leak somewhere? Or I rebuilt something wrong...but I felt like the rebuild went well.

 

[gregnash]

How far have you turned out the fuel mixture screw (on the side closest to the valve cover)?

 

[Nate98]

1 1/2 to 2 turns out

 

[gregnash]

1 1/2 to 2 turns out

That's part of your problem... FSM says to start at 2.5 turns out and then work from there... JimC (@FJ40Jim) recommends really 3 turns out as a starting point. You are running WWAAAAAAYYYY too lean.

 

[Nate98]

Interesting, my FSM downloaded from here says for USA, it should be 2 turns. The non-USA guidelines are 2 1/2. The pinhead youtube videos said to start with 1 1/2. So I tried both. I've also adjusted them out further. But I will start again with 2 1/2 to 3 and see what happens. Are these guidelines for desmogged? I still have all my smog equipment but I also know i have a small crack in my intake manifold.

Also, what is the starting point for the idle speed screw? I messed with it some last week to increase my idle speed and I need to get it back to a good starting point but I don't see a setting for that.

As always, thanks for the advice

 

[gregnash]

Interesting, my FSM downloaded from here says for USA, it should be 2 turns. The non-USA guidelines are 2 1/2. The pinhead youtube videos said to start with 1 1/2. So I tried both. I've also adjusted them out further. But I will start again with 2 1/2 to 3 and see what happens. Are these guidelines for desmogged? I still have all my smog equipment but I also know i have a small crack in my intake manifold.

Also, what is the starting point for the idle speed screw? I messed with it some last week to increase my idle speed and I need to get it back to a good starting point but I don't see a setting for that.

As always, thanks for the advice

Like anything else, take what is given with a grain of salt. Many of use "shade tree mechanics" have only gone through this and things have worked for our particular situation. The 3 turns from JimC is for a desmog guidelines but there are TONS of factors that play into the idle of the vehicle, not to mention the fact that you have a decent vacuum leak in your intake system if you have a crack in the manifold like you are saying..

That needs to be handled first and foremost.. From there you should start messing with everything else as that is going to change things A LOT.

As for the idle speed screw.. dont know that there is a "starting point" for that. Maybe start with it just touching the plate then go from there. Look through the FSM for all the tuning help. But again, that intake leak needs to be handled.

 

[Nate98]

Thanks. I planned to handle the intake leak next. I just wanted to see if my carb rebuild worked before I started messing with something else. - keep the moving variables to a minimum. I had the crack before the carb rebuild so that was my line of thinking. I appreciate it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

have a small crack in my intake manifold

No crack is a small crack. Take it from all of us. It will be your nemesis until you pull it and have it repaired.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Show Me Your Crack.

 

[Nate98]

Any idea what this is? My carb solenoid is connected as you see in the first photo. The second one is from under the car. Third shot from above. It’s not connected to anything.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

#2 is the heat sensor on the manifold for the carb fan.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

#1 does your carb solenoid only have the black wire attached? The other is cut? If so I believe your positive is the one cut. @OSS can you clarify for him?