PN for Upper Intake Manifold Gaskets? (1 Viewer)

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Will Van

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Anybody know the Toyota part numbers for the two upper intake manifold gaskets?

Intake_Manifold_Gasket.jpg


Upper_Intake_Manifold_2.jpg


TIA!


...and yes, my Toyota FSM is on order and in the mail so I don't have to keep asking these PN questions.
 
I think you need 17171-66010 and 17179-66010.
 
Anybody know the Toyota part numbers for the two upper intake manifold gaskets?

Intake_Manifold_Gasket.jpg


Upper_Intake_Manifold_2.jpg


TIA!


...and yes, my Toyota FSM is on order and in the mail so I don't have to keep asking these PN questions.


While you are in there open up the wiring harness near the EGR and see how things look. Now is the perfect time to get those wires repaired if needed.
 
While you are in there open up the wiring harness near the EGR and see how things look. Now is the perfect time to get those wires repaired if needed.

Great minds think alike. I'm going to delete the EGR, delete the PAIR, replace the heater valve, bypass the rear heater, and replace all the rubber radiator and PCV hoses. Replace PHH and delete the throttle body coolant lines. Clean up all the vacuum lines under the manifold. Plus charcoal canister/EVAP to atmosphere.

Might delete the Fuel Pressure VSV, but I still need to do a little more research on that. Maybe just relocate.

While I have it all apart I'll check the harness and make sure it hasn't burned up from the EGR hardpipe.
 
Great minds think alike. I'm going to delete the EGR, delete the PAIR, replace the heater valve, bypass the rear heater, and replace all the rubber radiator and PCV hoses. Replace PHH and delete the throttle body coolant lines. Clean up all the vacuum lines under the manifold. Plus charcoal canister/EVAP to atmosphere.

Might delete the Fuel Pressure VSV, but I still need to do a little more research on that. Maybe just relocate.

While I have it all apart I'll check the harness and make sure it hasn't burned up from the EGR hardpipe.

Overall a good plan but two things I'd do differently: 1. Leave the fuel pressure VSV in place and 2. either clean out/refurb the charcoal canister or replace it with an aftermarket unit.
 
Overall a good plan but two things I'd do differently: 1. Leave the fuel pressure VSV in place and 2. either clean out/refurb the charcoal canister or replace it with an aftermarket unit.

1. I probably will not delete it. I just might relocate it.

2. Agreed. I'm not deleting the charcoal canister. Just venting from the charcoal canister to atmosphere. Or are you saying to go ahead and replace/refurb the charcoal canister while I'm in there?
 
For emissions purposes (not testing, but rather to avoid fuel smell) I'd say leave the charcoal canister lines in place so that the fumes go back into the engine. There are some threads on refurbishing the oem canister since they are no longer available (cleaning out the check valve and replacing the charcoal). Option 2 is to replace with a autozone unit (also threads on this).

On mine I'm getting pressure in the fuel tank that causes vapor to release when the gas cap is removed so the whole charcoal canister thing is currently on my radar.
 
more on this?

We do it on some S/C rigs, they make plenty of heat, maybe/hopefully. :hillbilly:

It will slightly reduce intake air temp, but... When operated in cool/cold humid conditions, the throttle body can freeze up, cause the throttle to stick, or big intake restriction/power loss, ice chunks going into the motor, etc. Been there, not fun, overall, for most, throttle body heat is a good thing.
 
We do it on some S/C rigs, they make plenty of heat, maybe/hopefully. :hillbilly:

It will slightly reduce intake air temp, but... When operated in cool/cold humid conditions, the throttle body can freeze up, cause the throttle to stick, or big intake restriction/power loss, ice chunks going into the motor, etc. Been there, not fun, overall, for most, throttle body heat is a good thing.

Figured this was the case. Those lines are obnoxious, the only reason i asked! Thanks for the explanation.
 
...When operated in cool/cold humid conditions, the throttle body can freeze up, cause the throttle to stick, or big intake restriction/power loss, ice chunks going into the motor, etc. Been there, not fun, overall, for most, throttle body heat is a good thing.

Have you had this happen to you? The circumstances where this could occur seem very narrow. With all the heat under the hood, it seems like it would have be very cold and wet.
 
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