Need Help Removing Inner Alternator Bearing (1 Viewer)

[Dissent]

I'm rebuilding my "new to me" Sequoia alternator and ran into a snag. I've removed the rotor but the rear bearing is on the shaft. The problem is the collar around the bearing. I don't have a very narrow jaw puller. Does anyone know a puller make/part number to pull this thing off?

 

[Dissent]

I found Toyota SST 09820-00021 Alternator Rear Bearing Puller but it's $125. Is there a cheaper alternative or is there anyone in Phoenix that has one I can borrow?

 

[flintknapper]

Hard to tell from the pic, but IF some of the bearing sits above the level of the fins on the fan blade then you might be able to catch the bearing in a vice ...then tap the shaft out of it (use a brass hammer or punch).

I wouldn't think the bearing is press fit on there very tightly.

 

[-Spike-]

I have lots of tools, but not that one. @Tools R Us ?

 

[mudgudgeon]

you could possibly jerry rig something your self. Can't see the full shaft to see what you're dealing with

I've done similar by cutting the head of grade 8 bolts and grinding them to shape to mimic a two jaw puller, then drill two holes in a bit of plate so you alternately tighten down the bolts with the plate across the end of the shaft

 

[Tools R Us]

Those are done with a split collet type puller, not a common tool. What is wrong with the bearing? Ham-fisted attempts are like to end in a junk armature.

 

[Dissent]

That collar blocks getting under the bearing.
The alternator has 80K on it. Thought I'd replace the bearings and brushes before installing it. Front bearing is in, easy peasy. This one turns a bit rougher than a new one. Would be nice to replace. Don't want to booger it or the rotor.

 

[Dissent]

Those are done with a split collet type puller, not a common tool. What is wrong with the bearing? Ham-fisted attempts are like to end in a junk armature.

The SST looks like a double arm type puller. The split collar I was prepared for, that dang shoulder/collar thwarted my plans.

 

[Dissent]

you could possibly jerry rig something your self. Can't see the full shaft to see what you're dealing with

I've done similar by cutting the head of grade 8 bolts and grinding them to shape to mimic a two jaw puller, then drill two holes in a bit of plate so you alternately tighten down the bolts with the plate across the end of the shaft

That may be the plan. Can't put a plate across the shaft, could damage the phenolic insulator that would wreck the rotor. A tiny screw pushes into the center to prevent damaging the insulator.

 

[Dissent]

Hard to tell from the pic, but IF some of the bearing sits above the level of the fins on the fan blade then you might be able to catch the bearing in a vice ...then tap the shaft out of it (use a brass hammer or punch).

I wouldn't think the bearing is press fit on there very tightly.

There's over 1/2 the bearing above the collar, vice could mangle it without removing it is my fear. Don't want to risk hurting that shaft and contacts too.

 

[Dissent]

Fixed it! I just clamped the rotor in a vice then took 2x big flat blade srewdrivers and pried up on opposite sides, against the shoulder, and the bearing moved up. Progressively larger screwdrivers removed it completely. New bearing dropped right in and the case went together without any issues.

Thanks for all the advice and help guys!

 

[flintknapper]

There's over 1/2 the bearing above the collar, vice could mangle it without removing it is my fear. Don't want to risk hurting that shaft and contacts too.

No. Worse case scenario is you would pull the outer cage away from inner race. Ball bearings would fall out and then you would have plenty of room to use a small two jaw puller to remove the race. But I see you've already gotten it off.

As suspected, it just isn't press fit on there very tightly. Good to be cautious though. Good job.