Y link one ton clearance issues (1 Viewer)

[jigglebear]

i have recently installed the over the knuckle gm one ton y link on my 80 and I’m discovering clearance issues with my Panhard. I knew I was going to have some touching in my land hard bar to my tierod which I wasn’t to concerned with because I was going to replace the Panhard anyways but now I discovered while hitting out large speed humps going in and out of my base I’m also hitting the Panhard bracket on the tierod. Is this normal? I have a OME lift kit which I believe is the 3 inch but I’m not positive because I bought the rig with it and the only I can find for number or markings on the springs is one rear spring has a tag on it that says “j”. Do I need to replace my whole Panhard set up on the front end and relocate it to the rear of the axle or will 1 inch spacers solve my issue until I can get the four inch lift from dobinsons like I want? I hope the pictures explain my issue a little better.

 

[Jgunner]

I am doing something similar, gotta see if i have clearance issues. Might be easier to push the axle forward a bit?

 

[Douglas S]

Axle side panhard mount should be relocated regardless.

Panhard needs to be parallel and in the same plane as the drag link if you don't want bump steer.

 

[GW Nugget]

calling @nukegoat @joez @jcardona1 these guys have had or have Y steer linkage.

 

[jigglebear]

If I remember correctly my Panhard does maraca the angle of my drag link. It drives no different than factory.

 

[NV1971FJ40]

Just payed a little more attention to your set up. Maybe you would be better off running the slee double sheer steering arm setup. Why did you switch to this steering anyway?

 

[richardlillard1]

calling @nukegoat @joez @jcardona1 these guys have had or have Y steer linkage.

Not all of them have had Y-link.

Y-link steering is garbage. I don’t understand why so many land cruiser people are so excited to switch to something that everyone else’s trucks came with, while those people are in a hurry to ditch it for something that doesn’t suck.

 

[jigglebear]

Apparently I made a mistake. I was just trying to make my steering stronger. I didn’t want to bend my tierod on the trail and have issues. I guess I should of done more research.

 

[jigglebear]

I suppose I plan on relocating my Panhard now. Do I have to run a crossmember from the passenger side to the driver side for the Panhard mount or was that just front factory to beef up the system?

View attachment 1707174

View attachment 1707175


Just payed a little more attention to your set up. Maybe you would be better off running the slee double sheer steering arm setup. Why did you switch to this steering anyway?

 

[joez]

Not all of them have had Y-link.

Y-link steering is garbage. I don’t understand why so many land cruiser people are so excited to switch to something that everyone else’s trucks came with, while those people are in a hurry to ditch it for something that doesn’t suck.

Packaging, strength, and cost. And I have no issues with my Y-link, but I also have my hydro assist attached to my setup.

I have some contact with my stock panhard mount, but it is much less than yours as my front axle is pretty far forward from stock. Either raise your panhard, or move your axle forward.

 

[richardlillard1]

Packaging, strength, and cost. And I have no issues with my Y-link, but I also have my hydro assist attached to my setup.

I have some contact with my stock panhard mount, but it is much less than yours as my front axle is pretty far forward from stock. Either raise your panhard, or move your axle forward.

I don’t run Y-link stuff. I agree hydro helps; still not a fan.

The panhard contact I get is from the lower links on my 3link touching the panhard. It clears by about 1/8” at ride height so I’m not surprised by this.

 

[Uglymud]

For those of you who don't run a y-link setup, what is your setup? I'm about to move to the y-link myself to stop the radius arm hitting the tie rod. Although I have thought about just going ahead and three linking if my setup wont interfere with my tie rod.

 

[SNLC]

GM off-set tres are available and will help clearance issues.

I ran Y-link, until I rolled my truck. What @NV1971FJ40 has pictured above is pretty much exactly how you want to do it. You could run tres in place of the hemis.

Cheers

 

[baldilocks]

I suppose I plan on relocating my Panhard now. Do I have to run a crossmember from the passenger side to the driver side for the Panhard mount or was that just front factory to beef up the system?

Stronger? Don’t take this wrong but, by the looks of the bottom side of your 80 you haven’t wheeled hard enough to come close to breaking what you had before. You could have simply upgraded to 1.25x.125 dom tie rod and drag link for strength. I have run lots of rocks on 37’s and never had an issue with stock rod ends and apparently neither does anyone else.

You can’t raise your track bar because it’s alread in line with the drag link. The guys who raise the axle mount did a higher high steer than yours.

You are tampering with a SYSTEM that was engineered by real engineers. One modification leads to the next to the next and so on until your vehicle has been completely re-engineered, and possibly ruined, and your pockets are empty and worst of all, you missed out on the fun part because you were under your junk constantly.

Wheel it hard and it will let you know when you have gone beyond it limits. Your money would go further by overhauling your power steering system and getting rid of the paper clip PS fluid cooler. Reliability is your trump card.

On another note, I just moved to WA from Vacaville recently. Best move I ever made.

 

[jigglebear]

Stronger? Don’t take this wrong but, by the looks of the bottom side of your 80 you haven’t wheeled hard enough to come close to breaking what you had before. You could have simply upgraded to 1.25x.125 dom tie rod and drag link for strength. I have run lots of rocks on 37’s and never had an issue with stock rod ends and apparently neither does anyone else.

You can’t raise your track bar because it’s alread in line with the drag link. The guys who raise the axle mount did a higher high steer than yours.

You are tampering with a SYSTEM that was engineered by real engineers. One modification leads to the next to the next and so on until your vehicle has been completely re-engineered, and possibly ruined, and your pockets are empty and worst of all, you missed out on the fun part because you were under your junk constantly.

Wheel it hard and it will let you know when you have gone beyond it limits. Your money would go further by overhauling your power steering system and getting rid of the paper clip PS fluid cooler. Reliability is your trump card.

On another note, I just moved to WA from Vacaville recently. Best move I ever made.

No offense taken. I haven’t had time to wheel it because I have been working on it more than it’s driven. The PO didn’t treat it very well and has been a problem child for me. I’m not going to buy new knuckles to go back to the old system so I’m stuck where I’m at. I may just end up three linking it from the looks of things. I have talked to other guys about this same set up with a four inch lift and no issues clearing the Panhard bracket on the drivers side. I’m not sure what springs I have in the front so I’m sure I’m not at a 3 inch lift being the front steel bumper and 12k winch and my dual batteries. That’s all the added weight that will be added on. I’m going to settle with spring spacers for now until I can afford to do the lift I really want. I can live with the Panhard and tierod contact. I have also seen the offset tierod ends but from what I’m seeing I can only do that on the drivers side. In the future I will be running 37s and will be wheeling this thing hard. I actually bought my 80 because I was sick of constantly fixing my fj cruiser because I wheeled it too hard. So for now she looks real clean underneath haha. I do appreciate your input tho. I’m still learning and I am willing to try just about anything to fix my Issue. I have most of the tools to do just about any job and the skills to do so.

 

[richardlillard1]

For those of you who don't run a y-link setup, what is your setup? I'm about to move to the y-link myself to stop the radius arm hitting the tie rod. Although I have thought about just going ahead and three linking if my setup wont interfere with my tie rod.

I run the factory setup with my 3 link. It works well. I think the frombe steering is pretty well thought out anyway and with a RHD arm you can add hydro assist pretty easily

I intend to upgrayedd (with two D’s, for the double dose of pimpin’) to GM 1-ton crap when I do the hydro assist because the GM drag link ends can misalign more than the Toyota ones, allowing me to run longer shocks if I want to for more travel.

The tie rod will still be behind the axle. The drag link still in the front. Just harder, better, faster, stronger. All that Daft Punk stuff.

If I were putting the tie rod on the front of the axle, I would be into some sort of crossover. Now that I’ve run a 3 link with the original steering design, I would set it up that way again unless the axle were bigger (like a Dana 60 or the like).

 

[Uglymud]

I run the factory setup with my 3 link. It works well. I think the frombe steering is pretty well thought out anyway and with a RHD arm you can add hydro assist pretty easily

I intend to upgrayedd (with two D’s, for the double dose of pimpin’) to GM 1-ton crap when I do the hydro assist because the GM drag link ends can misalign more than the Toyota ones, allowing me to run longer shocks if I want to for more travel.

The tie rod will still be behind the axle. The drag link still in the front. Just harder, better, faster, stronger. All that Daft Punk stuff.

If I were putting the tie rod on the front of the axle, I would be into some sort of crossover. Now that I’ve run a 3 link with the original steering design, I would set it up that way again unless the axle were bigger (like a Dana 60 or the like).

Do you have any pictures of your 3 link, don't think I've saw any that kept stock steering yet.

I agree crossover seems like the cats meow, I just don't wanna pay for slee hi steer arms or hellfire knuckles right now, but who knows lol

 

[richardlillard1]

Do you have any pictures of your 3 link, don't think I've saw any that kept stock steering yet.

I agree crossover seems like the cats meow, I just don't wanna pay for slee hi steer arms or hellfire knuckles right now, but who knows lol

I don’t have many pictures, but this is when I was putting the axle under th rig. You’ll have to use your imagination to put the other components in place. It isn’t the prettiest, but it gets the job done and works well. The next time the Panhard is off the truck I intend to make some more room for it next to those brackets.

EDIT: The only thing I would change is those garbage ballistic joints, which have been nothing but a pain in the ass. I’ll make the switch to some FK heims in the future.

 

[Uglymud]

I don’t have many pictures, but this is when I was putting the axle under th rig. You’ll have to use your imagination to put the other components in place. It isn’t the prettiest, but it gets the job done and works well. The next time the Panhard is off the truck I intend to make some more room for it next to those brackets.

View attachment 1707449

Looks like what I was thinking, but I don't know if at four inches of lift I have enough clearance to use that tall of a center link mount. Gotta get that separation somehow tho

 

[richardlillard1]

Looks like what I was thinking, but I don't know if at four inches of lift I have enough clearance to use that tall of a center link mount. Gotta get that separation somehow tho

I don’t know how much clearance you would have at ride height but mine has kind of cold worked the motor mount a little when that side compresses.