New to the 70 series, what to look for or what to avoid (1 Viewer)

[cruiserfien]

I am thinking about diving into a swb 70 series. I do not know much about these vehicles but I found a LHD BJ70 hard top that has peaked my interest, however I really don't know what to look for. (example--on a 80 series I look for the k294 axle code that tells me it has factory lockers). Are there any significant markers in a VIN or vehicle stamp that I want to avoid or pursue? The one I am looking at has the 3bt diesel engine.

Does the VIN disclose anything? .

Any help would be greatly appreciated Mud Nation.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

What year, and where did it come from? 24 or 12V? Turbo must be an add on. Like all old cruisers, rust is a major concern. Have any pics?

 

[cruiserfien]

What year, and where did it come from? 24 or 12V? Turbo must be an add on. Like all old cruisers, rust is a major concern. Have any pics?

This is all I got on the vehicle. See pics and thanks for the response

 

[Josh NZ]

That looks more like an early Landcruiser Prado, or LJ70/71 model. Similar body style but had coil suspension instead of leaves (unless it’s a really early version which had leaves too) and the 2.4 turbo motor coupled with what looks like an R151 trans. Less heavy duty than an equivalent BJ70

 

[cruiserfien]

That looks more like an early Landcruiser Prado, or LJ70/71 model. Similar body style but had coil suspension instead of leaves (unless it’s a really early version which had leaves too) and the 2.4 turbo motor coupled with what looks like an R151 trans. Less heavy duty than an equivalent BJ70

thanks, this is the kinda info I am looking for since I am out of my element here

 

[Devils Paw 80]

As I recall that engine has a bad rep for cracking heads.

Something looks funky with the ambulance doors and bumper on that photo. Perhaps it's just the camera angle.

 

[joekatana]

As I recall that engine has a bad rep for cracking heads.

Something looks funky with the ambulance doors and bumper on that photo. Perhaps it's just the camera angle.

The rhd JDM spec 2LT's where pretty bad but the European versions like this one did not came with the emission equipment that killed most of these,plenty of 30 year old 2LT's with over 400K on them rolling around in Europe without any rebuilds , mind you it is a lot cooler there then some parts of the US and I would recommend an intercooler to drive it around in any of the warmer states here.

Less then 5% of these came with lockers and the ones that did are all in the hands of offroaders or parted out,easy to add lockers since the axles are similar to the old 4runners and mini trucks here.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Thats a light duty 70. Look at the spring towers in the front, if they are rusty, they are difficult to repair. I wouldn't get too hung up on lockers. They can go a long way with the right tyre pressure and good suspension and lockers can always be added later.
Its all about getting a good reliable vehicle.
Check the body around the wheel arches, body mounts , windscreen frame and any seams in the metal for rust.
Its LHD so its most likely from South America or Europe. That info is contained on the body plate in code.

The one I am looking at has the 3bt diesel engine.

You mean 13B-T. You will pay a lot more for one of these. If you do, get the BJ74 not the BJ70. 10 inches in length makes a world of difference

 

[saltycoconuts]

10 inches in length makes a world of difference

So I've heard....

 

[FJ73Texas]

lol.... @saltycoconuts The way you snipped/quoted that and responded made me laugh.

 

[Dprio34]

@cruiserfien that looks exactly like the LJ70 I bought from Spain, pre 1990. Just a heads up, a lot of parts changed after 1989.

Regarding the VIN, which is on the cowl between the brake booster and the heater valve, it will probably say something like ####LJ70##R151F###

I am not aware of axle or other part codes built into that VIN (not to say there isn’t).

Only body rust on mine was in the rain gutter and around windshield gasket/seal.
You can screw the cover for the wiper inter connect system and look for rust in there as well.

Pull the top Radiator hose off where it connects to the thermostat/ filler neck.
If the aluminum is pitted, I’d walk away unless you are getting if for $6000-7000.
Or you are prepared to rebuild the front end of the engine; cooling system, oil pump.

Rear Bumper appears to be a welded on I-beam. Front bumper has been painted black and so has the grill.

Do a good inspection of the radiator and steering box. They will probably need to be rebuilt, so factor that in to your costs or you bargaining.

Body looks to be in decent condition from the pics you posted, but you’ll have to make the final determination on that.

 

[cruiserfien]

Thanks mudders for all the input. That is why I turned to you. I have decided to pass on the LJ (I didn't realize there was a LJ). I want a BJ model to build out--- Again many thanks for the quick tutorial--came in very handy for my decision making.

 

[FJ73Texas]

If you wait another year (or two?), you can find the HZJ70 depending which market you will import from.

 

[OGBeno]

Bring your wallet to the party. Doing things correctly with new OEM parts is expensive. No two ways about it-- regardless of what anyone says.

 

[OGBeno]

If you wait another year (or two?), you can find the HZJ70 depending which market you will import from.

X 1 million.

Do not go backwards in this purchase. Get the newest iteration (25 years old to the month) that your billfold will allow.

Trust me. You will be happy for the long run if you go in this direction.

And in all honesty, there are only a few people I would trust with this procurement:

@SteveJackson
@joekatana
@RMP&O

 

[stayalert]

I'm not so computer literate so I will try to say what I am thinking ----insert up arrow----I echo what Benzio has said.....

 

[Gun Runner 5]

@roscoFJ73 .... "get the BJ74 not the BJ70. 10 inches in length makes a world of difference."
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also excellent advice ^^^^^^

 

[joekatana]

Funny how everyone wants to stay away from the LJ’s . I want to import one as a daily driver , those coil springs ride so much smoother then the leaf sprung HD cruisers and that 2LT can easily be given that little extra performance to make it very fun to drive ........ and if that little 2LT ever gives up I will swap a Toyota V8 in it

 

[saltycoconuts]

Funny how everyone wants to stay away from the LJ’s . I want to import one as a daily driver , those coil springs ride so much smoother then the leaf sprung HD cruisers and that 2LT can easily be given that little extra performance to make it very fun to drive ........ and if that little 2LT ever gives up I will swap a Toyota V8 in it

Off topic, but I’ve always wondered how well the LJ’s with the front coils rode. My buddy has a totaled rear ended 80 series and I always wanted to try and have him take a swing at swapping some of the front components over (is it even possible?) to make for a better ride. Would you have any input on this
Mahalo!

 

[SNLC]

Off topic, but I’ve always wondered how well the LJ’s with the front coils rode. My buddy has a totaled rear ended 80 series and I always wanted to try and have him take a swing at swapping some of the front components over (is it even possible?) to make for a better ride. Would you have any input on this
Mahalo!

It is really not that hard to convert to coil springs.

The main issues are frame widths and axle widths. The coil sprung trucks for the most part have wider frames and wider axles. So that is the biggest hurdle to overcome.

Coil sprung will almost always ride better than leaves. Coils are easier to "tune" as well and leaves take a lot of work to get just right. It all comes down to the ride of the leaves (spring rates), caster, drag link angle, shock travel and so on and so forth. Leaves though can be made to ride nearly as nice as coils, it just takes a lot more work as well as money. Coils are much easier to dial in if you are not starting from scratch.

It should also be noted that with a linked suspension (80-series rear and even radius arms) pinion deflection is not nearly as much of a problem as it is on leaves. To really understand all this I suggest googling some of the things I mention in this post, such as; pinion deflection and suspension geometry.

Radius arms, that are fitted to LJ's front & rear, are far from the best when it comes to suspension geometry. Thing is, they suit 80-90% of users and do ride much nicer than leaves. They also wear out a lot faster. This is the nature of the beast with coil springs.

Don't expect anything impressive from an LJ flex wise due to the radius arms but for 6" and smaller bumps, the coils will soak it up nicely. Apples to apples, coils will always be better than leaves. But don't underestimate leaf springs, with the right amount of work and care, they can be nearly as good, especially in something other than a SWB truck.

Cheers