One thing is for sure, I’m really diggin’ the blizzard white with a black wheel set.
Some New “New” Wheels! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Evoking
- Start date
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I’m not on board with the lower load rating, but my truck is heavy. I have aftermarket front & rear bumpers, fatso sliders, a winch, & a roof rack, and when we headed out to wheel, we had six people in the truck with luggage and a mountain bike.
All of that said, the rims are cool looking.
All of that said, the rims are cool looking.
- Thread starter
- #23
This must just be an oversight on their part of the wheel too new. I know Discount doesn't put wheels on that are not compatible. Also, FYI... Per the site NONE of the Black Rhino wheels listed for our 200 have north of 2450 load. In fact most are 2250 as seen at this link. Apparently the company isn't worried about their wheels failing due to being under the 2512 lbs that was stated as stock load. In this lawsuit ridden society that says a lot.
Net net, it seems we are ultimately geeking out on this.
I'm no expert, but I'm also not a worry wort. Something tells me the aftermarket industry has an algorithm to determine the required load per vehicle. The OEM wheel load apparently doesn't mean it is the minimum. It just means that what Toyota did. Sort of like the forged wheels on a high performance car might be 17lbs. But that doesn't mean a 19lbs wheel would be dangerous.
- Thread starter
- #25
Geeking out is what we do here in the 200 section.
Yes yes, all part of the fun!
Markuson
SILVER Star
I'm on board with meeting load ratings too.
On the other hand...when is that last time anyone heard of a wheel that failed due to load?
Honest question. I've never seen any reference to such a case. Has anyone here got a reference? Honestly curious.
On the other hand...when is that last time anyone heard of a wheel that failed due to load?
Honest question. I've never seen any reference to such a case. Has anyone here got a reference? Honestly curious.
Very rare. Bent wheels are a concern on cars with low profile tires, but not very much when you have a lot of sidewall.
Still, why not have light and strong, which is why I went with the Rock Warriors. (17">*.*)
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gaijin
GOLD Star
That's a good question. There are ceratinly many, many examples of failed aftermarket wheels (Google it).
However, it is not just catastrophic failure that concerns me with the wheels in question. I have not seen anywhere that these wheels are hub-centric and NOT lug-centric. If they are not hub-centric, this could easily happen:
Further, the wheels in question have an offset of 12mm. That means the wheel sticks out almost 2 inches further than the stock wheel (60mm-12mm = 48mm -or- 1.9in).
My only point in all this "geeking out" is that we should be aware of the specifications and requirements of our wheels when we look for new ones. There are a lot of great wheels available out there with Load Rating >2500 pounds, with a hub-centric design, and with appropriate offsets - why not choose one of them instead of rolling the dice with something way outside the design criteria?
That's it from me.
HTH
Markuson
SILVER Star
That's a good question. There are ceratinly many, many examples of failed aftermarket wheels (Google it).
However, it is not just catastrophic failure that concerns me with the wheels in question. I have not seen anywhere that these wheels are hub-centric and NOT lug-centric. If they are not hub-centric, this could easily happen:
Further, the wheels in question have an offset of 12mm. That means the wheel sticks out almost 2 inches further than the stock wheel (60mm-12mm = 48mm -or- 1.9in).
My only point in all this "geeking out" is that we should be aware of the specifications and requirements of our wheels when we look for new ones. There are a lot of great wheels available out there with Load Rating >2500 pounds, with a hub-centric design, and with appropriate offsets - why not choose one of them instead of rolling the dice with something way outside the design criteria?
That's it from me.
HTH
Thank you @gaijin. Good points & perspective, as always.
- Thread starter
- #30
That's a good question. There are ceratinly many, many examples of failed aftermarket wheels (Google it).
However, it is not just catastrophic failure that concerns me with the wheels in question. I have not seen anywhere that these wheels are hub-centric and NOT lug-centric. If they are not hub-centric, this could easily happen:
Further, the wheels in question have an offset of 12mm. That means the wheel sticks out almost 2 inches further than the stock wheel (60mm-12mm = 48mm -or- 1.9in).
My only point in all this "geeking out" is that we should be aware of the specifications and requirements of our wheels when we look for new ones. There are a lot of great wheels available out there with Load Rating >2500 pounds, with a hub-centric design, and with appropriate offsets - why not choose one of them instead of rolling the dice with something way outside the design criteria?
That's it from me.
HTH
Really! Now we’re just grasping at straws and looking for areas to increase our pocket-protector extraordinare status LOL. Hub-centricity is often a given for nice wheel companies so many do not explicitly list.
1) Yes they are hub centric. They run buttery smooth at ALL speeds
2) Regarding the other “Alfalfa-esque” (yes from little rascals) dig on them being out 2” over stock let’s certainly hope so! Stance is a key reason I buy aftermarket. When wheels sit far in the vehicle looks anemic and weak. Most prefer broad shoulders
. If they sat far in like stock and one used spacers - even bolt on spacers - we would lament no spacers should ever be used!Course the silly banter is also part of why we enjoy forums so much
Here are some pics of my vehicles tastefully improved with non-stock wheels that might not pass the Alfalfa test but I certainly love!
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I’ve seen a handful or taco’ed wheels. One on my own truck. Ranging from Methods to the beloved RW. All of which were rated for the load. I personally wouldn’t wheel with a wheel not rated for our load. But like everyone else said, you do you. You’ve got a Lamborghini in the driveway, you can afford a new set of wheels if these fail ya.
- Thread starter
- #34
Wow, good to hear from someone that has actually had a "taco'd" wheel as you mentioned haha. And despite the supposed proper load rating to boot! Do share what on earth caused it - apparently most of us have never seen much less experienced it!
Markuson
SILVER Star
Really! Now we’re just grasping at straws and looking for areas to increase our pocket-protector extraordinare status LOL. Hub-centricity is often a given for nice wheel companies so many do not explicitly list.
1) Yes they are hub centric. They run buttery smooth at ALL speeds
2) Regarding the other “Alfalfa-esque” (yes from little rascals) dig on them being out 2” over stock let’s certainly hope so! Stance is a key reason I buy aftermarket. When wheels sit far in the vehicle looks anemic and weak. Most prefer broad shoulders
Course the silly banter is also part of why we enjoy forums so much
Here are some pics of my vehicles tastefully improved with non-stock wheels that might not pass the Alfalfa test but I certainly love!
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You forgot to post photo #6...
If your going even 45-50 on a rocky fire road and lose a sidewall, you lose tire pressure pretty fast. By the time you realize it, you’ve already hit a dozen good sized rocks before you can come to a stop.
Then you realize it’s beyond salvaging so you drive to sift sand to put on your spare.
Markuson
SILVER Star
It was a KO2. Method stood behind their product enough to give me a replacement wheel at half price. Hahaha.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Hmm... The photo isn't a KO2. Maybe that photo was just for example? Looks to be a Toyota AT3 with Open Country marking on sidewall.
If you did blow your KO2 sidewall (vs. this Toyo), that would be interesting, since IndyCole has blown at least 2 separate KO2 sidewalls recently.
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Hmmm. It may have been the Toyo AT2. I had those after the KO2’s. It now sits on Toyo RT’s.
