The ever elusive Water Control Valve Cable (1 Viewer)

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CruiserGord

CruiserGord

Joined
Feb 2, 2007
Threads
19
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Location
Edmonton AB
Good day gents,

So I finally got my cruiser back on wheels after being laid up since May, doing a 4 corner brake repair and upgrade to the larger style. This also included redoing the wheel bearings and birfields. Long story short I noticed while going for a test drive that my heater was not working. So upon further investigation I found that my heater valve control cable is seized and the front heater core is plugged. Not sure how long it's been seized for but once I manually opened the valve by removing the cable the rear heater started producing heat but not the front.

So...does anyone know where I can get a heater valve control cable if I can't get this old one unseized?
P/N: 55907-60080
Edit: fixed the p/n ^
So far google hasn't been very helpful with locating one.

BTW this cable is a b**ch to get at from inside but still accessible. The skin on your hands will be sacrificed reaching for this bugger.
 
Last edited:
CruiserGord said:
Good day gents,

So I finally got my cruiser back on wheels after being laid up since May, doing a 4 corner brake repair and upgrade to the larger style. This also included redoing the wheel bearings and birfields. Long story short I noticed while going for a test drive that my heater was not working. So upon further investigation I found that my heater valve control cable is seized and the front heater core is plugged. Not sure how long it's been seized for but once I manually opened the valve by removing the cable the rear heater started producing heat but not the front.

So...does anyone know where I can get a heater valve control cable if I can't get this old one unseized?
P/N: 90915-30002

So far google hasn't been very helpful with locating one.

BTW this cable is a b**ch to get at from inside but still accessible. The skin on your hands will be sacrificed reaching for this bugger.
Click to expand...

If you have figured out how to replace a seized cable with an oil filter, you ARE the man!!!! I would love to see pics of that.
 
HAHAHAHA! Oops! I Posted the wrong part number. Was searching for oil filters at the time I posted this! Sure wish i could whittle a new cable from an oil filter at this point. :doh:

Actual part number is: 55907-60080
 
Update:

It's been 5 days and the cable is still seized. Attempting to move the cable with pliers yields nothing. She's stuck good. I'll keep trying to unseize it while trying to find a new cable. :meh:
 
I have the same issue, will be watching how it goes.
Mind you the 2 temperature system I have, works well. I close the valve manually in summer and set it wide open the rest of the time, has been 4yrs
 
Small update:

Got ahold of a couple japanese companies that have this part in stock. One got back to me with an invoice and ready to ship so I pulled the pin since it was $27US. LOL the shipping was three times the cost of the part but that's what the "hobby" asks for.

The other company I made a pre purchase for the item and waiting for processing. Once complete I may just pay for shipping and get the second one sent over since the price is pretty much the same as the other company.

I'll post an update again once I get the part.
 
Update! Cable arrived in record time! It's a denso part and definitely looks OEM.

Maybe they make them from oil filters over there!(see pic) :rolleyes: :cheers:

Anyway I'm gonna tie the new cable to the old one and hopefully just pull it through and secure. Best case scenario I hope. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

Will report final update after install.

IMG_5598.JPG


IMG_5599.JPG
 
If you stil want to try to get the old cable going as a backup you might try a cable lubricator setup that some dirt bikers use on their cables or a plastic/pic pipe sealed one end and longer that can fit the cable in. Put your cable inside and fill with diesel, leave it submerged for a week and then try again.... Also, if you don't mind, how much did your new cable cost by the time you had it in your hand..... Thnx
 
Hey Ozwallaby,

The total bill with shipping was $21.27US. The part itself was $7.45. jp-carparts.com

I'll try to salvage the old cable but so far not one drop of penetrant has made it into the jacket and it's been soaking on one end for over a week. What I noticed is that the outer jacket is very stiff not like a typical bicycle cable. I will have to use a hair dryer and get the cable nice and hot before trying to fish it into the fire wall. You can see and feel that the cable doesn't run linear from the engine bay to the servo motor. When you do this you will need to remove the glove box and drop the glow plug module(2 screws) to have enough room for you to get your handup in to grab the cable. It is not going to be fun but better than ripping the entire dash out.
 
Final update:

The cable install was super easy! I used a tiny zip tie and connected the new cable to the old one on the engine bay side. Applied some silicon grease on the old cable at the rubber boot and smeared it up to the crimp head where it's zip tied. With the cable unlatched inside the dash and popped out of the jacket clamp, gently pull the cable until you see the new one. Use the markings on the old cable to reclamp the new one and hook onto servo motor. On the engine bay side make sure the outer jacket is fairly low, when clamped, to allow the cable to fully open and close the valve. Test multiple times to confirm valve is stroking all the way.

IMG_5600.JPG


IMG_5601.JPG


IMG_5602.JPG


IMG_5603.JPG
 
Tried to get the old cable to budge after getting it out. Still seized. I'll play with it some more later, after submerging it in some diesel.
 
My apologies for reviving this thread, but I'm about to tackle this myself, and I'm curious where the cable and actuator is under the dash. What did you have to remove to get at it from the inside?
 
Did this job recently. Remove the cable clip and cable from the heater valve on the firewall of the engine compartment. Tie a piece of heavy string to the eyelet, to be used in pulling the new cable through. Unscrew the glove compartment and remove. the actuater and cable are on top of the black ac/heater box (on the top right area of the glove box hole for a RHD). There is another spring clip a few inches from the eyelet that was a pain to put back on if I remember correctly. Think I used a big flat head.

Take note of the location of the cable shealth relative to the valve arm prior to removal so it can be reinstalled with enough stroke.

I was able to revive mine using pb blaster and a drill, as I didn’t want to wait. It’s cheap, so I would just order a new one if I had time.
 
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