Land cruiser 80 with 35s sway all over the road (1 Viewer)

[Snipedoggy]

Ooohhh thank you I'm prob gonna need the plates I actually don't know how much lift I have cuze I didnt put it on

 

[mudgudgeon]

Ooohhh thank you I'm prob gonna need the plates I actually don't know how much lift I have cuze I didnt put it on

Yeah, that's why a wheel alignment readout is helpful. doesn't matter how much lift you have. The read out will tell you how much caster correction you need.

 

[LFD2037]

Yeah, that's why a wheel alignment readout is helpful. doesn't matter how much lift you have. The read out will tell you how much caster correction you need.

I concur.

 

[gummycarbs]

Thanks guys can someone explain to me what a castor fix is? I heard something about changing bushings and some type of plates?? I'm gonna get smaller tires for towing and also I'm gonna keep the lift cuze it's a nice lift

Caster correction bushings, caster correction trunnion bearings, "washer mod", caster correction plates, 3-link, and cut-and-turn are all the options I can think of.

If I were doing it over, I'd use caster correction trunnion bearings, since I wanted to refresh the front axle anyway, and they don't affect pinion angle.

 

[gummycarbs]

our cruiser flys all over the road as soon as you let go of the wheel it starts going sideways

I have been wondering about some steering play I'm experiencing. It's particularly noticeably at a stop with the wheels turned maybe 30 degrees. Some searching led me to this, in a thread about adjusting the steering box to address wandering:

After watching my box being rebuilt, I will say that the adjusting screw that is accessible will probably not fix play in the system. The play mostly comes from the input side of the box, and can only be adjusted with the input section out of the box. The good news is that the design does not seem to wear, the force is transferred from the wheel to the piston through 44 balls, so lots of surface area. The problem is that the bearing on the input side loses its preload, allowing a tiny bit of movement, which translates into a lot of dead space in the steering. Before my rebuild, I had probably 30 degrees of no response in my wheel, after rebuild it's probably under 5 and may be zero. I barely move the wheel going down a freeway, and this is on worn 37" tires and a big lift. It's definitely worth doing, and do the pump while you're there. I will say, though, that while I consider myself fairly competent with tools, I chose to have a guy with some experience (Tool-R-Us on the board) do the rebuild, and I'm glad I did. There's some tricks involved. Not rocket science, but knowing what to do, what not to bother with, and having some SST's for checking the preload of the assemblies is somewhat critical.

 

[-Spike-]

I have been wondering about some steering play I'm experiencing. It's particularly noticeably at a stop with the wheels turned maybe 30 degrees. Some searching led me to this, in a thread about adjusting the steering box to address wandering:

Still happy with the results of this. Messing with the adjustment screw with the box in the truck is a recipe for damage down the road, and doesn't address the actual issue. For the record, rebuilding the box won't fix swaying, it'll just tighten up the steering.

 

[woodsman 44]

A pic of your 80 would help to diagnost your problems possibly