Builds Building Black Molly (1 Viewer)

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The 200 is a vehicle that can be helpfully "upgraded" (to varying degrees) by some distracted drivers. Well done.

It takes rear hits pretty well.
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After some time away from the LX to work on the Airstream, I managed to get it painted and have begun the arduous task of putting all the pieces back on.
 
Love the no rack and love the powdercoated 20s.
 
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Here's a pic of my LX after hydroplaning and doing several 360's sliding down the freeway and then clip the side of another vehicle that did the same thing they were already in the ditch. Estimated repair cost $15,000 in bodywork but no damage to any structural components these things are beasts. What did they estimate your repair costs at? Glad you're OK!


Thanks, but I was fine, didn't even pop any bags. But sliding sideways down a freeway at 50 was awesome.


A little, but I get by.


Bring it! $50/hour on the trail. XO


Nothing but nuts and bolts, I'm still surprised no one has lifted an AHC 200 yet, without doing a sensor lift. It's so simple to retain the AHC and factory ride/KDSS articulation on these. Not sure about a big lift, but 2.5" is a breeze.
 
Exhaust on!

Had our local shop run a dual pipe setup from the primary cats back with an h-pipe behind the transfer case into dual Flowmaster 40s, leaving there and routed together over the axle and both tucked and turned down like the factory and in the same location.

The sound is smooth and throaty and gets loud. It reminds me of a Range Rover supercharged but with less rasp and a little louder. I can definitely hear
It over the tires.

I've started reinstalling the interior and all the 200s of pounds of insulation and batting. I'm sure that will tone down some of the interior volume, just putting the rear gate and hatch back together made a huge difference.


I'll get a video tomorrow
 
I also got the ARB intensities mounted up.

I'm a little dissatisfied with them, for the price they should come with consistent hardware—one box had m12 mounting locks, the other just bolt and nut.

They also didn't come with connectors—lame!
 
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Dark pic
 
I also got the ARB intensities mounted up.

I'm a little dissatisfied with them, for the price they should come with consistent hardware—one box had m12 mounting locks, the other just bolt and nut.

They also didn't come with connectors—lame!

That's why these make for a killer alternative: STEDI Type-X 8.5 LED Driving Lights (PAIR)

All wiring, heavy brackets, clear and black filters, and no red bezel. $600 shipped.
 

OK, I have to ask. I've noticed it in a couple of your pics and just chocked it up to a work in progress, but now I'm not so sure. The gap between your snorkel and A pillar is just not right:

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Shouldn't the snorkel be attached to the A pillar?

:confused:
 
If by should, you mean according to the mounting instructions, then yes it should.

But I haven't figured out how close I want it to the A yet and I've got lots of other crap to put on that sits higher on the list.

Remember, up until Friday morning, this truck only had a dash on the inside and was pretty much stripped on the exterior.

What you're seeing is the tail end of about 300 billable labor hours and things happen in weird order—especially when you need it for towing.

But rest assured, when it is secured, it will be right, which is subjective. Furthermore, each fitment is slightly different on an LX since the Snorkel is designed for LC fender countours.



OK, I have to ask. I've noticed it in a couple of your pics and just chocked it up to a work in progress, but now I'm not so sure. The gap between your snorkel and A pillar is just not right:

SnorkelFunny_23SEP17_zps8swbyenu.jpg


Shouldn't the snorkel be attached to the A pillar?

:confused:
 
If by should, you mean according to the mounting instructions, then yes it should.

But I haven't figured out how close I want it to the A yet and I've got lots of other crap to put on that sits higher on the list.

Remember, up until Friday morning, this truck only had a dash on the inside and was pretty much stripped on the exterior.

What you're seeing is the tail end of about 300 billable labor hours and things happen in weird order—especially when you need it for towing.

But rest assured, when it is secured, it will be right, which is subjective. Furthermore, each fitment is slightly different on an LX since the Snorkel is designed for LC fender countours.

If it's not attached to the A...that's an awful lot of leverage that could grab and pull against the fender. I'ma thinkin it NEEDS to be snug against the pillar compare with attachment points, or it's gonna yank itself really hard against the anchor of your fender contacts.
 
You guys get this is a build thread, right?

I haven't secured it yet and its probably the lowest priority on my list.

But for all the guys who can't contain themselves, I'm thinking about using panel bond as opposed to drilling and using some inserts that could easily rip out of the thin steel. Since panel bond would have a larger surface area contacting the pillar, it should offer additional strength over the brass inserts and the added benifits of not drilling any holes.

I've had the snorkel on the truck for 23 hours now, how fast do you think I can work a 14 hour shift and put this truck together in one day?
 

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