Well couldn't wait for the weekend - lol - I put the BB's in and looped the line last night after work. Noticeably smoother idle was immediately felt , Ive filled up to check mileage over the weekend. Not to ditch the pump - lol -
1991 3F-E De-Smog Performed (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter spdwaver
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So I bought my '92 and it was already desmogged. I am assuming that I have the block off plate.... can you guy take a look at these pics and tell me if you see anything that needs addressed?? I have a semi-smooth idle, it gets a little bouncy (500-900 rpms) when the AC is on. I've never rode in a stock 80 so I have no baseline to see how good/bad mine runs... I get about 9 MPG.
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
You ALSO have them badass exhaust headers too!
yea I need to pull the rest of that heat wrap off of them and re-wrap. or just leave them. haha.
Ment to post an update - truck was noticeably quicker ( wife asked what I had done to it - lol ). Later that weekend ,guess what ? Fuel pump took a crap - had to park it while I scrounged the $$ to buy a new pump.
I have a de-smogged 91 on 35's. 9 mpg is right on the money...
I just did the BB's along with replacing all small vacuum lines (at least one - connecting the EGR to the Modulator - had a sizeable hole). I had gone from 10.5 x 31" A/T's to 12 x 33" M/T's in the last couple of days, and I hadn't though she could go any slower, but the bigger tires certainly added some drag. I think blocking off the EGR system brought her back to the familiar (if not impressive) level of acceleration I'd had with the smaller, smoother tires. That's the butt dyno, but it gives me great hope that my planned and long-overdue tune up will improve things even more. Thanks for this post!
Hi new friends! I desmogged my 1988 Toyota minitruck and loved it. I just bought an FJ80 with this done, or at least attempted. PO said he put BBs in the lines, removed the belt from the smog pump, and also smashed in the EGR valve with a hammer. I don't think the last part is SOP for a desmog so I'm guessing he messed something up plugging the lines and has just forced the valve closed.
I have a few questions, if someone would be so kind:
I have a few questions, if someone would be so kind:
- I'm getting code 71 (EGR) and it seems like most of you aren't. What trips the 71? On Toyota minitrucks the sensor looks for an increase in temperature on the EGR pipe and will trip the code if it doesn't see the temperature increase. Is there a trick to defeat it?
- I'd like to just remove all my smog stuff. Is there a parts list/guide for doing so? I want the space in the engine bay for other activities besides inoperative emissions equipment.
- Does anyone have a nice vacuum line routing diagram for the USDM 3F-E and also other markets? Being able to compare vacuum-operated equipment between markets that don't have all of it is mucho helpful. The US RN50 has ~30 vacuum lines while the Canadian one has maybe 5. In the truck world, we just make the trucks match up to the Canadian vacuum diagram and Boom! Desmog.
Y'all are so helpful. It turns out the code 71 can be defeated by shorting out the EGR temp sensor wires. No resistors or other fancy crap.
Still searching for that vacuum diagram...
Still searching for that vacuum diagram...
pengfinn
dead set
IIRC, Code 71 usually only shows up on Cali-spec trucks, I'd be surprised to see it pop up on a truck here. It's supposed to be an EGR temp sensor, which the wires can be shorted out on. I'm about to remove my EGR once I get a bung/plate to block off the port going into the motor.
As far as parts for the desmog, I couldn't be sure since mine had the smog pump bypassed by the PO. It uses a shorter belt, though.
As for the vacuum diagram, I don't know if the FSM might have copies for different regions or not, I don't have mine with me to check at the moment. Good luck if you haven't desmogged already, but if you have, I'll just leave this here for anyone who looks for this again later.
I'm finishing up the head assembly and the de-smog complete job i.e no smog pump, capped off exhaust, etc.. The original method says that the driver side fender is now cleared. So what happens with all the electrical stuff there? not needed anymore?
Well, there's the fuse box, but the 3 VSVs and their bracket can be removed. Note that the fuel pressure VSV helps with starting so you may want to relocate it.
OK had to mill the head, new intake exhaust gasket from Remflex. I got it all bolted back together yesterday afternoon. Now it has less power and high idle. I have the block off plate the exhaust plug, new belt. Can anyone provide pics of the vacuum lines that need to stay on a 92 FJ80 3FE? I even put in new 4 port injectors. If the brakes are somehow controlled by the vacuum, where and how? because there is not much pedal and I don't know if that is related to the overall situation.
You have to have the vacuum line going from the manifold (black thimble thing with two fittings) to the fuel pressure regulator. Everything else is optional. Some people prefer to leave the fuel pressure VSV between those two things as well.
any chance of you sending a pic? I would prefer to bypass the fuel pressure VSV since that is just one more thing to be failing.
I also lost track of the vacuum lines from the firewall end of the manifold to the TB or where else they might have gone to. I took pics before I started ripping into it but those pics went missing. so if you could send those as well would be a life saver right now.
I also lost track of the vacuum lines from the firewall end of the manifold to the TB or where else they might have gone to. I took pics before I started ripping into it but those pics went missing. so if you could send those as well would be a life saver right now.
Mkay, here's the FPR:
It has a vacuum line that connects to the fuel pressure VSV, and then to the manifold via this fitting:
But you don't want to use that VSV so you should just connect the two directly together
It has a vacuum line that connects to the fuel pressure VSV, and then to the manifold via this fitting:
But you don't want to use that VSV so you should just connect the two directly together
thanks so much for that. so just cap off the hard line that used to hit that line? will let you know if it helps.
Cap off the other nipple coming off the black fitting, and the two EGR ports above the throttle body. Those are the only places vacuum comes from. If you removed the evap canister you'll have the gas filter fitting as well but that's easy to plug off. Studying a vacuum diagram helps with the logic of it all.
I'm on 33's with 2.5" OME and getting around 10.5. I'm pretty tuned up. New plugs wires etc. I bought it this way so I dont know what the 3fe is like before desmog as its the only 3fe I have been in. I will say that for an armored up truck is does pretty good. IMO.
OK I plugged off the two EGR ports above the throttle body. are you saying that this is the source of all the vacuum in the system?
I did the reroute to the fuel pressure VSV and the manifold. Still no power. maybe a bad fuel pressure VSV? I can swap that out tomorrow if it ever stops raining.
this 3FE used to have power enough to pass a Prius before the head blew up. but now it is worse than ever.
I did put new generation 4 port injectors in and maybe without a EFI relay in line they don't have the juice to squirt?
I'll swap out the EFI electronics mañana when it stops raining.
I did the reroute to the fuel pressure VSV and the manifold. Still no power. maybe a bad fuel pressure VSV? I can swap that out tomorrow if it ever stops raining.
this 3FE used to have power enough to pass a Prius before the head blew up. but now it is worse than ever.
I did put new generation 4 port injectors in and maybe without a EFI relay in line they don't have the juice to squirt?
I'll swap out the EFI electronics mañana when it stops raining.
