MDH33's latest activity

From Owners Manual: Post 91 https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/choke-cable-variations.973037/page-5#post-11800614

That would be amazing! Maybe it's not an actual hand throttle like later years, but it's definitely not a choke cable. ISince I started this thread have come up with a couple of examples of other trucks with the same setup, but just can't find a...

Interesting. The cables look connected together, I'd bet that the gas pedal will pull through as in override the hand throttle like all the hand throttles I ever used. I still think it needs a lock or the return spring and vibrations will let...

I think what is trying to be conveyed, is that your 10/69 and newer carbs will not have a provision for the manual throttle cable attachment. I did previously have a correct carb for the 9/69, but have sold it and never installed onto my 40...

Here is a photo with a possible example of hand throttle cable routing for the 3/69-9/69 carb....see the cable going through the slot. That same member, @MDH33 posted elsewhere that both the accelerator cable and hand throttle cable are secured...

This is starting to make some sense. I'd assumed my carb was original because it's an April 1970 date. It was likely a replacement though. I have the remnants of that dual clamp bracket that was rigged up on my 1970 carb to hold the incorrect...

It’s not impossible to connect a hand throttle to a newer carburetor; I have done it. You need a bracket on the primary butterfly shaft for the cable to pass through (and an adjustable barrel stop to sit behind it) and a cable anchor that holds...

On my ‘69, both the choke and the throttle cables come through the center of the firewall along with the coolant temp lead.

OK, here we go, hope this helps. Loosely assembled on my workbench. Throttle cable is black, hand throttle right next to it is gray coil cable, and I put an empty gold coil cable into the choke location.

Yeah, that's my pic above. The 3/69-9/69 carb does have the long hand throttle cable going directly to the carb. I'll get a pic of the carb on the bench so you can see the linkage more clearly. Here's a pic from my 69 manual. Here's my dash...

We've been working away on getting parts off our shelf, photographed, and on the CruiserTeq.com website. We have hundreds (really thousands) of in-stock parts yet to process, but progress is progress. Most of these have been available to our...

A number of items on your 40 would manufactured no later than 9/71. That chrome cover on the valve cover which I assume is to fill oil and the lack of one on the passenger side of the block does no make sense for a 71 FJ40. The oil fill on the...

Death by a thousand cuts (of small rust repair) is more palatable? Also, many aren't aware of the size of the eventual worm can when they chip away at that first cracked bondo spot with plans to "fix it"....

Clear coating, or just putting paint over rust is not really "body work" as you aren't really doing anything to fix it. Either fix it for structural or aesthetic reasons (cut out all rust, weld in new and properly refinish) Or Thread...

Paint over rust is never good IMHO.

I agree, but that looks GREAT!!! ...and you will be able to sleep at night knowing you did it RIGHT!!! I did this on my blue 77 and am about to do the same on my red 78... although, I am not taking the red one completly off the frame like I did...

It takes a special kind of madness to choose door #3

On the outside I was just going to clear coat it and keep it as it is. Not sure what to do on the inside I was thinking to POR-15 in clear to seal it or I can completely repaint it. What do you think?

Your 40 looks like the twin to my '69. I'm starting to cut out rusted areas and replacing with new metal: rear sill, lower rear quarters and 2 small patches on outer rockers. Only way to really keep it from getting worse. I'm not planning on a...

I agree! I recently completed a rear sill replacement on an FJ40 model similar to yours, which had comparable issues and goals. I’ll attach the link below for reference. Here is my two cents: I appreciate the appeal of patina; it has a unique...

So Tuesday I did a thing… Loaded up the 40 with a buncha parts, and was on the road a 4:45AM (to hopefully beat some of the heat) to head 7hrs down the road to Winter Park, FL to meet the gang at Cruiser Matt’s Off-road and leave the 40 behind...

Here is the thread I made where I explain the sill replacement in much more detail. Thanks @jesus888 for letting me work on Old Blue Eyes! https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-rear-sill-fj40-step-by-step.1363939/#post-15988603

Great productive day. Cowboy approved.

More pics... Again, take your time and make sure you don't get the metal too hot and cause it to warp. Also, notice how the tire rack holes line up perfectly.

*** Step 10 *** After ensuring the sill and the cover fit perfectly, clamp it down and "plug weld" the new sheet metal sill cover to the bed floor and the sill. - Notice that there is plenty of good metal under the cover to attach to the bed...