Jack90210's latest activity

Yeah, I understand some folks are trying to save money but when I did my timing belt job I just replaced everything I took off. Pulleys, tensioners, Belts, hoses, radiator. It's a great feeling to have all new (OEM) parts up there for another...

My first fan bracket failure occurred on the LX at approximately 230,000 miles. I pay attention to any belt/pulley noise and nip it in the bud. Recently, I purchased another 2UZ (GX) with 250,000 miles. The fan bearing failed and let steel...

If you can answer these few Questions we can know if you Need to Change the Tees: Do you have a Will in an Offsite Secure Location? Do you have more than 1000$ cash on Hand for Emergencies? Have you had a Full Body CT Scan? Do you have Food...

Hi Bryan. We do not make them at 10*. We offer zero (flat) or 20*. Thanks! John

Sorry late reply, been busy. Checked mine earlier and it is an M14 x 1.5 bolt

OK - so its a few years late - but I just snugged up the RH bank to 17 ft.lbs too - all plugs still tight (#3 maybe moved 1/32 of a turn) - am happier with 17ftlbs torque (up from 15ftlbs original torque....)

It was rear drive shaft u-joints! Replaced with new premium spicer u-joints! What a difference; feels all brand new again! Also, I had a minor clunk or shift engagement I could feel putting the truck in reverse that also went away with the new...

I can't recall if I ever responded but since I'm the originator of this post I will update that my vibration/resonance went away when I got new tires about 5 years ago. My old tires were the original BFG KO. They were in balance. But new tires...

So quick update on my driveshaft balance. I drove up to Sacramento so I could take them to "Drive Line Services of Sacramento" given they had the best reviews around the NorCal area. Shop was bumping. Looks like in addition to a bunch of car...

That is beautiful, especially with the steel wheels and black bumpers. I bet it's non-metallic, maybe single stage. I don't think it's a U.S. market color, at least for the 100 series.

Remember that there is no way to measure how much is in your system without evacuating everything first. Just dumping in more refrigerant may help … or make things worse.

I would highly advised you take it to a shop and get it Evac and recharge to the proper amount, if you are over or under it could make a difference on the output and also you need to add some oil to the system to keep that compressor lubricated...

Easy to replace. I would do it. My recommendation is to swab the tee/hose with rubbing alcohol as an assembly aid, just before inserting into the hose.

I had an intermittent ABS warning light and warning buzz on the gauge cluster. Scanning codes said that it was a l had a C1256 (a accumulator low pressure) and a low voltage indication when scanning live data from the ABS module. I disconnected...

I checked this am noticed the brake fluid was well above the max fluid line. Be sure you follow the brake fluid checking procedure (described in the owner's manual and on the brake reservoir). You must shut off the truck, pump the brake pedal 40...

OEM Charcoal Canister replacement

Welp. My drivers side inner tie rod has finally gotten to the point where I’m gonna have to do some wrenching again, in reality they’ve both developed some play on acceleration, but the drivers side is pretty bad at this point. I weighed my...

Had another theory about the non-working steering wheel adjustment yesterday: There should be a beep/buzzer when you have the key in the ignition lock and the driver's door open, but there isn't. Hence I figured, that since this is a really...

The common denominator I’ve seen in 100s for the abs failure is the presence of rust/corrosion. This is one of my recommended pre-purchase items to check to my friends looking to buy one so they can negotiate more on the price as this is not a...

HIGHLY unlikely that it's just the diff, if it is the diff at all (there would likely be other symptoms/noises). Check driveshaft grease (it takes a LOT if it hasn't been done in a while), diff mounts, and worn splines and flanges, as those are...

Courtesy of @2001LC R-N-D Clunk w/video - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/r-n-d-clunk-w-video.1335661/#post-15421665

That DNR clunk is likely from worn axle splines going into the hub flanges. Go under your truck and grab the outboard axle side and try to twist it back and forth, if it moves and make little clunk then that might be your issue.

He owes you an explanation for exactly WHY you need a new differential. What year is your 100, and what seems to be broken? Dunno, $3K seems awfully high to me. Some guys replace their front diff in the 100 with a locking unit like this...

I too use NAPA rebuilds and they have always worked well for me, but I have recently heard (maybe here on mud?) that there are two series for rebuilds and they've stopped producing the "better" one. If anyone has more info on this, please share...

I went with NAPA rebuilds and was impressed with the quality.