duncanrm's latest activity

You are a machine, impressive!

Yes, 54mm Hub Socket required. If you're planning to own this 60 long term its an essential tool to buy. For bearing/hub/swivel hub work the other essential tools to own (in my opinion) are a good set of brass drifts, and a pair of duck bill...

Thanks a lot for the clear info! Good to know that 19 mm really is the minimum spec, looks like I’ll go ahead and replace them. I also understand now that I’ll need to pull the hub apart and re-pack/adjust the wheel bearings. Sounds like a good...

To get the rotor off, you're going balls deep into the hub, so plan to do wheel bearings and related seals, and consider doing the entire swivel hub if it hasnt been done in living memory.. Its absolutely a job that a beginner will find very...

Yes, 19mm is the minimum rotor thickness recommended by Toyota.

Finally .... Sorry didn't take much pictures.... Polished the shaft where both bushing goes .. the big gear bushings was better but very corroded too changed both anyway. Closed the t case , after pressing the 2 last bearings on the output...

To anyone interested, It's been a few years since my last post. I still have my cruiser, and she's still running great with the CT26 turbo. I don't drive it every day but she's close to tipping over the 400,000 km and uses no oil and starts first...

It sounds like a classic exhaust leak to me.

Ahah speed bumps , they feel like rolling over a garden hose 😅 Love them rock slider tho ! Very nice 👍

Went real smoothly in the end ! The front coûter shaft bearing is a barell roller and there is a washer in the back of it . Lucky I noticed it stayed there before It was all together. Removed it and kept going.putting that bearing cover...

Ahh figured it out. That’s the vacuum reservoir. Pump is on back of alternator.

They are cool.. I'd never run anything but the Aisin gear.. but they are cool!

Those are old school, there is another brand I’ve seen. You have the right idea, rotate those arms 180 degrees. If they’re seized you should disassemble them (6 bolts) and clean em up. Then check and lube wheel bearings.

Rock Sliders! Fabbed up by a local guy, young and enthusiastic.. so good. Cant be too careful, some of the speedbumps at my local shopping centre are gnarly a.f

Seen this on Instagram just a few minutes ago

Well nothing worked pulling it out .... Had to remove the pusher plate to get it out... And I need another clutch disk... But it's out Didn't clean the input shaft enough so it was hella stuck ...... Famous finger ..... And the damaged...

I went out and bought a 20v dewalt impact. Zipped it off like nothing. Had to rip the whole front apart though. Machine shop is making me a special tool out of 1/2" steel. It will go over the balancer and connect to all 6 (or 4 for 1HDFT) bolts...

The man is a machine!

I'm pulling everything off right now. I kind of came to the same conclusion as you. Interesting enough, the "Gregory's" aussie manual says to jam a prybar into the inspection port to stop up your flywheel ring gears. 😆 I've got a buddy coming...

Having done this job twice. Once one the side of the road in a snowstorm between Revelstoke and Roger's Pass with the tools I had on board....got me home 4000km away. Pull the rad, batteries and whatever. You can lock in low up against a solid...

Any mates got a big ass 18V impact wrench?

To be clear.. my suggestion is to clamp the feed line to the lift pump (from the tank).. this will determine if air is entering downstream of that point.. seems unlikely. I would very closely inspect that return line between injectors - and the...

Yea I see what you mean, the lines that run between seem like they could pose a problem. I definitely noticed it bending a bit when I tried to the nuts loose. I'll try clamping that return line and see if that helps. Thanks again your insight...

When you removed the injectors - did the injector return line rotate inappropriately at all? Sometimes when you remove the nut that retains the pipe on an injector the line rotates and you can crack the little pipe that runs between each injector...

You've read that guide I posted earlier? Once started, can you drive long distances without issue? The injector return line washers have been replaced (the ones with the little holes)?