thelal

Getting a spark now but no movement. tried tapping the motor casing as tip on/off the lead. no joy guess will have to take it apart and dismantle. Any things to look out for ?

Update: bulk QTY done. I asked that 10 pieces ship Express to fill the orders placed. The rest will arrive 30 days. On another note, I needed to replace my engine harness and once again was faced with hacking it to pieces. Last time I cut off...

Is there a confirmation on how to give the motor a 'spin' (jolt) ; just in case I have it wrong (with the 4 earths and 2 12v+) from the other post

I have ABS parts available in Chattanooga, TN if there’s a need. ully functioning when removed. Complete bits from a full delete. From the brake lines to the pump to the wheel speed sensors, wires, LSPV; all of it. No rust. No use.

There's a small round cover that provides direct access to the brushes. I don't recall exactly how I assembled it but I assume I rolled a thin sheet of plastic or cardboard into a tube that fit over the end of the armature and through the access...

I wanted to share a relatively easy fix for code 51 that may apply in some situations. On my '97 I noticed the ABS light earlier today and pulled the codes after a general inspection and test of the CDL, etc. The code that came back was 51 so I...

Not getting anything; tried tapping ABS unit but no difference Putting car to ON - see ABS come on and then out after few secs. Not moved car yet but suspect will trip again (code 51) once move a few feet Cleaning up rear sensors (checked fronts...

@thelal, I would never install a used trailer light convertor. They have really high failure rates. The link posted by Tools R Us fit perfectly using OEM plugs, no vampire taps.

@thelal I just pulled mine out...found it when I put in my rear quarter panel mount and it was in the way stuck to the inner fender. Mine wasn't plugged in to anything, so I don't know if it's ever had power run through it....I cannot say if it...

Not getting any movement or noise when applying voltage per the pins Any advice

looking for the same OEM trailer converter box if anyone has one

I've done some further testing that I apparently have not documented: a mix of tar, linseed oil and grease. I haven't done the saltwater test, but I like the theory I have: tar and linseed oil both like to harden when they're in such thin layers...

For the most part fuel mixture is governed by the O2 sensors. While a dirty MAF might give the ECM a bad base calculation, once the O2 sensor sees an out of spec mixture it will have the ECM compensate for it by adjusting the fuel trim. If you...

I think a dirty MAF will indicate a LOWER than actual airflow. This is because they work by using a set voltage to create a certain temperature in the wire. Deviation from the temperature is then measured as resistance changes. If you insulate...

95% is MAF sensor is bad or not reading well. 5% is a leak in the intake manifold. Inspect it and see if you did not pinched any hose wire .

So the mold was adjusted , casting were made and verified and full production has started. Next is machining then onto verification and finally shipping. 3-4 weeks I’m told.

When you pull the screws out, there may be some resistance bc the magnets inside are pretty strong. If one has come loose then that may be the cause. There is some resistance in there.

I didn't bother removing the seat, central console thing came out though. And as my countryman above says, some spacers help tighten everything up, I used oversized nuts threaded over the cable to effectively shorten it.

I managed to locate a brand new genuine IACV from an EFI parts supplier locally here in Australia. Unfortunately this did not fix the absence of a cold idle. The revs flare up momentarily before dropping. Which says to me that the ECU is...

I added little washers on the end to "shorten" the cable

Just repaired the passenger seat and the cap provided is too small for the threaded opening. It just pops in and out without grabbing the threads at all. I wrapped it with teflon tape and installed a set screw, fingers crossed. The press tool...

for those curious as to what the IACV idle air control valve looks like dismantled.

bit of an update: I backprobed the ecu and following sensors, tested for continuity and also voltage during operation: Engine coolant temp sensor - passed IAT sensor from air flow meter - passed Idle suction control valve - passed I installed...

nope, it was the alarm wiring under the steering wheel column! I removed that and it has started every time without hesitation.

yeah, but highly annoying, and definitely needs to be sorted. Every time I solve/fix one thing, another rears its ugly head haha.. the never ending story :rofl::bang: