What rod ends for steering? (1 Viewer)

[FLYINGLOW]

I am considering using 3/4" rod ends (or Hiems) for the tie rod and drag link when I do my high steer. I would like to know what type or brand guys are using.

A local race shop has QA1 chromolly ones or another large supplier has steel ones available but they have ultimate static load of 10000 to 12000 lbs depending on the different design. I am have not been able to locate or get an answer from the race shop on strength specs on the chromoly.

 

[Mace]

IMHO, actual TRE's instead of heims..

 

[Downey]

After you come to grips with the fact that non-lubricated Heim Joints are highly parishable, and generally replaced by the racers after each day of racing, then come to grips with the idea that you need 20,000 lb. joints, not 8-10,000 lb. joints. The weaker joints might last 3 months if you don't go off road. The stronger joints stand a prayer of lasting a few more months, but they also cost an arm and a leg.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

IMHO, actual TRE's instead of heims..

Thanks for the input guys, I respect your opinions. I didn't want this thread to turn into a TRE vs Hiems but Mace lets hear it... Why?

Downey (or Mace) do you know what the strength of a TRE is? I can't imagine them being hugely different.

 

[Mace]

My biggest gripe is purely the slop factor. And a lot of it is preference...

Heims will wear out faster with no good way of lubricating them. There are teflon injected heims, but the teflon has a tendancy of wearing out fairly quickly. Additionally, there is almost always slop assoviated with the exact size of the bolt and the size of the bolt hole in the arm or the through hole in the heim.

TRE's are lubeable, and the taper on thier "bolt" assures a snug fit.

Lots of people do use heims tho. If you do, get the strongest heims you possibly can and run them in double shear. if you do that, you most likely will have strong steering fora very long time.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Heims will wear out faster with no good way of lubricating them. There are teflon injected heims, but the teflon has a tendancy of wearing out fairly quickly. Additionally, there is almost always slop assoviated with the exact size of the bolt and the size of the bolt hole in the arm or the through hole in the heim.

Thanks Mace, I'm looking at some that are supposed to have some pretty good wear properties. I appreciate the input.

 

[Mace]

Make sure that you tighten the crap out of everything and that the holes are reamed instead of drilled..

And, make the arms double shear if you can.

 

[Isotel]

ive had issues with my Chevy TRE's (85 Blazer) wearing out, typically referred to as (1 ton). Ive replaced 2 of them so far.. and they are Mogg Brand from Carquest w/lifetime warrenty.. i grease them with every oil change..
I was thinking about switching to Heim joints, my rig is going to see less street and more trail miles.. Its also easier to carry 2 spare heims than 4 spare TRE's

maybe just a fluke thing, but its a pain, especially when it caused Horrible Death Wobble, and Jacked up my front tires pretty bad..

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Make sure that you tighten the crap out of everything and that the holes are reamed instead of drilled..

And, make the arms double shear if you can.

Mace I also think its important to make sure the threads aren't riding inside the bearing or steering arm, the shank should have better tolerance. Still won't be perfect but better... I'm gonna look into it and see if I can come up with some NAS bolts.

ive had issues with my Chevy TRE's (85 Blazer) wearing out, typically referred to as (1 ton). Ive replaced 2 of them so far.. and they are Mogg Brand from Carquest w/lifetime warrenty.. i grease them with every oil change..
I was thinking about switching to Heim joints, my rig is going to see less street and more trail miles.. Its also easier to carry 2 spare heims than 4 spare TRE's

maybe just a fluke thing, but its a pain, especially when it caused Horrible Death Wobble, and Jacked up my front tires pretty bad..

Ya, my freind had the same complaint about his 1 ton TREs.

 

[Mace]

Very true, get the shoulder of the bolt as long as possible. Then trim off the excess threads.

And, buy good quality bolts, from what I understand, some of the homedepot bolts are not helt to the same quality standards as other bolts are. But, that is hearsay, I have never actually spent time with a micrometer checking them. But it is cheap insurance so...

 

[LC_Hamma]

I use 3/4" QA1 or Aurora chromos rated for 28K min. mounted in dbl. shear, along w/ dust boots from Baker Precision Bearings (keeps out the grime) on both trail rigs. All steering connections are dbl. shear on both:

 

[Uncle Ben]

I use 3/4" QA1 or Aurora chromos rated for 28K min. mounted in dbl. shear, along w/ dust boots from Baker Precision Bearings (keeps out the grime) on both trail rigs. All steering connections are dbl. shear on both:

Curious how you get away with your panhard mounted opposite side of the frame from your steering box? Plus the angles of the two rods are not even close to parallel?

 

[Bret]

I'm sure there are others, but the stage II are rated to 28K lbs. there are several "F911" type bolt mfrs that have high strength hardware as well if that is a route you want to go.

Genuine Bullet Proof Rod End Specifications

Master Distributor for - F911 Products

 

[LC_Hamma]

Curious how you get away with your panhard mounted opposite side of the frame from your steering box? Plus the angles of the two rods are not even close to parallel?

Sometimes you have to design a suspension where the *common ways of doing things you've seen in magazines have to be altered to fit certain areas & that's the case in both here. One's been trail tested & works well, the is a current project, designed similar & I expect it to perform just as well ;p

 

[Uncle Ben]

Interesting! Kudo's for not following the herd but the geometry just seems wrong. Complex array of angles work in harmony from canceling each other out. Your system seems to have conflicts in that physical aspect. I might have to draw this up so I can understand. Thanks for the reply! Seems like the ultimate droop induced steering! Sorry for the hi-jack!

 

[LC_Hamma]

The main reason the panhard is revesed is the diff location. If I had a driver drop, then no problem. I have very limited space & that's the only way I could locate it. Your book may say the goemetry's all wrong & prolly is, but until you get it on the trail, you'lll notice no binding or restrictive movement ;p

 

[FLYINGLOW]

I use 3/4" QA1 or Aurora chromos rated for 28K min. mounted in dbl. shear, along w/ dust boots from Baker Precision Bearings (keeps out the grime) on both trail rigs. All steering connections are dbl. shear on both:

Thanks for the pics and info LC, I am strongly leaning toward using the 3/4" QA1 chromos. I was thinking of trying to come up with some sort of dust boot also, I wasn't sure if they were available.

Do you have any more pics of the way you mounted the double shear on your toyota high steer arm? I have something very simple in mind but can't go any farther until I get the rod ends.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Thanks for the pics and info LC, I am strongly leaning toward using the 3/4" QA1 chromos. I was thinking of trying to come up with some sort of dust boot also, I wasn't sure if they were available.

Do you have any more pics of the way you mounted the double shear on your toyota high steer arm? I have something very simple in mind but can't go any farther until I get the rod ends.

Those dust boots work great, kinda spendy at $15.00 each last I bought. I tried the 3/4" Seals-It dust seals & the rubber area seperates from the washer easily & it's not very durable if you park your rig outside for extended periods. Found an old pic of one of the LC steering arms. The pic doesn't show it but there's a gusset in between the plates:

 

[Mace]

steering arm bolts?

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Those dust boots work great, kinda spendy at $15.00 each last I bought. I tried the 3/4" Seals-It dust seals & the rubber area seperates from the washer easily & it's not very durable if you park your rig outside for extended periods. Found an old pic of one of the LC steering arms. The pic doesn't show it but there's a gusset in between the plates:

Thanks. I am assuming you used a modified stock arm? It won't work for me running leafs... I have a set of trail gear arms that I am going to use.