Some time ago there was ‘that’ thread, about different options on caster correction and what each did to the front suspension. I had done up a couple of examples on CAD, and I decided to sit down one day and do up three different options. 1st is stock arms w/ either caster bushings, or caster plates. 2nd is longer radius arms. 3rd is 4” drop brackets. So everyone knows where I started, I’ll list my assumptions.
1st assumption - when fully compressed w/ stock bumpstops, that the wheel is centered in the front wheel well.
2nd assumption - 4” lift
3rd assumption - 2” lower bumpstops
4th assumption - 4” up travel, 4” down Stock. Raising with 4" springs, and only lowering bumpstops 2" would add two inches of compression. So I've shown compressed as 6" and extended as 4".
5th assumption - I’m only looking at one side of the truck.
6th assumption - I'm in the process of changing the assumptions on the longer arms, based on what Slee has said below.
7th assumption – stock arms are 33" long - per post below from Slee, it's approximately 33" from pivot to axle center.
8th assumption – axle center is roughly at the same height as the pivot point of the stock arms, at stock height.
This is by no means an end all analysis. It’s just a curiosity on how the radius arm reacts to different changes, and how that effects the placement of the axle, and therefore the tire in relation to the wheel well opening. Seems many of us are trying to fit as big a tire with as little lift as possible, and thought this might help guide some of that activity. It’s been a while since I actually drew this up, so I may be a little off on some of my memories. If there is enough interest in alternate configurations (arms on top of axle), or someone has better info on starting dimensions, I’d be willing to modify with those dimensions / configurations.
This shouldn’t be a source of debate on what’s going on, that’s pretty simple geometry, an arc with a center point, and the computer rarely lies. The dimensions are based on distance from center of the wheel well. They’re not 100% accurate because of the assumptions, but like I said earlier – they’re directionally accurate as far as which configuration moves more fore and aft. Now, as far as debate on which is the best way of modifying the stock set-up, that’s inevitable! :0
Hopefully someone will find some use in this…
ATTENSION - the below are a little off due to the info. Slee was kind enough to supply. I will adjust accordingly, and replace the dwgs - might take a while for me to get to it though.
Edit: I corrected two of the three, the longer arms will take a little more to adjust.
Edit #3 or 5 : All three are now corrected.
1st assumption - when fully compressed w/ stock bumpstops, that the wheel is centered in the front wheel well.
2nd assumption - 4” lift
3rd assumption - 2” lower bumpstops
4th assumption - 4” up travel, 4” down Stock. Raising with 4" springs, and only lowering bumpstops 2" would add two inches of compression. So I've shown compressed as 6" and extended as 4".
5th assumption - I’m only looking at one side of the truck.
6th assumption - I'm in the process of changing the assumptions on the longer arms, based on what Slee has said below.
7th assumption – stock arms are 33" long - per post below from Slee, it's approximately 33" from pivot to axle center.
8th assumption – axle center is roughly at the same height as the pivot point of the stock arms, at stock height.
This is by no means an end all analysis. It’s just a curiosity on how the radius arm reacts to different changes, and how that effects the placement of the axle, and therefore the tire in relation to the wheel well opening. Seems many of us are trying to fit as big a tire with as little lift as possible, and thought this might help guide some of that activity. It’s been a while since I actually drew this up, so I may be a little off on some of my memories. If there is enough interest in alternate configurations (arms on top of axle), or someone has better info on starting dimensions, I’d be willing to modify with those dimensions / configurations.
This shouldn’t be a source of debate on what’s going on, that’s pretty simple geometry, an arc with a center point, and the computer rarely lies. The dimensions are based on distance from center of the wheel well. They’re not 100% accurate because of the assumptions, but like I said earlier – they’re directionally accurate as far as which configuration moves more fore and aft. Now, as far as debate on which is the best way of modifying the stock set-up, that’s inevitable! :0
Hopefully someone will find some use in this…
ATTENSION - the below are a little off due to the info. Slee was kind enough to supply. I will adjust accordingly, and replace the dwgs - might take a while for me to get to it though.
Edit: I corrected two of the three, the longer arms will take a little more to adjust.
Edit #3 or 5 : All three are now corrected.
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