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- #41
Do you have a link to the light strip you used?
Tko sliders install notes (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter highfructose
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I didn’t use a strip (wish I had) but the one I saw used something like this one. https://a.co/d/fzeWYpQ
I used these and had to make custom wiring harnesses. https://a.co/d/fQi5kxR
If I did it again, I’d go with the led strips. One on each side.
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Installed them this past weekend. Install was straight forward and easy. Cutting the plastic was the "hardest" part.
Close to pulling the trigger on these.
Comparing these to the victory, slee, metal tech, CBI options.
Seems like these are the simplest.
Is there support on ends of the sliders? (Closest to the wheels) seems like the Slee versions didn't have this and aren't strong enough.
Any concerns about strength vs the Metal Tech versions?
Comparing these to the victory, slee, metal tech, CBI options.
Seems like these are the simplest.
Is there support on ends of the sliders? (Closest to the wheels) seems like the Slee versions didn't have this and aren't strong enough.
Any concerns about strength vs the Metal Tech versions?
- Thread starter
- #45
No supports on the ends-just where your ahc cages bolt in.
I used a Jack to lift the vehicle from the rear of the slider and it didn’t flex enough to hit the body. Not sure if a hard drop would cause enough flex to put the slider into the body.
Question for those with these sliders:
How much clearance is there between the slider mounting arms (and the bottom AHC protection plate) and the actual AHC hardware? I'm wondering if you could adjust these sliders for a 1" body lift just by chopping the frame mounting plates off the arms and then welding them back on an inch lower. If anyone wants to crawl under their truck to investigate, I'd appreciate it
How much clearance is there between the slider mounting arms (and the bottom AHC protection plate) and the actual AHC hardware? I'm wondering if you could adjust these sliders for a 1" body lift just by chopping the frame mounting plates off the arms and then welding them back on an inch lower. If anyone wants to crawl under their truck to investigate, I'd appreciate it
Just varying levels of burly. You'll have to decide where you fall on the burly scale.
The Metaltech4x4 have the most attachment points to the rails, the most feet to the rail, and the widest distance between the front and back foot. They weigh the most by a wide margin. These items don't have utility to all users, nor should they. They have proven to be overkill for my adventure build. I don't regret it though, they're proper.
(I am referring to the LX570 model)
I was a test fit vehicle for this product so my opinion is biased.
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Thank you grinchy that's so true.
I don't see myself doing anything where I'm dropping the full weight of the truck onto the sliders very frequently...and it seems like these would provide protection from the occasional opps which would otherwise damage bodywork.
I'm in! just bought a pair.
I don't see myself doing anything where I'm dropping the full weight of the truck onto the sliders very frequently...and it seems like these would provide protection from the occasional opps which would otherwise damage bodywork.
I'm in! just bought a pair.
If you use a strip like the one you linked, it should be fairly easy to tie to a switch that you can turn on at will, correct? Or is it not, because the wire is down line from the switch activated only when the door is open?
Good point or suggestion. I have these sliders and have the one inch body lift getting installed over the next few weeks. Will ask the guy doing the work to look into this option. He is a fabricator as well and should have the ability to say if that is possible.Question for those with these sliders:
How much clearance is there between the slider mounting arms (and the bottom AHC protection plate) and the actual AHC hardware? I'm wondering if you could adjust these sliders for a 1" body lift just by chopping the frame mounting plates off the arms and then welding them back on an inch lower. If anyone wants to crawl under their truck to investigate, I'd appreciate it
I can take some pictures of it later today too.
Thanks!
I used the original plug that goes active when the door is open or when you walk near the car with the keys in your pocket and the truck is locked.
I was wondering if you can wire in a switch between that plug and the light or if you have to cut the plug, or if there is another solution. Electrical is not my thing at all. I would like to figure out how to wire those up to be on during night or early morning trail runs.
You would have to run a separate switched hot wire to the plug and parallel it with the existing auto powered wire. You would need diodes on both hot sides to keep them from backfeeding each other if you want to keep the auto powered wire that comes on when you open the door or walk by with a remote.
I own that I forgot to take proper photos underneath. I will ask the guy working on the bumpers to take some and for his thought. Here are some from when I got the skids out on that may show some of why you’re looking for.
Thank you. Right now don’t have running board lights on at all, and the lights from the mirrors work well enough for those purposes. For ease of installation, just running a switch before the plug, would work? This is if I only wanted the ability to cut them on when wheeling in the dark.
Bud Built. Sprayed them with satin clear enamel from rustoleum. The front skid is their TRD Grey.
That should be easy then. Just a few options you will have to consider. You can cut the connector off the existing auto powered wire and use it to connect to the light strip with the other side of the connector.
Your can buy a separate waterproof connector and save the factory connector for future use. Regardless, your would just splice your new switched power pair into one side of the connector, and one side to the light switch and your golden.
Awesome, thank you!
