What are you working on? (4 Viewers)

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Heat expands it
Cold contracts it

It’s more trying to understand the direction of the forces at play when it expands and contracts, trying to predict it and compensate for it.
 
It’s more trying to understand the direction of the forces at play when it expands and contracts, trying to predict it and compensate for it.

And there in lays the fun.
 
Paperclip PS cooler bit the dust ... inexpensive replacement

Drilled and tapped holes for mounting. Please excuse everything being covered in oil ... at least it isn't rusty underneath.
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Mounted
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Was going to run some hose through the holes in the cross-member, but scrapped that idea
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Did my 3rd and final PS pump swap
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Took a chance and will see how it pans out ... sonic cleaned the alternator

Before:
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After ... still spins just fine. Will see if it still lasts after things are back together.
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Still some muck in the top. I didn't orient it facing upward in the cleaner, that may help. May just leave it like this atm, already so much better than it was.
 
Quick lunch-break test fit today - Off with the old, smashed flare...drilled the rivers to reveal a nice, super clean fender cut by the PO. :hillbilly:

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Fit up the new flare - mostly to check it for flatness in relation to the body. I’m mostly happy with it aside from the front leg. Any other gaps will likely be absorbed by the fender welting that will go behind it.
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This is the worst of the warp I haven’t been able to bend out so far:

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It’s about 1/8”...too much but I think if I mount everything up on 2x4’s with a “gap” in that center section, I’ll be able to pull it down some...I can probably cut a couple tacs as well to help.
 
Nice job!

Those things look really beefy!
 
looks good send it.

you should move the rear axle back 3/4" or so., it would look better in the opening.
it's easy enough to do.

I'm really torn on moving the axle. I know the hardcore wheeler types like the added wheelbase and centered rear tires, but the goal for this truck was always light wheeling under a mostly stock look guise. I assume moving the axle means de-riveting the spring hangers and welding them farther back? Any other options (like flipping the springs or something that are less permanent?

Ultimately some beefier tires might help fill in some of the space as well. I really like these KM3's - but these 7.5R16's (which should measure around 32") actually measure out to about 30.5."

Nice job!

Those things look really beefy!

Thanks! I can't take credit for the design - Dave Gore at 4PLus cut these for me. I can only take credit for the bad job shaping and the invariably bad job welding coming up ;)
 
I'm really torn on moving the axle. I know the hardcore wheeler types like the added wheelbase and centered rear tires, but the goal for this truck was always light wheeling under a mostly stock look guise. I assume moving the axle means de-riveting the spring hangers and welding them farther back? Any other options (like flipping the springs or something that are less permanent?

Ultimately some beefier tires might help fill in some of the space as well. I really like these KM3's - but these 7.5R16's (which should measure around 32") actually measure out to about 30.5."



Thanks! I can't take credit for the design - Dave Gore at 4PLus cut these for me. I can only take credit for the bad job shaping and the invariably bad job welding coming up ;)
Moving a solid axle a small amount is easy. You have multiple holes in the spring perch that line up with the pin in the leaf pack. Hardly even a 6 pack job.
 
yeap a new hole in the perch, easy as pie. i forget how much it can actually go, it's a solid 0.75 maybe even a full inch.
i have mine moved back.
 
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Moving a solid axle a small amount is easy. You have multiple holes in the spring perch that line up with the pin in the leaf pack. Hardly even a 6 pack job.
yeap a new hole in the perch, easy as pie. i forget how much it can actually go, it's a solid 0.75 maybe even a full inch.
i have mine moved back.

Wow that’s incredibly easy. A lift and u-bolt flip are hopefully in my future - that seems like a good time to do that.
 

I guess that probably doesn’t do anything for shackle angle really, the springs are in the same place, the axle just sits farther back on them? I imagine that changes the shock positioning a bit. Any effect on ride/road manners or is it basically unnoticeable?
 
I guess that probably doesn’t do anything for shackle angle really, the springs are in the same place, the axle just sits farther back on them? I imagine that changes the shock positioning a bit. Any effect on ride/road manners or is it basically unnoticeable?
Road manners? It's 50 years old. ;)
 
if anything i would guess it changes(soften) the spring rate, as the load is further from the fixed point....a longer wb takes road bumps better...dont know if an inch longer is enough to make a difference though..
 
So I broke down..and got my first "mod" for the 75...I've been rocking an oem center console for decades...finally got to the point where I want something more.
I ordered a basic tuffy center console....and now get to wait a month before it ships.
 
I ponied up a bunch of money for a retaining wall, delivered today to continue phase 20-billion of the stupid shed project (can you tell I’m over this)?

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Naturally, no sooner had they swiped my credit card than my Mazda 3 “reliable beater” threw a low tire pressure light. The car hasn’t held air in one tire for about a year (very slow leak) so I figured “no big deal I’ll just top it off” only to find it completely 100% flat this afternoon. No big deal, I’ll plug whatever nail I picked up yesterday and move on, right?

WRONG

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No idea how this happened or how it held enough air to get me 3 miles home yesterday - but it looks like the Mazda is getting new tires unexpectedly. Hooray...

In the short term, no big deal, I’ll just toss on the spare and hobble it to a tire shop.

WRONG AGAIN!
For reasons I can’t explain since I don’t recall filling my trunk with water - my spare has rusted badly and the metal has started to delaminate and fuse with the trunk insulation.

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The FJ40 has no speedometer/odometer and 1 fender flare - but it’s on the verge of taking over reliable beater status.

I’ve got most of the parts to address what ails the Mazda, but the list of deferred maintenance is long. Almost 13 years old and 150,000 miles - the car doesn’t really owe me anything. At this point it needs:

1 wheel (one is badly bent and leaking air)
1 spare tire wheel
AC system overhaul (compressor dead, condenser destroyed)
Power steering hoses
Serpentine belt
SERP belt tensioner
4 new tires
MAF sensor
Rear shocks
Windshield wipers
Suspect transmission wishbone mount

Top top it all off the rust in the rocker-to-body pinch weld has gotten bad enough the weld collapsed under the Jack stand.

I already have 3/4 of the parts list above I just need to tackle it...but if I didn’t, I’d be car shopping...

If I can get 2-3 more years out of it before it rusts out or finally eats the clutch, I will be happy. Really can’t expect much more of that, it isn’t a Toyota.
 
So I broke down..and got my first "mod" for the 75...I've been rocking an oem center console for decades...finally got to the point where I want something more.
I ordered a basic tuffy center console....and now get to wait a month before it ships.

You won't be sorry - I have the cruiser crap version but it's very similar. It's a huge improvement and one of those "how it should have been from the factory" things...
 

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