I just got tired of the Drive-To-Reverse Clunk: After investigation and with OEM diff bushings all around, the clunk is still present. Next was the CV axles: I installed chinese (carquest) CV's 14K miles ago. Issues I found with these CV's:
FREE-PLAY at
(A) 2-3 degrees just inside outboard joint
(B) 2-3 degrees just inside inboard joint
(C) 2-4 degrees at the inboard splines
No wonder the clunk was still present.
Most cost effective remedy:
Generally, the OEM inboard and outboard CV's (except boots) are good for life of the truck, but the problem is the splines at the outboard joint.
So, I bought OEM Shaft assembly 43460-69145 and it comes with everything you need to rebuild an axle with your existing OEM inner joint
Tools used:
Pick tool, flat screwdriver, puller, lock ring pliers, hammer to lock the boot clips and paper towels
3rd picture shows the removal of the clip in the old (OEM) CV inboard joint
FREE-PLAY at
(A) 2-3 degrees just inside outboard joint
(B) 2-3 degrees just inside inboard joint
(C) 2-4 degrees at the inboard splines
No wonder the clunk was still present.
Most cost effective remedy:
Generally, the OEM inboard and outboard CV's (except boots) are good for life of the truck, but the problem is the splines at the outboard joint.
So, I bought OEM Shaft assembly 43460-69145 and it comes with everything you need to rebuild an axle with your existing OEM inner joint
Tools used:
Pick tool, flat screwdriver, puller, lock ring pliers, hammer to lock the boot clips and paper towels
3rd picture shows the removal of the clip in the old (OEM) CV inboard joint
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