Early steering box rebuild

[splitshot]

I'm picking up a builder that Tim Hill has laying around this afternoon just so I don't put my rig out of commission.

What options do I have for parts sources?

I'm sure I'm going to have a few more questions when I dive into this thing.

 

[DSRTRDR]

presumably, a roller set and rebuild set can be had from Specter - last I checked it cost like $180 altogether

we recently rebuilt an early box that I had picked up from Tim Hill 2 years ago or so (the stuff in there was a vile mix of gear oil, water, grease and god knows what else ) we disassembled as far as we could, cleaned everything, took out shims to tighten it (keep the shims in a safe place, they are unobtanium) and put it together again - there are really only 6 parts or so to it, unless they have significant wear, you may not need the rebuild kit (used parts, probably to be had from mark's Offroad - just before Cruise Moab, he replaced his manual steering in the blue 45 with powersteering)

we put grease in there; (90W leaks, grease leaks at least less ;p)

all the while, I heard
"this is turd polishing - get power steering"
"this is turd polishing - get power steering"
"this is turd polishing - get power steering"
"this is turd polishing - get power steering"
"this is turd polishing - get power steering"
"this is turd polishing - get power steering"
"this is turd polishing - get power steering"
"this is turd polishing - get power steering"
"this is turd polishing - get power steering"
"this is turd polishing - get power steering"


so we replaced this rebuilt column for the original column in my truck

I was told, if I were even thinking of rebuilding that spare now, it would be "extreme psycho turd polishing"

 

[Tools R Us]

It's turd polishing,,,, get power steering!;p

That said if your really into turd polishing, the bearings are probably easily available from the local bearing house.

 

[Tools R Us]

Claudia cheats, but your not as good looking, so her type of power steering probably isn't available for you!

 

[splitshot]

Well, I'm going to polish turds for a while longer, how else am I going to keep these skinny arms in shape


Other than the black goo inside, it doesn't look too bad (yet). Does look like a pain in the arse to get these pitman's off..(I've heard of people breaking pullers doing it).

 

[DSRTRDR]

oh, I forgot, the seal is the same size as a front axle seal

between $2.50 and $4 at any parts store

 

[cruiserjunktion]

I rebuilt mine w/o too much issue.

Moved the shims and reused the bearings.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/45844-my-new-pair-fjs-3.html


see post 125

 

[splitshot]

oh, I forgot, the seal is the same size as a front axle seal

between $2.50 and $4 at any parts store

Thanks Claudia, what are the odds that I will just need to remove a shim or two and replace the seal? Could I be that lucky? This may be cheeper than I thought

I rebuilt mine w/o too much issue.

Moved the shims and reused the bearings.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/45844-my-new-pair-fjs-3.html


see post 125

Nice thread! Thanks for the link

 

[splitshot]

I started pulling things apart yesterday and think I'm screwed on this box. After pulling the pitman, I cleaned up everything and the red flag went up when I looked at the sector shaft adjustment bolt (look at how far it was screwed in). Also inside, I only found one washer and no shims for the sector shaft. I think this box has been pilfered for it's shims.

What do you think?

 

[splitshot]

Here's a pic of the sector adjustment bolt on the box that is in the truck for comparison.

Just checked sor, they do carry the shims! .50mm (4 req'd) at $3~ ea. The roller set is $87~ Any pointers on how to tell if I need a new roller other than some obvious wear?

Guess I'll dive into this a little further and see what turns up.

 

[DSRTRDR]

I think this box has been pilfered for it's shims.

your third pic shows a shim

I have no shims left in the rebuilt box, and there are no shims in the old box that we took out (Michael and I had rebuilt that 3 years ago and took the shims out)

based on my experience, it is unlikely you will need new shims

look for wear and unevenness on all parts.....

 

[splitshot]

Here's some more polisher pics. Check out the casting flaws on the roller gear. The upper and lower bearings are in suprisingly good shape, there is some very minor pitting on the lower bearing race, but don't think it's enough to be concerned with.
The roller bearing is another story, I have somewhere between a 32nd to a 16th of an inch of up/down slop and a fair amount of side to side wobble.
Am I correct in asuming that if I replace the roller, quite possibly I may need some shims to compensate for this lack of slop to prevent bind up?
Also, if you see anything I'm overlooking, please pipe in, your .02 is greatly appreciated

 

[splitshot]

Couple of the worm gear.

 

[ChaseTruck]

Try and adjust the side play on the rollers by tightening the nut. That should affect the up/down slop as well.

 

[splitshot]

Thanks Michael, good idea, I'll give it a try..

 

[Tools R Us]

X2, that's what we did, worked well.

Your bearings look better than Claudia's. How much end play does the worm shaft have? We sanded the end plate gasket on the belt sander to add preload. If those bearings have any play, it will allow the worm to move and that along with the roller play will account for some/all of the excessive adjustment in the adjuster bolt.

Shoot pix of the inside of the cap with the adjuster bolt and the shaft end where it touches.

 

[splitshot]

Will do, but it's going to have to wait till next wednesday,( I'm playing chaperone for a bunch honor roll students at Roosevelt for a few days).

 

[splitshot]

The worm shaft has no play at all
I tightened up the roller (the nut was loose), I think I need a small spotweld to keep that from backing off, correct?

There is a fair amount of slop in the bronze sector bushings and lots of pitting on the smaller one.

Here's some pics.

 

[Tools R Us]

The worm shaft has no play at all

You want some preload on those bearings, we slightly sanded the gasket on the end plate to tighten it.

I tightened up the roller (the nut was loose), I think I need a small spotweld to keep that from backing off, correct?

I just staked it with a center punch.

There is a fair amount of slop in the bronze sector bushings and lots of pitting on the smaller one.

The bushing has to have some play, even when new, unless it a huge amount of play I wouldn't worry about it. I would remove the gasket from the adjuster cover to move it in slightly and give slightly more adjustment, for final assembly seal with RTV. Then back off the adjuster, put a couple of drops of oil on the bearings, assemble, adjust it and see what you have.

 

[splitshot]

Kevin, you are saying what I want to hear. I might be able to do the whole job and only purchase a seal and a firewall boot.

Stay tuned for further developments...