Another audio thread mixed in with a diff breather hose - yup

[tlin]

I found out that my '92 doesn't even have the lousy paper cone subwoofer that so many folks understandably whine about and replace. I've already replaced the door speakers with Pioneers (front and back) - currently still running the stock HU. Front and rear tweeters (dash and rear headliner mounts) still connected, FYI. So, need some decent bass as well as a different head unit (HU).

Subwoofer
Lots of good build threads for enclosures; don't recall but pretty cool bracket for stock location mount (but free-air solution requiring amp and speaker purchase - starts to add up quickly) - made by Hog something or other - darn nice piece but not where I'm headed; this is darn impressive for DIY but waaaay too much work for me.

Frikkin LOVE this so I bought this. I'm lining the stock rear location with GTMat (better high-temp resistance than others - gets a tad bit warm in Arizona, bought/used it with the Pioneer door speaker replacements last year) - pics below.

Head Unit

1. Gotta have a remote, support Pandora, rear USB, bluetooth optional
2. GOTTA LOOK STOCK - color is important (picky picky picky)

Q's

1. HU #1 - I want a STOCK look (backlight color in particular) - recommendations? I know it's subjective but if you've got a strong opinion on one, please share (I'm very aware of the Scion HU options). I'd seen a Nakamichi mentioned in one thread that looked outstanding but was $500 so....naaah. I'm also aware of Crutchfield - none of those really jump out at me that fits my vehicle but I do appreciate knowing what would fit if I elect to use them.
2. HU #2 - Do Scion HU's allow for a line/RCA out to connect to the powered Kenwood subwoofer I bought?
3. Rear tweeters - anyone replaced those with 4" x 6"'s or 6" x 9"'s?? Seems most folks simply get rid of those speakers entirely - if there's reason or a success story out there replacing with something that complements the door speakers I've bought would love to hear it.
4. Dash 4" tweeter - seems good to get rid of that one as well to avoid any noise cancellation given its proximity to the door speakers. Agree?
5. First pic below - what the heck is that little black box?? I need to clip/lengthen the single green wire with the black stripe that leaves it and crosses over to the other side of the truck to help get that entire wiring mess pushed out of the way to accommodate the woofer. Any problems with a wire splice with that??
6. [STRIKE]Also in the first pic - that drain hose that extends down underneath the vehicle - any reason I shouldn't use this same idea to run my soon-to-be extended rear diff breather right alongside that?? Seems like a great spot for that - am I stupid??[/STRIKE] Going a different route based on feedback elsewhere.

Thx!

 

[landcrshr]

This was super cheap, and easy:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/778718-stealth-cheap-subwoofer.html

But FWIW, if you mount an amp in the rear QP, make sure your window doesn't leak!

Oh, and in response to Q#4: Strongly agree.

 

[Hornd]

Curious what you had in box, Rubbermaid and Sub cost wise?
I have a basscube in my car and it is an impressive all in one unit that can be quickly detached, like when I go camping.
The enclosure is designed to fit the speaker so it has very little distortion.
I have the 8" model which I picked up for $200. I believe is is 150 Watts RMS

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_204BT8DVC/Bazooka-BT8024DVC.html?tp=112&awkw=25834077985&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=6655932985&awdv=c

 

[tlin]

I have a basscube in my car and it is an impressive all in one unit that can be quickly detached, like when I go camping.

I'm a fan of the bazookas but need to maintain 3rd row seats for multi-kid outings. Tried getting a buddy to give me his old one he hasn't used for a few years but he got stubborn for some reason....weird

This was super cheap, and easy:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/778718-stealth-cheap-subwoofer.html

But FWIW, if you mount an amp in the rear QP, make sure your window doesn't leak!

Oh, and in response to Q#4: Strongly agree.

Awesome! My kind of thinking - not for me due to space constraints but I like it! I'm with you on the water - looked all over and couldn't find even a hint of moisture/water penetration. Checked everywhere before I started applying the GTMat.

Sub shipped from Amazon today, hoping to get to the install next weekend. thx guys...

 

[landcrshr]

Curious what you had in box, Rubbermaid and Sub cost wise? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_204BT8...077985&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=6655932985&awdv=c

From the OP of that thread:

Action Packer - $5.00 from the thrift store.
Particle board shelving - Free (dumpster find).
8" long-throw woofer - $27.00 www.mcmelectronics.com
Connectors - About $15.00

 

[NLXTACY]

Subwoofer
Lots of good build threads for enclosures; don't recall but pretty cool bracket for stock location mount (but free-air solution requiring amp and speaker purchase - starts to add up quickly) - made by Hog something or other - darn nice piece but not where I'm headed; this is darn impressive for DIY but waaaay too much work for me.

http://www.wholehogtech.com/FJ80_products.html
Crazy simple to add in but I have found it to be a little limiting. I'm not an audiophile but I understand the reason for the boxed in enclosure for the sub. I'm just not sure I will go that route.

Head Unit
Gotta have a remote, support Pandora, rear USB, bluetooth optional GOTTA LOOK STOCK - color is important (picky picky picky)

That will be harder. I have the Pioneer doube din HU and it has everything you mentioned plus more. I'm in love with it but its spendy and doesn't look OEM.

Q's
HU #2 - Do Scion HU's allow for a line/RCA out to connect to the powered Kenwood subwoofer I bought?

Trying to remember but I believe they do.

Dash 4" tweeter - seems good to get rid of that one as well to avoid any noise cancellation given its proximity to the door speakers. Agree?

I kept mine in but I will be re-purposing those for the CB/Ham

First pic below - what the heck is that little black box?? I need to clip/lengthen the single green wire with the black stripe that leaves it and crosses over to the other side of the truck to help get that entire wiring mess pushed out of the way to accommodate the woofer. Any problems with a wire splice with that??

I believe its a trailer towing control box for the turn signals/hazards.

Also in the first pic - that drain hose that extends down underneath the vehicle - any reason I shouldn't use this same idea to run my soon-to-be extended rear diff breather right alongside that?? Seems like a great spot for that - am I stupid??

Do it up!

 

[tlin]

Adios audio!

Progress/more Q's/rambling.....

1. Sub arrived, trial hook-up and it definitely makes a difference. Not anything to make you go OMG but for such a small footprint and reasonable $$, very impressed.
2. Custom brackes being fabbed, pics tomorrow of mount. My high-tech garage shop has proven most capable....(translation, grabbed old stuff - bent it, cut it, glued it, etc. and seems to work just fine).
3. Q1 - I want to run wiring from the sub to both the arm-rest console AND the HU. Before I start tearing everything else apart, does removing the front passenger seat and running wiring underneath it make the most sense?
4. Q2 - I need to find a lead tied to the ignition switch ACC setting to auto-switch the amp on. Where's the easiest spot to find one? I'm sure my FSM has a wiring diagram but would prefer some "wiring for dummies" or "been there, done that" input.

I also ordered a new HU. JVC "mechless" unit (no CD player). Going higher-tech than I originally wanted to but looking at entirely too many HU's available today and I just wasn't all that thrilled what what I was finding. Won't be here for a few business days....more on that later.

muchas gracias!

 

[JCruse]

I was just looking at that black box today, it says something like "tail light adapter" on it.